i bought a 94 honda accord with f22b1 swap. the guy that had it before did all the swap work. he did harness and ecu. i know he did it because it was all in the back seat when i got it. he said it still needs a clutch master cylinder. the car wont start. windows dont roll down, only battery light comes on the cluster when i turn the key on. the clutch just falls to the floor whenever i push it down but it still should start when its down right? it wont turn over. it doesnt do anything. help me

 

No CEL, computer is not working, you are going to have a lot of fun with this one my friend.

it wont turn over. it doesnt do anything. help me

Does the starter work?

 

yea i fig would have a big problem. i want to try jumping the starter but i couldnt figure out where to jump it. whenever i get up l8r on imma go take some pics for ya.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...908_142100.jpg
pic of the car. i got it for 300 as is. good deal i think

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e40/stoney0024/1.jpg
plug missing off starter on the backside. the other plug is on.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e40/stoney0024/2.jpg
wire hanging off solenoid i dunno where it goes.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e40/stoney0024/3.jpg
wire i found that i think goes to starter plug in other pic

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e40/stoney0024/4.jpg
sticking out the top of tranny dunno where it goes?

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e40/stoney0024/5.jpg
loose ground wire

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e40/stoney0024/6.jpg
another loose ground coming from back of motor i found. grr

 

bump

 

Put the starter wire back on the starter solenoid just like you think it needs to be, you are correct. Photo 24/3. See if the starter will do anything when you turn the key to start position.

 

thanks alot bro. i will check it with light outside. its dark now. i appreciate the help

 

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...108_094100.jpg

went out today and solved all the wiring problems. everthing is working properly so far. im working on getting the car to start. it now turns over. i know its getting because of the puddle on top of manifold in #1 and i think its coming from #2 spot. any ideas?

 

i fixed fuel leak. im not getting power to the coil. i dunno where the relay box is under dash. anyone?

 

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e4...8_171600-1.jpg

where does the #1 wire get power? the number #2 wire goes to coil. shouldnt i get 12v with key on?

 

The Black with yellow wire on the distributor gets power straight from the ignition switch, check the underhood fuses.

 

yea i checked those fuses they are good. also see 12v at ignition. i want to check the underdash relay but dunno where it is

 

i fig out the problem. the car still has the lx harness in it for disty. i can either hook up lx disty, in which i would have to swap out disty and just plug it up or rewire the lx harness to ex disty.

these are directions to rewire it that someone wrote up.
"ok, bare with me here, I think I might have this figured out.

You are trying to convert your F22B2 distributor from an external coil to an internal coil.

The connection at your current coil is a 4P connection that has three wires running to it. YEL, BLK/YEL and GRN.

The F22B1 internal coil only has two wires. BLK/YEL and BLU.

This is what, I believe, you're going to want to do.

Remove the YEL wire from the car completely by removing it from the connection at the distributor. But take note where that wire went because you're going to take that BLK/YEL wire at the coil and move/extend it to the connection you just pulled the YEL wire out of at the distirbutor.

Now take the distributor cap off. Remove the rotor and the leak cover. Now locate you ICM. It'll have 4 wires running to it. BLU, GRN, BLK/YEL and YEL/GRN.

The green wire is the same wire that ran out to the negative terminal of the external coil. You will want to pull that wire back into the distributor now since thats where the coil will be. Now cut the wire to the desired length so it reaches the negative side of the coil and so it doesn't get caught on the rotor as it spins. Now you're done with the negative side of things.

Locate the BLK/YEL wire. That wire will need to be cut halfway betwen the plastic/rubber tube and the terminal it's connected to. Now you'll need another wire to connect to the positive side of the coil. You can just use the YEL wire you removed earlier. Connect it to the positive side of the coil and then solder it to the short piece of the BLK/YEL wire you just cut. Once those are soldered, you'll need to connect/solder them to the other end of the BLK/YEL wire thats coming out of the plastic/rubber tube inside the distributor. It'll look like a "Y" connection with one end going to the terminal on the ICM and the other going to the positive terminal on the coil. If you need pictures of this, refer to 2point6's write.

Make sure you remove any extra wires that are no longer needed as well as the external coil, cap, leak cover and wire from the coil to the cap.

Now you should be left with an internal coil distributor.

Most of the work is being done inside the distributor. The only modification you need to make on the outside should be to remove the GRN and YEL wires between the distributor and external coil. Then relocate the BLK/YEL wire from the coil to the connection where the YEL wire went at the distributor.

You'll also need to find a way to connect those new wires inside the distributor to the coil. But I'm sure you'll find a way.

Keep in mind... I have not done this personally. This is all just an educated guess based on 2point6's write-up, that I linked earlier, and looking at the Helm manual. Most of the stuff I described above, in regards to whats needs to be done inside the distributor, was explained with pictures by 2point6 in his write-up. So take a look at his write-up, if you haven't yet, cause it should help you visualize what I was trying my best to descibe.

Sorry for such a long post. I hope this is what your looking for and that it helps you.

Edit:
After typing all that, this makes sence "