engine bay and door jamb prep and paint (how to w/pics)
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From: melbourne, fl, unitedstates
engine bay and door jamb prep and paint (how to w/pics)
hey there bro's!!! im doing my engine bay this weekend. i started today, the car is a 96 ek hatch. i will do my best to give you the run down but it is after 1am here in the fla. i will have a list of all materials and a rough estimant of the cost at the end. all the pics are from a blackberry.
the beginning: my engine bay was already empty, but remove as much as possible it will turn out much better. i left my brake lines because i didn't have a line wrench. i first removed my whole front end and doors.
this is it, i first sprayed it all down with purple power degreaser and dusted comit over it and washed it with a red 3m scotch pad, all nooks and crannys. this will help with getting all oil and fluid residue off and leave you with scuffed adhearing surface.
next i ground down my only dent in the top of my radiator support and using a 1/16" cut-off wheel removed studs on the fire wall and ground them down with a 36 grit roll-lock on an angle grinder. filled the dent with metal glaze and using a small block and a 100 grit sand paper until flat then finish it of with 180 grit and apply 2k filler primer to the spot.
sorry, i just realized i dont have a pic of the dent repair.
next, sand the entire engine bay and door jambs down with a 3m fine pad its much easier to use than just sand paper, but just so you know it does not feather out chips so well. using 320 grit sand paper feather the deep scratches or chips out. then go back over those spots with the fine pad again. as an extra precaution you can use a super fine pad for metallic paint. then using sem self etching primer lightly dust any bare metal spots. it dries quickly after dry just lightly go over the spots with the fine pad just to break the surface.
after these steps just go over all your spots and areas making sure there is no shine left.
now its taping time. first blow off the car and wipe you future painted areas with wax and grease remover, not degreaser. using 2" tape and a news paper start taping up your lines, windows, ect... i started with my lines. then i went around my windshield making a boarder then laid up and taped down my paper. i used news paper because i left my masking paper at work. when taping my door jambs i left a 1/16" edge open because i will sand it off when preping the outside. make sure paper is pulled tight and all tape is pressed down with no holes.
this is roughly how it should look at the end of the day. tomorrow i will be painting and taking more pics. see you then hope you enjoy.
the beginning: my engine bay was already empty, but remove as much as possible it will turn out much better. i left my brake lines because i didn't have a line wrench. i first removed my whole front end and doors.
this is it, i first sprayed it all down with purple power degreaser and dusted comit over it and washed it with a red 3m scotch pad, all nooks and crannys. this will help with getting all oil and fluid residue off and leave you with scuffed adhearing surface.
next i ground down my only dent in the top of my radiator support and using a 1/16" cut-off wheel removed studs on the fire wall and ground them down with a 36 grit roll-lock on an angle grinder. filled the dent with metal glaze and using a small block and a 100 grit sand paper until flat then finish it of with 180 grit and apply 2k filler primer to the spot.
sorry, i just realized i dont have a pic of the dent repair.
next, sand the entire engine bay and door jambs down with a 3m fine pad its much easier to use than just sand paper, but just so you know it does not feather out chips so well. using 320 grit sand paper feather the deep scratches or chips out. then go back over those spots with the fine pad again. as an extra precaution you can use a super fine pad for metallic paint. then using sem self etching primer lightly dust any bare metal spots. it dries quickly after dry just lightly go over the spots with the fine pad just to break the surface.
after these steps just go over all your spots and areas making sure there is no shine left.
now its taping time. first blow off the car and wipe you future painted areas with wax and grease remover, not degreaser. using 2" tape and a news paper start taping up your lines, windows, ect... i started with my lines. then i went around my windshield making a boarder then laid up and taped down my paper. i used news paper because i left my masking paper at work. when taping my door jambs i left a 1/16" edge open because i will sand it off when preping the outside. make sure paper is pulled tight and all tape is pressed down with no holes.
this is roughly how it should look at the end of the day. tomorrow i will be painting and taking more pics. see you then hope you enjoy.
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alright im back. first things first here is the pics of the dent repair....
okay, so the next morning i went out and wiped the car down down with wax and grease remover, this gives you a nice clean base to start with and also allows you to notice anything left to be fixed. i found quite a few things that needed to be smoothed out and finished off. also wile wiping the car down i noticed some deep sand scratches that i didnt like. i decided to dust of the specialty 2k filler primer over some areas and in the most visable spots (shock towers, front support and jambs). after it dried (about 10 min.) i went over the areas with a worn out fine pad just to break the surface.
now its time to spray, the color i chose was house of kolor cocoa pearl. this color is a urathane base pearl. the mixture is 2:1 two parts color one part reducer. i mixed a little less than half a quart two start out with i used a ppg quart measuring/mixing cup, just asx for two at the paint store and sticks and strainers. after your paint is mixed pour in your cup though a strainer. i suggest using a gravity feed gun hvlp gun. i left my good gun at work and ended up using a piece of **** siphon hvlp gun that dripped from anywhere it could.
after the paint is in the gun connect it to your air hose, its time to mess with the psi adjustments. on the p.o.s. gun i was using i set the pressure to about 18psi, it should take less on a gravity feed. either way you want enough pressure to lay the material on smooth and and damp, not too wet. if the pressure is up too high you will be wasting material. set your fan pattern to be about 5" wide spraying from 6" away. do a test spray out on your paper.
