Hey I just picked up a 94 RS for dirt cheap, and am going to use it for basic daily commuting, and as cheap as modding these cars are, I might as well have a little fun, but first I want to fix the issues it has, and if anyone can help me out, and guide me on these cars -- do some educating, it would be highly appreciated.

First issue - When i cold start it, immediately it runs @ nearly 3000 RPMs. Do these cars have a idle air control valve that is my problem? Where is it, whats it look like, how do i fix.

Second issue - When it gets past that first minute or two of crazy high idle, the engine then occilates between 2200-2800, as if someone were revving it. Once the car is warm, it goes away. What to look for, how to fix? It just is annoying as the car then feels like it has a tight convertor and the engine wants to make it take off.

Third (minor) issue. The transmission. Granted the weather is cold, but the transmission (automatic) seems really sloppy, i'm sure it's worn pretty well, but yet will spin the tires on the 1-2, and 2-3 shifts. and I don't need to be revving it sky high, or really getting on it, but the 2-3 needs to be wound out pretty well to do so.

Fourth issue - The parking lamp "connectors" I'm not talking about the wiring harness portion but the actual piece that accepts the harness from the car, and also holds the bulb. Both sides are completely fubar and I need new ones. Where might I be able to find this stuff?

Also on a side note, I NEVER EVER thought I'd be on this forum as an actual member, and not trolling from another site about some stupid topic. Great forum you all have here.

 

Is the engine on that thing stock? Or do you know? I'm only asking because mine has big cams in it, and idles around 23-2500 on a cold start up. After a few minutes it slowly begins to come down and ends up at 1000 rpm. That probably isn't your issue, but something to think about. The Idle Air Control should be on the back of your intake manifold, almost touching the firewall. Should be able to see it very clearly. Mess around with your throttle cable to see if any changes in RPM happen. Check your idler screw, which is right on top of your throttle body. You can also adjust the idle, using two wrenches. The bracket that holds your throttle cable is where you can adjust, right on top of your intake manifold. Probably should take off the intake system, and clean your throttle body. Get a rag and some carb or brake cleaner and spray the rag, hold the throttle open and give it a good scrub inside. Should take all of ten minutes to check all that. Oh yea, one more thing....make sure your gas pedal is secured and not bent or anything. This can cause it to be off as well.

The automatic tranny issue, well the only thing I can suggest is to do a drain and fill on the fluid and use some sort of additive when putting fluid back in. I have also heard to take the shifting solenoid off, and clean it up real nice. The SS is on the top of the transmission and kind of looks like a vtec solenoid if you know what one looks like. It has two small cylinder/cap looking things on it. I don't know a whole lot about automatics, but that should help a bit.

As far as the parking lamp connectors, visit local junkyards first. They will probably let you get them for next to nothing. But make sure you point out what you need, other wise they will probably give you the whole thing. If you can't find at local junkyards (which you should have no probs. doing), then I suggest you go to Acura Dealership. I don't know what these cost, but I always go to Acura when I have a weird problem or hard to find parts b/c they can hook you up.

Good Luck!

 

Engine internals are stock, has a CAI on it though, but everything is looked up properly, i couldn't see any split vacuum lines on it. I'm surprized the idle can be messed with. It's not that though, eventually the idle goes normal once it enters closed loop.

I dont' want to mess with the trans fluid, that could likely make the situation worse, from past experience, but it's definately worn and lazy. I used to be an automotive technician before I was an IT geek, and I know my way around cars, but my experience is heavily domestic, which isn't really different, but i'm used to GM or DCX sensors, and what they look like.

I will try a stealership, as there are like no more P&P junkyards, and the non- P&P overcharge like heck.

 

There should be a screw on the throttle body to adjust idle. You should not mess with the throttle cable to only adjust idle. You should only adjust it to take any slack out of the cable so that there is no free play at the top of the pedal travel.

 

A drain and fill shouldn't make an auto tranny worse. The only thing that could make it worse, is if you have it "flushed" out under pressure. Shops will hook into a cooler line and flush the fluid out and that can break up some chunks of nasty stuff and get stuck in your gears.

As far as the throttle cable goes, he is right. It shouldn't be adjusted there, but most times people mess with them or swap a motor and didn't put it on right or tried to adjust it. You should make sure it isn't adjusted to hold your throttle plate open any.

For the lenses problem, check your local craigslist often for part outs. Some times you will find exactly what you need on there. Other times, not so much.

 

Ya, a t-tech, i used to use them. not always the best idea for worn out tranny's. thanks for some ideas, either way it's something actuated, either electrically or vacuum actuated thats the problem.