I found a spark plug replacement guide, but I really stink at fixing things. This sounds like a pretty simple procedure though, which basically anyone should be able to do, am I right? Is there some diy guide with pictures anywhere?

 

It's very easy on Integras.

Just pull the plug wires off, loosen the plugs with a 5/8" spark plug socket on an extension, and pull the old plugs out. I prefer to use a regular 5/8" socket and pull the plugs out with a telescoping magnet.

Check the gap on the new plugs with a wire loop-type spark plug gapper tool (NOT the round disc type - not as accurate). Some plugs like NGK come pre-gapped, but I like to check them anyway. Find the required gap on the sticker under your hood. Drop each plug into each hole, and tighten. NGK plugs list how far to tighten the plugs on an aluminum head, and also give torque specs. I think it's somewhere between 12-20 ft-lbs.

 

Sounds like I need some extra tools then. I don't have a torque wrench or a gapper tool. I don't even know what that last one is...

Also, I was looking at new spark plugs at nopi.com, but could not find any NGK ones for the LS. They had plenty for GSR's and GS's. Would GS ones fit and work on an LS? If not, which ones would work on an LS?

 

It's just a little round tool with several wire loops sticking out of the edge of varying thickness. Find one at any auto parts store for a couple bucks.

You don't really HAVE to have a torque wrench. I think most plug boxes will tell you to tighten it like 1/8 turn, or 1/4 turn or whatever after the plug seats in the head.

 

I edited my post after you replied, thanks for you help by the way. Any idea on the spark plugs question? Would the GS DOCH ones work on my LS?

 

your local parts store should carry ngk spark plugs kragens, autozome, pepboys, napa, etc all carry oem ngk spark plugs.

 

hey man it's really simple. I have no idea if the spark plugs are interchangeable i think they are but the gaps are different. (Don't take this as fact i'm only about 50% sure) It's really simple, and if you can't handle this it would be a good idea to pick up a new hobby or just pay someone to work on your car. Glad to see you're trying tho. Good luck

 

Dont need all those tools, Can just use a rachet with 5/8" or 16mm socket and extention then stick some bluetack down in the socket so the spark plug sticks so you can pull it out. Or you can use needle nose plyers to pull it out.


Go down to a store that sells car parts and give the help attendee the details of your engine. For me it would be "Honda b16a" and they look it up in a book. Some places keep the book in the open so you can look it up your self. Better if you have another car to use or youll have to leave your car 2 hours. Its best to change plugs while the engine is cold so the thread isnt expanded.

Then just undo the old ones and remove them then stick the new ones in. Dont over tighten them. I hold the rachet up where the socket goes on end. Then do it up about as tight as I do a bottle lid up.

 

All GS,LS,RS spark plugs are the same. You can also use GSR spark plugs perfectly fine although they are one step cooler than the LS/GS spark plugs.

Make sure when you are tightening the spark plugs back in DO NOT go too tight or else you will strip the threads in the aluminum head.

 

Thanks guys! I think I'll go buy some and give it a try. What's the worst that can happen? I over tighten the spark plug and have to buy a new one?

 

Oh boy lol. just make sure the plugs go in straight not on an angle(which its damn hard to do lol) and you'll be fine.

 

As mentioned earlier, you will strip the threads in your head $$$$ not the 4 dollar plug.

 

Sounds like the pre-stages of an epic failure. Have you ever ran a lawn mower or a weed wacker?




its really not that hard, pull the plugs, get your new plugs and gap them and then install them. just tighten them down snug and then give them a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, I use a 3/8 ratchet so I dont over tighten them.

 

"all those tools"? I just said to use a 3/8 ratchet, extension w/ 5/8" socket, and a plug gapper tool, and a magnet to pull the old plugs out if you don't use a spark plug socket.

B18C1 and B18B plugs are NOT the same. B18B plugs are longer than B18C1 plugs.

My recommendation is to go with NGK V-power plugs. They run less than $8 a set at O'Reiley's auto parts. For B18B engines, ask for NGK ZFR5F-11 plugs.

 

You really dont even need the magnet. i just push the wire back down on it and pull it out. If you was really unsure about gapping them then I bet the guys at the parts store would gap them for you. Alot of the times the plugs come pregapped any ways.

 

just go to pepboys and buy some bosch calibrated spark plugs, put some anti-sieze paste on the screw part of the spark plug and screw it up, but be careful not to touch the tip of the spark plug with anything as you are putting your sparkplugs in

 

Do NOT use Bosch spark plugs on Hondas. I can't tell you how many reports I've heard of Honda engines taking badly to Bosch spark plugs.

Stick with NGK or Denso.

 

When I had my GSR, I used NGK stockers or nothing. They served their purpose better than aftermarket, not cheap though.

 

That's why I use copper-core NGK plugs. Yes they have a relatively short life of only 10K-15K miles, but they're so cheap, and so easy to change that IMHO platinum plugs just aren't worth it. Copper core conducts current the best, also.

NGK V-power is where it's at.

 

why pay $20+ a plug at a dealer when you can get the same plug for about $5 at your local parts store. V-Power FTW!!

 

Here's how to do it:

make sure you have; plugs(NGK Iridium I use), 5/8 spark plug socket(has black rubber in it), 6' drive extension, torque wrench(yes you should use this), anti-seize...don't need gap tool because when they ship they have cardboard shrouding to protect them from their gap changing

Steps:
-Connect your tools lol...ratchet to drive extension and extension to 5/8
-Remove plugs...righty tighty lefty loosey...they come up with the socket once all the way unthreaded
- Place blooddrop size of anti-seize on your finger and grab a new spark plug...twist the beggining threads of it circular on your finger with anti-seize and make sure it's IN the threads...not too much
-Place spark plug in socket, correct way: threads and electrode visible
-Place spark plug in hole as slow as your hand can move and with electrode not touching ANYTHING...if you use the right 5/8 you will be fine when the time comes...
-Once it's sitting in place in the head...turn the extension as if you were loosining the plug so it "sits" in threads more flushly in case it's not...then immediately turn in righty tighty by finger tips on extension
-Make sure your torque wrench is set to tighten and to 16 ft. lbs. and tighten until it clicks at you

LET US KNOW IF YOU HAVE ISSUES AND?OR IF IT WORKS OUT.

 

Shoot, the V-powers I get for my GS-R, BKR6E-11's, are about $1.25 each at O'Reiley's. I usually have to adjust the gap slightly because they're a little tight when I first take them out of the box.

Also, I've never used anti-seize on spark plugs before, and I've changed plugs 10+ times over the past 180K miles, and never had a problem. But I change my plugs every 10K-15K miles. If you run platinum or iridium plugs and leave them in for 60K-100K miles, then anti-seize would probably be a good idea.

 

Use anti-seize. The extra 4 seconds it takes could save you HUGE headache if you ever broke off a spark plug in the head... Had an Iridium get stuck in the head and had only been in about 15k miles. Long story short, in addition to 4 new spark plugs, I also have a new head gasket! yay!

 

Really? i havent had any problems with them to this day

 

Will do. Hopefully I'll get around to doing it today, or tomorrow.