brake pad installation problem
car 95 gsr
pads: aem
the right side is put on but the left side is impossible so far as it seems
the pads keep popping off the calipar as we try to hammer it into the rotor and ended up chipping a bit of the pad....
so help anyone? what is the diagnosis? this seems like i might have to change my whole brake system i.e) rotors, pads, lines etc etc...
pads: aem
the right side is put on but the left side is impossible so far as it seems
the pads keep popping off the calipar as we try to hammer it into the rotor and ended up chipping a bit of the pad....
so help anyone? what is the diagnosis? this seems like i might have to change my whole brake system i.e) rotors, pads, lines etc etc...
PICS would be awsome on this one. Im puzzeled on how your chipping the brake pads hammering the calipler back on the rotor. The pads should already resting in place and the caliper should just slide back over the pads and need little force to put back in. So i have to ask is this your first timing doing brake pads if it is ill walk you thru it otherwise im a little lost on why your having this problem again pics would be awsome. lmk
we are taking a break for a day, it is MY first time but my friend has been doing brake pads for years.
i dont know why the pads dont slide into the left rotor disc, and it got chipped because while hammer it probably popped out again =\
no i dont have a brake pad compressor, does auto zone rent one?
i dont know why the pads dont slide into the left rotor disc, and it got chipped because while hammer it probably popped out again =\
no i dont have a brake pad compressor, does auto zone rent one?
Im a c-clamp man myself make sure that the piston is pushed all the way into the caliper. It shouldnt be this hard either something is wrong or your doing something wrong.
Remove the caliper push the piston back into caliper then rempve the old pads clean the rotors and set the new pads in place (if they dont stay inplace by ythem selfs you should be able to hold them with your hand till you can slip the caliper over the pads enough to hold them in place) next slide the caliper back over the pads and install the bolts be sure to pack a little grease in that rubber boot.
Remove the caliper push the piston back into caliper then rempve the old pads clean the rotors and set the new pads in place (if they dont stay inplace by ythem selfs you should be able to hold them with your hand till you can slip the caliper over the pads enough to hold them in place) next slide the caliper back over the pads and install the bolts be sure to pack a little grease in that rubber boot.
i also have part of the frame showing cuz i have rubbed out the black lumpy stuff ( not the liner ) what should i do to protect the frame from rust?
i also have the subframe showing from tire rubbing... what should i do about that? the liner is split... i plan to hammer it but what should i place to cover it up? tape?
i also have the subframe showing from tire rubbing... what should i do about that? the liner is split... i plan to hammer it but what should i place to cover it up? tape?
Trending Topics
does anyone have the torque specs for the bolts required to change the brake pads? i.e the 2 big ones
pics will be up 3 mins from now
nut next to wheel i heard it requires 80lbs? confirm please, because that seems A LOT because lug nuts are 80
< white patches = showing frame and curved portion near the top = showing subframe.
what should i do so that they dont rust when water splashes against it? i think it might be rusting as it is... the subframe will be hammered so i can go 16" rims later and still tuck w/o rubbing
pics will be up 3 mins from now
nut next to wheel i heard it requires 80lbs? confirm please, because that seems A LOT because lug nuts are 80
< white patches = showing frame and curved portion near the top = showing subframe.what should i do so that they dont rust when water splashes against it? i think it might be rusting as it is... the subframe will be hammered so i can go 16" rims later and still tuck w/o rubbing
Last edited by SkaiWu; Dec 6, 2008 at 11:19 AM.
well i wouldnt do anything casue your tires are just going to rub it rite off again. But if you must spary bed liner works great. The reason youve had such trouble is cause you removed the caliper and mount thoes big bolts you removed should stay on and the two smaller bolts rite above the rubber boots should hav been reomved. THe easiest way from this point would be to remove thoes two small bolt rebolt in the mount (just make sure you torque them in good and tight then set you pads in the mount slide your cliper over the pads and re fasten them if your friend knew so much im not sure why he had you remove the caliper and mounting frame
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,969
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Yes you have to compress the caliper piston back into the bore, because the new pads are thicker than the old ones. That's the only way to get the caliper back on. Be sure the brake MC cap is off so that pressure doesn't build up inside. Fluid level will rise slightly when you press the caliper piston back in, so make sure it doesn't overflow.
Also, did you get your rotors resurfaced or buy new rotors? You should always do this when replacing pads, because the old pads had grooves that matches the rotor grooves. If you put new pads on old rotors, you won't have the full pad face pressing against the rotor when braking.
Also, did you get your rotors resurfaced or buy new rotors? You should always do this when replacing pads, because the old pads had grooves that matches the rotor grooves. If you put new pads on old rotors, you won't have the full pad face pressing against the rotor when braking.
Also, did you get your rotors resurfaced or buy new rotors? You should always do this when replacing pads, because the old pads had grooves that matches the rotor grooves. If you put new pads on old rotors, you won't have the full pad face pressing against the rotor when braking.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post







