I just bought a 92 hatch today that has GSR leather front and back seats, but the back seat wont bolt down. How do i fix this??

 

Hmm, I have RSX type S seats in the rear of my 92 hatch and they dont fit quite perfectly. First I have them bolted in the center back. and the bolt holds down a metal wire that extends from the seats. And the outer part of the seat on either side is loose and flops around. BUT theres metal wire on each side kinda like a little loop, and I have to get under the car and push the loop through a hole in "flooring" then slide a bolt through the loop under the car to hold it solid. I hope your seats are similar, take them out look to see what you can secure them with on the actual seat itself. Then look at your hatch and see what you can rig up, you're most likely gonna have to get a little creative.

 

Ok, i will do that. 1 other quik question, is the b16a a good swap for the hatch??

 

HELL YEAH!! I got a b16a1 JDM obd0, really hatchs are the only cars you can swap B16's into and be fast all other cars are just to heavy. I put civic type R cams into mine and its a very noticable differnece, so swapin a B16 will be str8 and if you got the money swap in cams for a real BANG FOR THE BUCK.

 

A friend told me to get crower stage 2 cams, are they top of the line??

 

...No, Toda Vtec killer cams....My brother in law just put crower stage 2 cams in his b16 and their pretty damn cool. Whatever you get you cant get higher than stage 2 or your gonna have to replace valve springs or get a built head and dyno time to tune it,and all that kinda nonsense is big money. Also if you spend all that big cash money to put like stage 3 cams it really takes away from the daily drivability of the car. So I say go ahead with the Brian Crower stage 2 cams cause you dont have to do anything else to the head, and you will be pleased cause you'll feel vtec like never before!!!

 

Sorry man but simply "swapping cams" w/o a tune will simply not do much for you. The larger cam/lobes etc are not intended to run on the stock ecu w/o some sort of tuning so in turn you will not "feel vtec like never before!!" most likely you'll feel your engine blow due to not upgrading your valvetrain ie. springs, retainers, etc and not getting the proper tune to run these cams. Theres a reason you are supposed to upgrade valvetrain when putting in stage 2 crower cams. A tune is necessary if you want to get any power out of your car and it's not nonsense chief, you need to spend money to get your vehicle to run correctly and well. If you get a built head the cams would be involved in building it so if you go over stage 2 then you wouldn't buy a seperate built head haha. Just save up and throw that b16 in there preferably an obd1 or 2 none of that obd0 nonsense, it would be a much simpler swap for someone beginning like you. Good luck man

 

What!?!? You dont have to upgrade your valvetrain for stage 2, for stage 3 yeah. Whats wrong with obd0, to complicated for you? I was tryin to keep it simple for him, yeah I tuned my **** with cam gears and a chipped ecu. All he needs is the cams and cam gears, and I thought the tuning part when you install the cams is a given.

 

OBD0 is not too complicated, eg's are OBD1 so why not just put and OBD1 makes wiring easier that's why i said that. You SHOULD upgrade your valvetrain if your upgrading cams, what's the point. The tuning part when installing the cams is not given and when you buy a chipped ecu it is chipped so that it may be tuned ie. Hondata, Crome, etc. Obviously it's not too complicated for me if i built my itr for my eg and tuned it at speedfactory. I was just suggesting to not mess with anything internal and just swap in the b16 until he is dissatisfied. No offense you you T3KNiQe.

 

No offense taken. All I got to say is I got 90,000 miles without a built valvetrain on my build and using nitrous and the **** is str8. I prefer obd0 cause they act more favorably to modifications due to the lack of emissions, and they got a tincy little bit more clearence between valves and the piston head...among other things I dont wanna type up

 

i say integra backs and civic bottoms but you got leathers and probably dont want to re apolster civy seats

 

Mine is a 92 eg, b16a, chipped ecu, megan header, skunk 2 intake manifold, aem cold intake with 2.25" exhaust. Cat was deleted.

So.... where should i go from there??

 

Light weight fly wheel, and a light weight crank pulley. A light weight crank pulley will add 5-7whp, more than any other modification that you can do to a N/A engine.

 

Should i get stage 2 clutch?? and it has jasma exhaust from header back, should i replace? and with what?

 

Na keep it stock clutch keeps the car easy to drive, putting in aftermarket clutchs make the car a b1tch to drive around town. People say putting clutchs in makes the car faster but thats bullshit, you just have to know how to drive properly and you'll be just as fast. As for exhuast I think the apex'i GT is the best sounding exhuast I've ever heard on a civic, i would say J's Racing 70RR but its like $1500 while apex'i GT you can get from 600 to $700. A lot of people say spoon or apex'i N1, but the N1 has that typical "ricer" tone in the exhuast. Trust me the apex'i GT sounds like a real racing exhust, cause it is!! I got the apex'i GT and no one has ever said my exhust sucks, a matter of fact all I got is compliments saying its the sickest exhust they've ever heard. Trust me.

 

Also the DC sports stainless steel 4-1 header is great for low end torque and high end power, I think its a great 4-1 header for the price hard to find a better deal.

 

It already has a megan racing header, are you saying i should replace it with a dc 4-1??

 

well dc is a better brand and probly more power

 

Ok thanks, i didnt know. So it also has skunk2 intake manifold. Should i go with skunk2 full exhaust also?? I like how it sounds.

 

u could but i agree with t2kniqe apexi gt spec sounds great i am lookin into one now

 

So you saying a lightened flywheel and a aftermarket clutch will be the same you need to go back to school or read some more on honda-tech my friend you know nothing.

 

No you ****ing idiot I didn't say **** about them being the same. He asked if he should put in a stage 2 clutch, I said no keep it stock to keep it easy to drive around town. Secondly he listed everything he had down and asked me what he should do next, I said install a light weight flywheel and a light weight crank pulley ( did you know a light weight crank pulley will add more whp than any other modification to a N/A engine?? bet you didn't ). So before you tell me to go back to school and read, why don't you READ the ****ing thread, understand whats going on, then make A EDUCATED POST to help the man and not be critical of me for bullshit I never typed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!