I seem to have an issue with a slight miss under acceleration throughout the entire power band. I have changed the plugs, and found #4 to be slightly darker up the threads than the other three plugs. New cap, rotor and plug wires are in the mail, but I'd still like to look into this and learn more about diagnostic capability of the Hondata ECU. I would like to know if anyone can help walk me through some diagnostics using my Hondata S300. I know very little about the Management program, and would like to ensure that I do not make matters worse while trying to determine exactly what the issue is, as well as learn more about how to make my way around manager. Thanks for any help!

b18c1 block - sleeved
gsr head - alaniz street p/p, dual springs, valves
itr cams
9.7 cp pistons - 83mm
skunk intake
itr distributor
cai

 

right track, new cap, rotor and plug wires or coil/ignitor. Youre putting some power down, i like this kit. Honda/Acura Modified Cap & Rotor Kit, External Ignition Module and Coil. Keep coil and ignitor cool.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOLOG...Q5fAccessories

 

Thanks for the reply! It just threw a code 9 for the cylinder position sensor, and I ran a diagnostic showing that the timing during idle was 20 degrees @ approx 850 RPM. Tomorrow it gets the timing light and a TDC check to see if it may have jumped a tooth on the crank. I think the timing would have been more advanced than 4 degrees if this was the case though, right?

 

Don't run aftermarket ignition products. Run OEM honda coils, plug wires, ignition control modules, caps & rotors. We make 600+ on these oem components without issues!

 

For the original poster:
Do you have another distributor assembly you can try ?

 

Thanks for the reply. I order all OEM parts for my ignition. This distributor is recently replaced - OEM ITR, but I have an extra coil somewhere, which is slightly used and been hiding in the garage. No ignitor. I put a fresh Cap on today, but am waiting for the rotor and plug wires to arrive Monday.

When I pulled the Cap off, there was a weird bit of disintigrate plastic along the bottom. The rotor is still in one piece, and the rest of the assembly looked normal. Any ideas?

BTW... mtber is a great seller. I've purchased two ecu in the past. One for a b20 swap and one for a b18 swap. Both were spot on. Very happy!

 

Wait until you install your new ignition components & get back to us.

Thanks for the comments on being a great seller :-)

 

upon closer inspection it appears that the intake cam has skipped one tooth, maybe... Skunk adjustable cam gear marks are slightly out of line @ tdc. Thanks for the help! components in tomorrow, so i'll be back w/ any updates.

thanks again!

Jay

 

New cap, rotor and plugs on today. still threw the same code. ignition reading on datalog at idle was roaming around 16 - 18. As far as I can tell this is accurately matched to the timing marks. in the dark it was hard to read the white timing marks on the ati damper, so i'll double check tomorrow. The plastic in the cap was from the plastic guard. The rotor screw had backed out and clipped the overhang. Since the cel came on there is a slightly shudder when initiating light acceleration. replace with new distributor housing, or the entire distributor assembly?

 

new distributor housing with same ignitor and coil, new cap and rotor... reran timing belt and realigned the cam gears... runs like a charm! No more code 9! Big thanks to John! I'll be up to for a tune in no time!!

 

Glad to hear everything is on track now!

 

Thanks for all the help! One last issue is this...

I've searched ht and google...

After the car reaches Operating Temp and only at OT, the throttle will bog or cut out unless under heavy acceleration. This is followed by an idle drop to the +/- 400 range when the clutch is depressed or the vehicle is in neutral.

I have also noticed some dimming in the lights unless under acceleration. I have not checked whether this is battery or alternator yet though, and am just wondering if this may be a related issue or a second issue as the bogging.

Thanks for all the help!

 

Pulled the plugs... #4 is dark, not oily, but dark all the way up the threads. 1 - 3 are all nice and even w/ one another. So am back to the S300 walk thru to check if I may have a plugged injector.

Now the question is how to localize the data stream to that one injector and verify that it is operating correctly. I'd like to do this before getting into fuel rail removal and all that good stuff.

Thanks all

Jay

edit: Found the issue - pulsing air from underneath the 4 cylinder plenum - between block and head - head gasket/head stud issue.

question: the block has a time sert in it. is it possible to consider a retorque of the head stud until i can get to the tuner or should i fold at this point and let it be till the pros can handle it?

Observation: I appreciate all the help. I wish I would have thought to check the most obvious things first. Noob learning!