So i was taking apart my IM last night and i was trying to remove the butterfly plates. I got the actual plates off but i have no clue how to remove the rod that holds them. Should i just remove the plates that hold the butterflys?

Before someone posts this, i just finished reading that 7 page thread in the faqs section about the IM's. I read most of it but skimmed through 2 pages. I might have missed something on the plates/butterflys but i doubt it. It seems to focus mainly on Port work and chopping up IM's comparing them to the RSX's.

If someone has an answer on how to do this/what is should do please let me know.

 

are you talking about the studs that hold the plate and plemium down?

 

Adam, if you remove the rod, you have to weld the holes shut on the side of the manifold, so just leaving it in is easiest. But while your talking about that system, do you have the plastic box that controls them? Mine the ports all broke off and I need a new one!

 

I am talking about the plate itself that holds the rod in place. I did noticed that if i removed it i would have to do something about the holes. I think i will just remove the plate completely.

I do have that plastic box that controls them. You can have it once i figure out what i can/cannot do with this IM.

 

Hmm, yeah I honestly have'nt dug that into mine, I like the plates working for now, I have noticed a drop in low end torque with them not working. Very evident when going uphill in the mtns at 8000+ ft elevation, had to stay over 4000 rpm to keep speed up, when my h23 pulled the same hills fine at lower rpm and the iab's working.

 

Hmmmm, maybe i will keep them then, i don't know. This is for my f22/h23 franken motor build, not my h22 build. My h22 is using the skunk2 pro series. I realized the other day i have all the parts for the build including an h23 tranny so why not just build the motor and swap it in a chasis with a blown motor for a good DD I still want to crank a couple extra ponnies out of it though.

 

yes you will loose low end and gain very little high end if i remember correctly. That why i ended up going with the blacktrax stage 2 ported manifold on my old all motor setup. If you are running a stock ecu i would just keep it the way it was. I changed it because i was running hondata with a p28 and a p28 doesnt control the butterflys.

 

It is actually going to see a junkyard dsm turbo kit as well so the ecu won't be stock and the airflow is not the same. I know larger volume IM's typically provide better power for turbo systems which is why i wanted to know how to remove the butterfly rod. Ecu will obviously be chipped and the car will get a street tune and possibly a mild dyno tune.

 

oh i must have missed the part that you were boosting it haha. blacktraxs makes spacers might look into that also.

 

Yeah I didn't think this was the boost project you were discussing, since a boosted car is going to more top-end oriented anyways, might as well take them out, weight and flow savings ftw!

 

i never mentioned it until just then. I called a few junk yards in my city and managed to piece a kit together for $220 .

 

lol weight!

 

Ive done this before, I used a rotary tool to cut both ends off of the rods. They are on the outside of the plate. you will have to JBweld, or plug the holes up when done

 

Thanks guys!

 

Ive seen a few people make a spacer plate to lenthen the runners a bit to

 

yah someone in my city did that on their h22 build.

 

Prudz...i've been working on my stock H22A4 manifold for a while now. my problems started when i switched to hondata and a P28 ecu (which doesnt control the butterflies). i was turbo (greddy kit) and ended up switching to the ugly but somewhat functional OBX manifold. now im switching to a big setup (600+ hp) and im going to try out a few different things; one of them being to just hog out the stock manifold. i started in on it and finished gutting the top half and decided that rather than gut the butterfly section, id just go with the blacktrax spacer--just to add volume to the plenum.

in my experience though, there's really no way around cutting the rod holding the butterflies on the ends and pulling it out. once its out you can either weld/jb weld the end holes or the end holes along with the individual runner holes.

 

Thanks, that post gives alot of details. I am leaning towards just jb welding the rod holes. I have not cut them yet but i think that will most likely be the case.

 

Prudz, when I got my chipped P28 from Steve (moto) he told me that I needed to disconnect the IAB diaphragm from the control solenoid and connect it directly to a port on the IM since, like said previously, P28's dont have IAB control. Now they open at ~4000 and are closed below that, instead of being open all the time which caused me a noticeable loss in low end torque

Or you can just pull the plate out completely and eliminate the IABs

 

Anyone ever try to put a bolt in there inplace of the holes?

 

just take the plate out completely.

 

Yah i was thinking i would just remove the plate. I don't want to spend money on a blacktrax plate since my DD is on a strict budget. Thanks guys for all the replies.