first give a light coat starting with the firewall make sure you hit it at all angles (haha)
get a feel for it. next move on to the shock towers, then to the radiator support then move down and work your way back to the jambs.
repeat step two more times or until covered. make sure your hose is out of the way. you will more than likely have to mix more paint i ended up using about 2/3rds of my quart.
this is what it should look like....
next is clear. i used ppg high solids clear, i chose this clear because i had it at work and im use to using it. the clear mixture is 4:1:1 four parts clear to one part hardener to one part reducer. i over reduced mine by 100% so it was 4:1:2 adding more reducer. i did this because it is easier to spray in this app. it is thinner and will run easier if your not careful.
repeat the same steps as the base but be more careful. the first coat should just be for coverage and getting the feel it wont be slick yet but shiny. i turned my pressure up by about 5psi. and made my fan pattern a bit wider. make sure to check all areas bottom and top for shine and slickness. on my last coat i put a little bit more reducer in it, this helps (melting) it in for optimum flat slickness.
this is what it shoul look like when your done....
this was later that night
the materials:
1 qt h.o.k. cocoa pearl 68$
1 qt ppg dcu2002 clear kit w/hardener 93$
1 qt reducer ppg dc865 35ish
1 can specialty products 2k filler primer 17$
1 can sem self etching primer 15$
4 fine 3m pads stolen maybe like 15 for a pack of six
4 superfine pads same
one sheet of 3m 100grit sand paper
one sheet of 3m 180grit
one sheet of 3m 320grit
one quart evercoat metal glaze 30$ ish
you should be able to do it with $300
it cost me about $160 dont hate.
hit me up if you have any questions. goodluck
okay, so the next morning i went out and wiped the car down down with wax and grease remover, this gives you a nice clean base to start with and also allows you to notice anything left to be fixed. i found quite a few things that needed to be smoothed out and finished off. also wile wiping the car down i noticed some deep sand scratches that i didnt like. i decided to dust of the specialty 2k filler primer over some areas and in the most visable spots (shock towers, front support and jambs). after it dried (about 10 min.) i went over the areas with a worn out fine pad just to break the surface.
now its time to spray, the color i chose was house of kolor cocoa pearl. this color is a urathane base pearl. the mixture is 2:1 two parts color one part reducer. i mixed a little less than half a quart two start out with i used a ppg quart measuring/mixing cup, just asx for two at the paint store and sticks and strainers. after your paint is mixed pour in your cup though a strainer. i suggest using a gravity feed gun hvlp gun. i left my good gun at work and ended up using a piece of **** siphon hvlp gun that dripped from anywhere it could.
after the paint is in the gun connect it to your air hose, its time to mess with the psi adjustments. on the p.o.s. gun i was using i set the pressure to about 18psi, it should take less on a gravity feed. either way you want enough pressure to lay the material on smooth and and damp, not too wet. if the pressure is up too high you will be wasting material. set your fan pattern to be about 5" wide spraying from 6" away. do a test spray out on your paper.
first give a light coat starting with the firewall make sure you hit it at all angles (haha)
get a feel for it. next move on to the shock towers, then to the radiator support then move down and work your way back to the jambs.
repeat step two more times or until covered. make sure your hose is out of the way. you will more than likely have to mix more paint i ended up using about 2/3rds of my quart.
this is what it should look like....
next is clear. i used ppg high solids clear, i chose this clear because i had it at work and im use to using it. the clear mixture is 4:1:1 four parts clear to one part hardener to one part reducer. i over reduced mine by 100% so it was 4:1:2 adding more reducer. i did this because it is easier to spray in this app. it is thinner and will run easier if your not careful.
repeat the same steps as the base but be more careful. the first coat should just be for coverage and getting the feel it wont be slick yet but shiny. i turned my pressure up by about 5psi. and made my fan pattern a bit wider. make sure to check all areas bottom and top for shine and slickness. on my last coat i put a little bit more reducer in it, this helps (melting) it in for optimum flat slickness.
this is what it shoul look like when your done....
this was later that night
the materials:
1 qt h.o.k. cocoa pearl 68$
1 qt ppg dcu2002 clear kit w/hardener 93$
1 qt reducer ppg dc865 35ish
1 can specialty products 2k filler primer 17$
1 can sem self etching primer 15$
4 fine 3m pads stolen maybe like 15 for a pack of six
4 superfine pads same
one sheet of 3m 100grit sand paper
one sheet of 3m 180grit
one sheet of 3m 320grit
one quart evercoat metal glaze 30$ ish
you should be able to do it with $300
it cost me about $160 dont hate.
hit me up if you have any questions. goodluck
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Ok. So when your doing a full colour change, do you follow the same routine, then mask off the jambs slightly inside the jamb line, hit the exterior panles and blend the masked line when paint is cured, or just spray jambs and outer panles all at once, being careful about spray pattern? thnks.
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Ok. So when your doing a full colour change, do you follow the same routine, then mask off the jambs slightly inside the jamb line, hit the exterior panles and blend the masked line when paint is cured, or just spray jambs and outer panles all at once, being careful about spray pattern? thnks.
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its not that easy brougham!!! the holes are way too big to just "bondo" you would have to weld them all up, grind then and then smooth them out. i wasnt quite sure what motor was goin in it when i started it either. i may weld them up in the future though.
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What did you do to take the engine out?
