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Failing economy 10 second hatch build

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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 11:59 AM
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Default Failing economy 10 second hatch build

This is for us that can afford to spend the money to go really fast, but still like to have fun.

Well, a lot of us out here do not have the time or especially the funds these days to build a very competitive street car for certain classes. I would like to post up my, what I like to call, “BUDGET” street car build that I am in the process of.

Since I do not have the $$$$$ currently on building a car that runs 8’s or 9’s my goal is to run at least one 10 sec pass on my M&H 235/60/15” bias ply’s. Its hard enough trying to find the time to work on this thing, considering, working 40 hours a week, taking 9 credits trying to finish up my degree, not to mention having a full time girlfriend and a wife on the side…….

So here is my platform

The day I got it home over 4 years ago.......I was the first to drive it on that swap


In the body shop within a year of me owning the car


Fresh paint at the time


After I turbo'd the original engine


Has the big street tires on it


Last time I ran it at the track (Pinks All Out Rockingham, NC)




Here is a little info about what I plan on running and my current list of mods:

Engine
Stock B18C with ARP headstuds (unknown mileage, but has already ran some 11 sec timeslips)
Blox Intake mani
Avid Mounts (old style, been on the car 4 years) update: modified the mounts and they are full solid now
Endyn Engine breather setup
Basically everything else is stock

Turbo setup
Turbonetics turbo update: was a T3/T04E 54 trim now a 60-1 after a rebuild
Muetek cast mani (was running a Drag mani)
Turbosmart 35mm wastegate with 10psi spring update: running a Tial 38mm now
Rev Hard intercooler
2.5” piping

Fuel System
Walbro 255
Precision 880cc injectors
Fuel rail

Transmission
Stock GSR tranny (never opened up, probably has 100k miles)
Competition Clutch Stage 5 (sprung hub, clutch setup also has about 12k miles on it)

Suspension
KYB struts
Ground Control coilovers (spring rates are 300 front and 400 rear, I think. Came off my friend’s autocross car before he went big time with the suspension and before it was stolen)
Omni adjustable UCA’s in the front
Omni rear lower control arms
ES bushings throughout

Engine management
Tuned on Crome by Howard Shoaf @ RLZ Engineering update: Neptune RTP is what Im running


Other knick-knacks and mods
SS brake lines and clutch line
Integra brake swap front and rear
Integra brake booster
Integra brake master cylinder
ARP extended lug studs front and rear
Momo Rookie Race seat




That is the basic rundown of the car. Some of these mods have not been accomplished yet, as you can tell. It is a very simple setup that has run pretty good. This is the 3rd engine that has been in the car. The first was a JDM B18C that lasted 2 months after it was turbo’d. The #4 piston ringlands decided to punch out early one night on that engine. Not really sure why, it was tuned well. The tuner and I both say either the stock PCV system or bad gas contributed to that. The second engine setup was that blown JDM B18C with some Eagle rods and stock bore Wisecos. That engine lasted a very hard 12k miles and started to get a little noisy. I was a little worried about it so I took it out and tore it down. It sounded like bad piston slap, I am thinking the stock bores went out of round. So this is the third engine so to speak. It has lasted so far, the headgasket did go on it one night. I replaced that and threw in my ARP headstuds and it has been running fine since. I do not baby my car it has been run quite a few times including Pinks All Out. It has run 11’s on pump gas and 10psi of boost. That was on those big street tires that were hurting me on the big end and this current engine. The engine with rod’s and pistons was definitely faster and had a more aggressive pump gas tune on it. That engine would have gone mid to low 11’s on slicks and pump gas.

I’m not sure if I will be able to make enough power to run 10’s on 10psi of boost. I have not decided if I want to tune it on race gas. I know this time around there should not be an exhaust, just an open DP. That should pick up some power over the 2.5” Kteller exhaust that I was running. Also, the turbo may have different internals and therefore may be able to make more power at 10psi than before. The 11 sec passes before were done with out the back seat, passenger seat, and no carpet. This time it will have all the seats and carpet.

So anyways, enough rambling from me. Post up your thoughts, complaints, ideas, info you have on your car, and especially if you have already went 10’s on a stock engine and a street car. I know there are several of you out there that have. I have been on h-t since the beginning so I have read about and seen some of you run well on stock engines.

