B20 Non-VTEC
Hey guys....i haven't been on this forum long, but so far i like it a lot better than the other H-car forums. Anyways, down to business, i was set on building a CRVTEC, but from reading a lot of stuff on this forum about reliability issues i have decided that i will probably not have the money to build one. But before i completely decide against it i want to make sure. My goals will be a fast daily driver.....no fire breathing race car. However i will be autocrossing it and taking it out to the strip occasionally. Basically i want to build it with mostly stock internals, but with some JE higher compression pistons. I DO NOT plan on revving much over 8,000, so do you think i will have reliability issues? I plan on running a B16 intake man, B16 head with GSR camshafts, and i/h/e, and that's probably it. So with better pistons being my only major internal modification can i still expect reliability issues. If so i plan on building the car with the stock head w/ p&p and 5 angle valve job. then all the same stuff i would do if it were VTEC. Anyways thanks for the input....also what tranny is the most reccomended. THANX
I would not count on this setup producing a reliable CR-VTEC. There are a few things you need to add to this for a reliable motor. They are rods (to furthre lighten the internals and reduce stresses at high RPMs), a main bearing girdle (to better hold the motor together at high RPMs), piston oil squirters( to cool the pistons to prevent detonation AND to better lubricate the cylinders at high RPM), and a VTEC oil pump (to provide enough oil flow to prevent pressure drop due to oil requirements of the VTEC solenoid and piston oil squirters). Remember: 8000RPM is quite a bit higher than these motors were made to rev.
i think the aftermarket pistons are made to take higher temps....are they not....so i shouldn't need the oil squirters right.....how much for rods and a girdle?. Would it be alright with pistons rods and a girdle?.......i would rarely hit 8k....also i would like to know from people who have done this or know of someone who is running this.....not just what they have heard.....cause i have heard a lot of different things about this setup....some conflicting and some not......so.....thanks again
Non-vtec engines have an oil gallery in the rods to oil the cylinder wall. Vtec engines use the splash from the squirters. I have looked for aftermarket rods with the oil gallery but have not been successful, I just may add the squirters. I suggest that you use one form of oiling because its important.
If you're staying all motor just use stock rods. Be sure to get everything balanced too. A well built "reliable" crvtec costs as much as a turbo kit.
If you're staying all motor just use stock rods. Be sure to get everything balanced too. A well built "reliable" crvtec costs as much as a turbo kit.
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ya know all these rumors are annoying.
saying a CRVTEC is unreliable is like saying an H22 makes cars understeer.
you DON'T know unless you have one or try it.
my motor is STOCK head and bottom end, and it's been built for almost a year now and has the **** revved out of it everyday. it's had no major problems. **** my old ZC had a shitload more problems than the B20 will ever have.
saying a CRVTEC is unreliable is like saying an H22 makes cars understeer.
you DON'T know unless you have one or try it.
my motor is STOCK head and bottom end, and it's been built for almost a year now and has the **** revved out of it everyday. it's had no major problems. **** my old ZC had a shitload more problems than the B20 will ever have.
i know where you are comming from two.oh, but i am not there yet...
maybe it is only once you start messing with it, it goes pear shaped...
im leaving my crank untouched, oil pump untouched (its the same as a VTEC one anyways!!!),
im adding:
ARP rod bolts,
ARP head studs,
engine oil cooler,
PCV system,
rebuilt factory B16A head,
a sensible 7500/8000 redline(depends on dyno...)
and if i am lucky - like two.oh - it will be a reliable and quite quick daily driver.
anyone disagree?
thanks,
t..
maybe it is only once you start messing with it, it goes pear shaped...
im leaving my crank untouched, oil pump untouched (its the same as a VTEC one anyways!!!),
im adding:
ARP rod bolts,
ARP head studs,
engine oil cooler,
PCV system,
rebuilt factory B16A head,
a sensible 7500/8000 redline(depends on dyno...)
and if i am lucky - like two.oh - it will be a reliable and quite quick daily driver.
anyone disagree?
thanks,
t..
thanks for the replies......i'm seriously thinking of not putting on the VTEC head, and just building the engine how it is......has anyone seriously modded the stock head and engine combo. Another question.....with stock rods, and crank and GSR cams (on B20 head) would it be of any benefit to get higher compression pistons? Thanks again .
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