ok so for starters.....im fairly new to the honda world. I was raised on domestics......spent a few years in a WRX and now i have officially purchased my first honda. i guess this is a Im new to the forum and need some damn help thread. anyhow so i bought a 93 civic hatch. havent even got the title yet so im not sure if its an SI or not. im pretty knowlegable with motors and have swapped a b18c1 into a 93 coupe before. anyhow i bought this hatch and it has a d16z6 swapped in......i assume due to the vtec solenoid being "custom" wired. i paid 700 bucks for the car so i was expecting to put in some blood and sweat. my story/cliff notes follow

1. (day of purchase)- test drove the car and the previous owner replaced the dizzy and when i drove it is was farting and banging spudder and studdering. get it home and the plug wires were all kinds of backwards.
2. Fixed the above issue and alls well. car has power and runs great
3. Car idles at about 2.5k until warm and then once warm jumps from 1k-2.5k
4. SRS light is on and horn does not work
5. Im sure timing is off as dizzy is turned all the way to the left.
6. Car has an obd1 p28 ecu. will this work ok with a d16z6?
7. Do I have to remove the timing chain lower cover to time the car????
8. Can anyone give me some assistance to help solve the above problems.
9. Im in Arlington, TX so anyone who is local and would like to exchange some advice for Bud Light.....pm me.....im all in.

All in all i know i got a hell of a deal but this is going to be a daily driver/project. any help would be much appreciated,

 

As far as your idle issues, make sure there are no large vacuum leaks and your IAC is operating properly.

With the SRS light and none functioning horn, I'm guessing clock spring, but check all your fuses first.

Take a timing light and check your timing. I believe factory spec for timing is 16 degrees TDC, but would have to double check.
EDIT: almost forgot, jump your two pin diagnostic connector on the right side under the dash before setting your timing.

P28 ecu will work just fine.

 

i appreciate the response man. ive checked timing and as far as that goes i guess its pretty hard to tell if the idle is off. do you have to remove the lower timing belt cover to check it. i havent seen any loose vac. lines but that doesnt mean there isnt any. is the IAC on the back if the manifold?? if so then thats where ill check first. like i said i think this was a z6 swap as the vtec was "rigged" up.

ive been looking into the cable reel connector replacement as far as the horn/srs issue goes but ill check into the clock spring.....what exactly am i looking for. ill check the haynes manual but im sure you know how that goes.

and where the hell is that connector for the timing at. there is a 3 pin and a 2 pin connector not even hooked up next to the p29 ecu and i havent located that "jumper" connector yet. is it above the ecu or what.

 

1st To answer a few of your other questions. Quick way to tell if its an Si it will have a power sunroof,power mirrors, cruse control and rear disc it also comes stock with the
d16z6 and the s20 b000 trans. most of the above are an easy swap. the one that is harder would be the power roof. SO no power roof not an Si.
2nd the iacv is located behind the intake to the right of the TB. Any of the old tricks to find a vaccum leak on a domestic will work with an import (spray starter fuid around vaccum lines and intake if idle smooths out you have found a leak)

cable reel and clock spring are the same thing

 

the above works, but i like to use wd-40. try around the throttle body gasket, and the intake mani gaskets.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, H-T, but I believe the 2 pin connector (which is also jumped to check for CEL's) is also the connector jumped for timing

 

yes, but in order to set your timing properly you have to have your idle correct.

to the op, if the dizzy is turned all the way to the left then its probably wrong. the dizzy is "usually" slightly off from all the way left.

pull the upper timing cover, turn the motor to top dead center, and make sure the cam timing is correct.

if its correct then take off the intake, there are two holes in the throttle body.

cover the lower port and if the idle is ok, then the fast idle thermal valve is open and thats the problem.

if that doesnt work, cover the top port, if the car dies then there isnt a big vacuum leak, if the car doesnt die, there is a vacuum leak

 

cool im gonna try all of the above. ill post when i figure something out

 

ok so here is an update and some pics of what ive found so far.

1. i removed the throttle body and its was heavily gunked up. i soaked it in throttle body cleaner and polished it up the best i could. neither vato-zone nor oreillys had a damn gasket in stock so i have one on order and should get that tomorrow.


2. the IACV was pretty dirty as well so i did the same.


3. the FITV was in pretty bad shape as well. the little nipple at the end that what looks like a coolant line goes onto was completely clogged and the hose looked like it had a marble in it from the backed up blockage. does anyone know what that hose is called as it looks like i might have to replace it as well. I hope the FITV still works well. i couldnt get the phillips screws out of that cap to clean the inside area by the nipple but it looks like a small flat head screwdriver, lots of wd-40, carb cleaner and compressed air may have done the trick. There is a little pin that acts like a plunger in the base of the FITV. its grooved on one side. my compressed air blew it out. i can tell which end goes back in first. im assume the grooved in sticks out. if anyone knows please chime in



Thanks to everyone who gave me some pointers and after i get the gaskets and get everything installed ill update. as far as the SRS light and Horn.....anyone have any pointers as to were to start on that issue??

 

for the srs and horn, you could start at the cable reel.


as for that FITV...thats in bad shape man

i would take it out of the picture....


take a piece of thin cardboard, like a cigarette pack.

cut a square to cover the FITV, you are making a gasket.

remove the o rings from the fitv.

bolt the fitv back up with the cardboard gasket blocking its passages.

then re-route the coolant lines, bypassing the FITV all together.

 

whats the point in bypassing the FITV?

 

you dont have too, but looking at that FITV i can guarantee you that it is the cause of your idle problems

the clogged port is a big give away. basically bypassing it disables it completely.

you dont have to bypass it, but just looking at the pictures of it, you will need a new one if you want to keep it

 

ok so lets say i removed the FITV.... where do i route the coolant line and is this going to throw a CEL.

I put everything back on today and the car started up and the idle was a lot better. i still have to adjust the screw on the throttle body but i can tell it helped a lot.

i did however get a CEL as soon as i started the car. there is a leak in the FITV coolant line hose but i dont see that being the issue.

i guess i would need an OBD1 scanner to read the code huh....?

 

the fitv cannot set a cel, it has no electrical connection to the ecu.

you dont need an obd1 scanner. at the top of this page is a detailed FAQ on how to check the cel and what the codes are.

if you look at the coolant routing for the FITV and IACV, you will see they are linked together, you just take the first line into the FITV and connect it to the first port on the IACV.

thus elimnating the FITV. but you HAVE TO block off the ports on the FITV for it to be effective.

now remember, that is just a suggestion to save some money. the best option for you is to replace the FITV, it just costs more

 

i honestly think the fitv is fine. i fixed my idle issue once i cleaned it up. i gotta replace the hose and then bleed the coolant system, adjust the throttle and figure out the CEL this evening. thanks for the input.

 

well then, thats great good luck with the cel