each time the car sits for a day or so, the car seems like it doesnt want to crank
the engine sounds like it wants too, but it just not
soo what i have to do is put some starter fluid, and it seems so crank
but at a really low idle and then it works its way back up
need help.. ASAP

 

Just some ideas....take your fitv off and screw the plunger in till its snug and clean it out,change the fuel filter,new plugs

 

Ok are you saying the engine cranks(turns over) but does not seem to want to fire ??

 

it sounds like the engines turnin over
but not crank'n
spark plugs and wires are brand new, has like 50 miles on them

 

In automotive shops crank'n(cranking) and turning over mean the same thing.
Can you post a video of whats happening as you try to start.

 

iight, ill have it up tomorrow whenever the car is fully cold.

 

+1 same problem, seems to be the wireing on the ICM is bad, replaced some wires and it stopped but now its back

 

Check for spark and fuel reaching to the cylinders.
Any CEL?

 

i dont know about big_az but in my case, fuel is going in, its just the spark that wont happen

 

so do you think i should recheck my plugs and wires
probably there not on the right gapping
because i drove it last night, and it was misfiring alot.
soo i think it might be it, ill try and update you guys

 

actually a CEL just came on
soo, ill try to do the 2 pin thing

 

Did this begin just after you changed your plugs and wires? If so, then you know where the problem is.

 

ah i never drove the car b/c i bought it with a bad engine and i replaced the engine and then i put new spark plugs and wires

 

i was reading up, and some people had the same problem
they said they changed the fuel filter, and then some said MAP sensor
any suggestions?

 

if its a weak or intermittently bad spark try the ignition coil pack. Has it only been an issue in the cold? If the starter is working fine (ie. its cranking normally) than likely its a fuel or spark issue. My guess due to the coldness is spark. Pull each spark plug and with a friend cranking your car for a second or two, hold your spark boot at a metal part of your block and watch the spark. Check all four (one at a time) and see how strong the spark is.

How ever if the starter isn't cranking could be a sticky solenoid or the starter motor is on its way out

 

OK - so, if the engine is rotating, but not firing, then we should start by separating what is needed to run. First - fuel - make sure you are getting fuel. After cranking, but no fire, you should be able to pull the plugs and see a dampish fuel on them. If they are completely dry or slobbering wet, then move to the fuel system.

While a plug is out - put a plug wire on and ground the outside of the plug base ( obvious, but I'll say it anyway - not with your hand . Have a helped hit the starter. You should see a blue spark. No spark, move to ignition.

If you have a fuel and a spark, then either the mixture is wrong or the timing is way off. Since the car runs at all, the timing is less likely to be the issue. I would focus on mixture. When the engine is cold, the oxygen sensor is ignored. When you crank the starter, nothing happens until you hit the top dead center of cylinder 1. A sensor in the distrib then signals the ECU and the system is now syncronized. For the next 150 to 250 revs, the fuel system heavily richens the mixture and the Cold Idle valve allows more air in. The result is the same as a choke and slight press on the gas peddle. This is why the engine has a small rev up when it first starts.

The basis of the entire cold fuel delivery is the MAP sensor. After several minutes of running, the O2 sensor comes up to operating temperature and the ECU starts running in closed loop mode. This dramatically improves mileage and operation.

Bottom line - Look at the MAP sensor. As I recall, the output is 0v at 30 inches mercury and 5v at 0 inches mercury. So divide a 5v difference by 300 and you should see 16 millivolts (0.016v) per .1 inches below 30 inches or .16v per 1 inch. When the engine is not turning over, the pressure should be reasonably near 30 inches. You should have a voltage well below 1v. Now, you can put a vacuum on the hose going to this sensor. (they make small hand pumps for this, or use your mouth if you are brave and redneck enough... ). You should get a voltage jump when you apply a vacuum. If you have a real vacuum pump and guage, there should be 2.5 v at 15 inches of vacuum.

The other thing that comes to mind is a flakey throttle position sensor. I haven't played with one, so I'll have to check up on what it is supposed to have for an output. I think this varies by model - so what year and model do you have?

 

would an eliminated FITV have anything to do?

 

changed the fuel filter and the intake filter, which btw was full of oil, atleast a qt.
car started up then stalled. soo i primed it a few times and gave it another shot and it cranked. but at a very low rpm then it rose back up..
anyways, anyone think that map sensor maybe bad?

 

Did you check if your battery was good first by any chance? Take your car to any parts store and have them test your battery/alternator/ and starter before you do any thing else.

 

Check fuel pressure. Regular and resting pressure. If rest pressure drops too much or too fast, your fuel pump may be at fault.

 

While I understand you're trying to help the sad truth is that if this kid could do any of the aforementioned procedures he would not be asking for help. Good info though...

 

bump bringing this thread back i have the same issue, did you solve this?

 

i havnt still. I have a obd1 ignition laying around, im gonna swap it in, see if was the distributor.

 

seems like no one with these problems have been able to solve this.

 

Wait, wtf, where did the oil come from? It isn't going to idle well after the first startup in a while. Check your filter again, is there more oil?

If you can crank it and it will start, then the problem is not the fuel or spark. You have something wrong with the intake and/or vacuum system.