New Crx.. Tuning questions?
I just bought a 1990 CRX with a B16A swap. The only problem I have is that it smells like its running rich. Im not sure which ECU is in it (it's OBD0 still) But the car also came with a PR3-J00 ECU which is out of a JDM 92 Integra according to the Hondata website, according to the guy the PR3-J00 has a lower Vtec setting and gives more fuel to the injectors. The guy says he hasn't tuned it since doing the swap. Im kinda new to the whole tuning ECU's thing, so how do I go about doing this?
I would really like for you to explain to me how running rich can damage a motor... If anything running a little rich is much safer then running lean.
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switch to obd1 and get a p30 and leave it alone........might cost 200 bucks, but it will run stock and not give you any problems. Or you could try to find a Obd0 jdm b16a ecu, not sure what the code on one is. Obd0 is lame so still consider swapping to obd1 and using the p30 out of a del sol. that is my $.02
Running around with a super rich tune (pretty much you'd be making black smoke
) you run the risk of washing your cylinders. Doing so will rinse the bore walls with gas without maintaining a nice small amount of oil in the cross hatch on the wall. No oil on the walls = no lubrication = very hot rings = dead motor. You get the idea.A little rich would usually be preferred though, if you really don't know what you're doing.
Running lean isn't always bad either, it's completely dependent on many things (load, throttle, ignition advance, temperatures, etc). You have to know when you can be lean and when not to be lean.
And just because it "smells rich" doesn't mean it is. If the car doesn't have a functional cat (e.g. test pipe, or no cat at all) it will always smell "rich". Try a game with your friends sometime and guess my AFR
. You can mess with it from 11-17 with the car running normally and they most likely won't be able to tell. The only way to get a true diagnosis is to get a wideband on there.
Notice he said "super rich" not "a little rich".
Running around with a super rich tune (pretty much you'd be making black smoke
) you run the risk of washing your cylinders. Doing so will rinse the bore walls with gas without maintaining a nice small amount of oil in the cross hatch on the wall. No oil on the walls = no lubrication = very hot rings = dead motor. You get the idea.
A little rich would usually be preferred though, if you really don't know what you're doing.
Running lean isn't always bad either, it's completely dependent on many things (load, throttle, ignition advance, temperatures, etc). You have to know when you can be lean and when not to be lean.
And just because it "smells rich" doesn't mean it is. If the car doesn't have a functional cat (e.g. test pipe, or no cat at all) it will always smell "rich". Try a game with your friends sometime and guess my AFR
. You can mess with it from 11-17 with the car running normally and they most likely won't be able to tell.
The only way to get a true diagnosis is to get a wideband on there.
Running around with a super rich tune (pretty much you'd be making black smoke
) you run the risk of washing your cylinders. Doing so will rinse the bore walls with gas without maintaining a nice small amount of oil in the cross hatch on the wall. No oil on the walls = no lubrication = very hot rings = dead motor. You get the idea.A little rich would usually be preferred though, if you really don't know what you're doing.
Running lean isn't always bad either, it's completely dependent on many things (load, throttle, ignition advance, temperatures, etc). You have to know when you can be lean and when not to be lean.
And just because it "smells rich" doesn't mean it is. If the car doesn't have a functional cat (e.g. test pipe, or no cat at all) it will always smell "rich". Try a game with your friends sometime and guess my AFR
. You can mess with it from 11-17 with the car running normally and they most likely won't be able to tell. The only way to get a true diagnosis is to get a wideband on there.
switch to obd1 and get a p30 and leave it alone........might cost 200 bucks, but it will run stock and not give you any problems. Or you could try to find a Obd0 jdm b16a ecu, not sure what the code on one is. Obd0 is lame so still consider swapping to obd1 and using the p30 out of a del sol. that is my $.02
And just because it "smells rich" doesn't mean it is. If the car doesn't have a functional cat (e.g. test pipe, or no cat at all) it will always smell "rich". Try a game with your friends sometime and guess my AFR
. You can mess with it from 11-17 with the car running normally and they most likely won't be able to tell.
The only way to get a true diagnosis is to get a wideband on there.
. You can mess with it from 11-17 with the car running normally and they most likely won't be able to tell. The only way to get a true diagnosis is to get a wideband on there.
Basically if you have the stock B16 engine with the stock ecu the car should run just fine. The only difference is the chassis that the motor is going into. If you have doubts about the cars performance it is very simple to modify the stock OBD0 PR3/PW0 B16 code with a program called BRE.
So if you still think something is up, take it to a tuner who can tune BRE. All you need to do is get your ecu chipped beforehand.
Both the ecu's that came with my car are PR3-J00's though.. And it do think it's running rich because sometimes when i hit V-tec it bogs like it's getting too much fuel.
You will need the obd0 to obd1 conversion harness.. chipped P28 ecu, OBD1 or OBD2 Bseries vtec dizzy and any 4 wire o2 sensor from a 92-00 civic/integra.
Any OBD1 dizzy off any Vtec Bseries will work?
If you want to just run a stock ecu, then the P30 is the one you want. It doesn't really matter if you get a JDM or USDM P30.
I just said chipped ecu because then it is tunable later on down the road and can be programed to run your B16 right from the start.
I just said chipped ecu because then it is tunable later on down the road and can be programed to run your B16 right from the start.
Yeah I just want my car to run right and stock. I heard its harder to chip the JDM P30's though. I also don't need to buy a chipping kit because my electronics class has all the stuff and the class has a chip burner.
It is only harder because the JDM ecus have surface mount components, but it isn't that bad.
Okay I converted the car to OBD1 using a bone stock P30-010 ecu. But now the idle isn't right. sometimes it idles at around 1500 then other times it idles at about 1100.
My old OBD0 1-wire oxygen sensor was pretty f'ed up so possibly the idle went up because the previous owner adjusted it to idle right with the messed up 02 sensor? So now that its running right the idle went up?
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