I will be updating with pics and info as I have time to work on the car and as I get parts

Last edited by 13173; Apr 20, 2009 at 06:03 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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Here is a few current pics of it's current state









Try not to mind the tightey whitey underwear as shop rags.....I found a bag of them that had not been opened (yeah right!!!). I think me or my brother got them for a halloween costume and never used them. They make good shop rags though!

Last edited by 13173; Feb 28, 2009 at 12:40 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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ditch the bumper supports
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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As long as there's jb weld on the car somewhere, I'd say you're doing a pretty good job of keepin it rizzeeeaaal.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 01:10 PM
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Yeah, the bumper supports are probably gone and there is no JB weld on the car. At least none that I have put on there or run across yet.

Dont get the wrong idea, just because it is a budget build does not mean that its going to be thrown together. Im picky with my car and while its no show car its very well maintained and I try to keep all work that is done clean and neat.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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Got an update on my turbo. It is now going to be a 60-1
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 10:53 PM
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Up the boost over the wastegate pressure! And get another manifold. :p

T60-1's work pretty nicely. I personally like T3/T67s, but both will do a good job.

What trap speed was this car normally running on 10 psi?

Looks great though. And good luck!
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Honda Bull
Up the boost over the wastegate pressure! And get another manifold. :p

T60-1's work pretty nicely. I personally like T3/T67s, but both will do a good job.

What trap speed was this car normally running on 10 psi?

Looks great though. And good luck!
Hey man thanks!!! I have looked through some of your posts and threads before.........

I was running a Drag manifold and still have it, some have made decent power with those cast manifolds. It appears that my Drag mani was starting to form a crack so I looked around a bit and found that Muetek that Im going to run this time around for a steal. I got it brand new from the company over a year ago and I want to say that I didnt spend much more than $100 shipped for it. Not to long ago I looked at their site again and the manifolds were over $200 shipped. Have you had bad luck with that Muetek manifold before or know someone that has?

As for trap speeds the mph with those big M&H's was around 115mph. If I remember correctly this engine made around 280whp and 200ft lbs. This was on RLZ's dyno which has been known to read a little lower than others. I believe 1/8th mile mph was around 96mph with the big street tires.

I found this post from before.......This was the best pass that I know of from this current engine.

60' 1.842
330' 5.047
1/8th 7.653
MPH 94.66
1000 9.907
1/4 11.854
MPH 114.87

There was a headwind/crosswind so that could have affected my MPH. On that particular run I tree'd a Camaro pretty good, and out ran his quicker but losing 11.668 @ 114.66 mph

Setup is:
EG hatch (minus carpet, rear seat, passenger seat)
Bone stock USDM B18C (ARP Headstuds)
Drag Turbo Kit
2.5 mandrel Kteller exhaust
Bone stock GSR tranny
Stock axles
CC Stage 5 (4 puck sprung hub)
Tuned on Crome by RLZ

Last edited by 13173; Dec 5, 2008 at 11:56 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 13173
not to mention having a full time girlfriend and a wife on the side…….
lol
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by fatboy1185
lol
X2 lol
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:27 AM
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I need to go work on my junk today, but its cold out and the game is on.......

I got my SS brake lines and clutch line in yesterday. I need to order the rest of my bushings for the front suspension.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:54 AM
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Sounds about right. I was trapping 118-119 mph all the time on 11.5 psi with no weight pulled out.

As per the manifold; no, I've never heard of issues with those. I was just giving you **** because I'm not a fan of the cast manifolds. Although, I definitely know they work just fine.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:59 AM
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yeah, i know the old cast stuff works pretty well.......those Inline Pro manifolds work good and the old Rev Hard cast manifolds work well.

I have never seen or known personally of anyone using this manifold I have now. I hope it works out fine, Im sure it will. I know the old cast manifolds do not look anywhere near as good or cool as the tubular, but they get the jobbie job done!!!
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 10:51 PM
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No updates today cause I was too busy wheelin in my XJ.................



I might just love my Jeep more than my Honda!!! (shhhhh...dont tell anyone though)

Sorry not drag related at all.........

