i took mine off and the nipple is completely gone...been snapped off...im going to order a new one but my question today is theres supposed to be a hose there, yet there isnt, im going to get some hoses but where did that one lead to?

also the throttle body has a nipple on the bottom and theres no hose attached there...where does that one lead to?

 

alright so i looked up on the honda parts store for water hoses and those were on there but when i looked in the engine bay it looks like someone was bypassing the FITV completely bc the hoses that are meant for the FITV are going to the iacv


also the white screw like ring inside the fitv was loose..we tightened it down...should i just bolt it back on and see if it stops?

 

Lots of people have done the FITV bypass and not had any problems as long as the FITV air ports to the throttle body have been properly blocked off. If they are not it will cause problems.

If you want to keep the FITV then I would suggest putting it back on and hooking up all of the required coolant hoses. Bleed your cooling system and see what that does for you. If you are still getting vacuum from the FIT port after the engine has come up to op temperature (Radiator Fan Cycles twice). Replace the FIT valve. To see if there is vacuum the FIT port is the bottom port if you look inside the throttle body. Indicated with a red arrow......



On the other hand if you do not want the FIT valve you can remove it completely and replace it with a block off plate made from a small piece of sheet metal and gasket material.

Here is what my old setup looked like with the FITV Bypass.
The images are with the throttle body upside down.





And the hose routing for the bypass if you don't already have it done.



The pink line is the bypass hose routing. If this doesn't make any sense to you just say the word and I'll see if I can explain it better.

Ran it for 2 complete years in the cold north with no problems. If I wanted my engine to warm up faster I just held the RPMs to 2500 with my foot.

 

You will adjust the white ring after it is fully warmed up, it needs to breath while the engine is warming up so over loosen it until you are fully warm, the engine may surge but you will take care of that with your final adjustment.

 

hey ghostaccord see how that pink bypass line is drawn thats all i have going...i tightened that white o-ring and put the fitv back on like it was and no my car idles at like 500 haha its so quiet..i dont have the time or money to run all new hoses and a new fitv...what will i damage with it running like it is, theres none or VERY little suction with that hole inside the throttle body so im not sure if i should just keep driving it, my dad is pretty pissed at the car and wants to trade it in and truthfully i dont blame him bc i really would like a 5spd..but right now running as is, what would it hurt? and how long would it last?

 

It won't hurt anything mechanically running it like you have it. Even if your getting a hunting/surging idle. It's more of an annoyance than anything. If you tightened the air bypass collar (white) as far in as you could have then you have basically made the FITV closed at all times. That is as long as your air bypass valve spring is still strong........

Here is how it works,



When the coolant temp is low the air bypass valve (Green arrow) will be retracted into the body of the FITV. This allows air to pass from the intake port (Red arrow), which is connected to the bottom port in the throttle body. Through the FIT and out the manifold port (Blue arrow). This port is connected to the other side of the throttle plate.

When the coolant is hot it expands the wax inside this bras container (Yellow arrow). In turn pushing the small brass rod into the stem of the air bypass valve pushing it closed against the white collar. Stopping the flow of air through the body of the FITV.

Push rod and bypass valve rod & spring when the Wax ball is cold



When up to operating temp.

 

Even though the white collar is adjustable, when it finally needs adjusted from old age, it is really saying that the wax pellet is wearing out. Many Honda techs will just go ahead and change the entire part, but from the looks of this post, your angle is to allow bypass air until the engine fully warms up and then adjust the white collar to stop air flow through the green area. It should be fine, if the wax pellet is pushing up far enough for the white collar to block off air flow at full or near full adjustment.

 

truthfully, if it was up to me, i would rather have a car with none of these "technical assistants" but i guess i dont have a choice at this moment so yeah ill just drive it like a cars meant to be driven and hope it lasts me til i can afford something that is a little more "me".

what kinda of accord do you have?
i wish i could get a fully built engine in a coupe a f22 or a h22 and 5 spd tranny...id actually take a 98 v6 accord, i heard they can get up there (but they dont come in manual) the vtec I4(150hp) does but not the v6(200hp) so i think id rather take the I4 and just push 200hp out with a little help from my friend called tunage lmao (tranny swaps are to hard, but it would be worth it if done properly)