I have done some research on this topic, basically from checking the wires at the distributor, to testing your ecu. I was driving home on the E-way and i usually am watching the rpms for no reason and it dipped like i lost power, then the car ran good for roughly five miles, the engine shut off, but everything else was still working, radio, heat, dash lights. pulled over to the side of the road check the distributor nothing was wrong, some coolant was leaking out of the overflow but i overfilled the overflow when i just did a change on fluids. today i was driving to work and near and after 3K rpms the tach would sputter but the car wouldnt act different, so i slowed my speed to where the car was around 2700 rpms and went to work, mind you I have a bone stock 1990 crx si, with an si trans which means i wasn't making my way to work too quick, the car has not a single modification, and has 242K miles on it, wondering if someone can point me in a direction?

 

so the car runs fine? but the tach dips when driving?

 

yes, and i checked my wiring that goes to my trans and it looks good, i didnt want to take it past 3k just because i was so far away from work, i've got a dizzy in my garage i'm going to get the car past 3k and see if it will die on me and replace it at work tommorow.

 

let us know how it goes..

 

this is hapening to me i drive 4-5 miles and there is a high possibility that my car shuts off if u were to hold it at 2k for 2-3minutes in neutral your tack will sputter big time code 15 is for your igniter which controls your spark the fix for this would be to replace the igniter. since you have your other dizzy you can try your luck with that one as for me mines is set t arrive tomorrow

 

checked my dizzy its for my old set up which was a b7 I dont think it's going to work, i Work at belle Tire so I get my parts at cost but they need to be overnighted, and living in Michigan we just got dumped on with snow. I should have this replaced by Tuesday. If you get yours in before let me know if it corrects your problem.

 

the igniter should be the same no?

 

That code is caused by three well known things:

1: Car has a swap/hacked wiring. BLK/YEL at distributor corroding, causing code 15.

2: Ignitor overheated, associated with a coil that gets too hot, which is caused by excessive spark plug gap, plug wires with too much resistance, and poor cap/rotor contacts.

3: Coil is intermittently defective with heat and/or rpm, and cannot saturate in time to spark correctly, causing a feedback in the ignitor, ruining it.

Most ignitors are the same, as with the coils, there are very few differences between them, and they tend to be between models (IE civic/integra)

I was able to transplant all the pickups, wheels, shaft bearing and seal from a 95 B16A distributor and have them work in a D16Y8 OBD2 car. So you should be able to make it work as well.

 

the wiring has no problems with it, possibility of some corrosion though, i put new plug wires on it over two months ago, and i gapped my plugs when i pulled them out, I'm going with replacing the whole dizzy, besides it has 240K+ on it.

 

nice input for me i am just replacing my dizzy as a whole since it is suffering from the red dust of death as taking it apart proved to be a remanufactured unit well it was supose to come today but im not sure if it will get here and if it does i might not be able to install it due to it being extremely foggy and cold were i live when it does ill post what happende