hey guys, i was just wondering if anyone is running hondata and toda c's?, i cant get my car to idle at all, with toda c's and hondata 2. also how do i go about chekcing engine codes on the hondata? same as normal? also who would you recomend to tune toda c's? its a built itr, with 11.4:1 comp, pistons, rods, ported and polished head, cam gears, toda header, 70mm tbody tapered down to 64, power enterprises timing belt, full toda valve train?

 

what stage do you have?

easiest thing to do is get the proggy from a hondata dealer who has decent maps (like sgT)...

Otherwise, I hope you have stage 4... play with the maps for 800-1000rpms at partial throttle...

 

North Dakota? Good God!

Can you say road trip?

I'd suggest SgT as he's familar with both the Spec C's and Hondata.

Good luck

 

haha yeah yeah, one more problem now, with the base tuning maps im running now its ok for driving, but one problem, i was cruising around last night, all of a sudden the thing throws a code 22 2 short adn then one long, its repeative in that order so im assuming 22 which is presure valve, only problem is, it wont go away even when i reset the ecu, and this has never happened before, i checked oil level, then changed oil and still it comes back, and this is just with it idling. the hondata light is red and stays constant. the box is blue and im running the stage 2 with a p28,.

 

1 long 2 short is code 12
IACV

 

Did someone say IACV? I know all about it! Except its code 14 on my kaa.

RatedR: whos civic barely idles and when given gas to 1500 rpms the rpm needle just bounces like its hitting the rev limiter.

 

you are right, IAC is 14
codes are same across all hondas.
12 is EGR......... which doesnt exist on the itr

 

Funny thing. I swapped 2 plugs just now and then checked the codes again. Well code 14 is now gone Only code 1 remains.

But there is still something funny about my idle even though the code is not showing now. Cause its always been rough and sometimes fluxuated (sp?)
Theres another thing on the intake manifold on my car towards the very right. Has one screw, a vaccum line in and a vaccum line out the bottom and one connector going in. There a black drum looking thing that sits on top of it. Well this thing has a crack in it...wonder if that would cause a bad idle?

 

If its on top of the manifold has a 2 pin conn. check and see if it goes to the charcol canister if it does then thats you evap purge valve and if its cracked will cause a vaccum leak and will screw with your idle. Oh and toda-C's are just like B's non vtec they will have a slight roughness to the idle nothing extreme but not buttery smooth either.

 

oki oki sory sory, its 2 short and then 2 fast, so 22, i typed that stuff wrong. any ideas here?>