Actually, I did stop by the shop were I keep my car and do a little painting on the rear trailing arms and brake calipers.......

Last edited by 13173; Dec 6, 2008 at 10:58 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 04:06 AM
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Default i have the same manifold.

I have the same manifold and i paid 130 shipped about 6 months ago. ill let u know on how it works out because im putting it on a semi built b16. There was a guy on here a while back that made pretty good power with the same manifold as we got. cant remember who though. nice build. im in the same quest for tens as u. good luck.
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 07:14 AM
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I've been some 11.30's with a stock b-17 and race gas at 15 psi on slicks. On bfg d/r's I've been 11.63 on the same tune. Your car>me in the 1/8th though, on d/r's my best with the b-17 has been low 7.90's and 94mph.
I too am on the quest for low buck 10's.
I have the only imort in the group of people I race with and guess I'll have to build a good engine to keep up. I've blown a cylinder out of an ls and now I'm scared of pump gas and I'm really tired of paying 8.50 a gallon to drive a 100 miles to go race.
Good luck on finding the 10's.
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 08:22 AM
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Yeah, the gas station just a few miles away from my house sells race gas, 100 and 110 octane. It is $8.00 a gallon for me as well. I really wished that I could do an E85 tune, but no such luck.

I still have some time to decide how I want to tune this thing, (race or pump gas) but Im really thinking that the only way Im going to be able to get close to my goal is with race gas.

One cool thing is when you catch guys over there at those pumps late at night. You know someone is going racing. Its the only station with in 30+ miles that sells race gas at the pump, and the pumps sit out and away from the others. Most of the time its Mustangs that I catch over there...........
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 09:38 AM
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Sounds like a pretty good build. And some pretty good times for really not that much power. Have you considered using a meth/water kit, I think that would help out quite a bit. I know guys around kansas city use it with success. For the AEM unit I think it's around $375, for a gallon tank setup. There was just an artical in Modified Mag about it, and it seems as though you can use winshield washer fluid. Because it already has a water/meth mix. And aslo they were talking about one gallon lasting 500 miles depending on how much your in boost. Something to consider, besides trying to find and use race gas.

I plan on buiding a budget build like this also, as soon as I can sell a couple of cars to fund the project. All I care about is running mid to upper 10's. I'm like you I can't afford to pay for the high dollar transmissions and axles to go 9's. But eventually. I traded an R1 for this as my shell though...its gone as fast as 9.85 @ 155 mph. no motor or trans though of course.




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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 01:06 PM
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Dang, same color and you already got a sumped fuel tank.

I have looked into and thought about the meth/water injection setup. I know a guy here that had an Evo that made about 550whp on a 35R and a meth/water injection. He was running an all stock engine other than headstuds and cams and it was all tuned up by AMS.

Good luck with your build up, fill me in on how its coming along.
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 12:00 PM
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Well, my only updates as of right now are

My turbo is on the way back (rebuilt 60-1)

I have an aftermarket fuel rail now

My garage bay is flooded!!! YAY that makes me so happy

Ohhhh.....I got the rear trailing arms on
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 09:23 PM
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looks good bro
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 13173
Its hard enough trying to find the time to work on this thing, considering, working 40 hours a week, taking 9 credits trying to finish up my degree, not to mention having a full time girlfriend and a wife on the side…….
Wow, that is some busy life.
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mar778c
Wow, that is some busy life.

Tell me about it, man!!!!!!!!!!

Well, today I got the engine out of the car today

UPS dropped my turbo off..........it seriously looks brand new, I just hope that it lasts

I got the rear motor mount insert out and Im going to see if I can get something made or find something to put in there to make it more of a solid mount.


Doubt I get to work on the car much tomorrow. Get to spend the day with the gf (I might try to get her to turn a few wrenches) and then go to a family christmas shindig...........YAY
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 11:05 PM
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Later on tonight I got something made up to put in my rear mount to make it more solid. Not sure if any of you are familiar with this stuff named Nylatron. From what I have seen personally this stuff is pretty tough and should hold up fine in that rear mount. I just have to press it in the mount itself now.
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 12:48 PM
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nice
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