east coast hondata tuning
Well, I recently purchased a Hondata 2B for a '99 Integra GSR w/ the Greddy GSR turbo kit @ 9psi. I'm planning to get me car tuned at Podium Peformance in NH...(they told me I need 4 hours of tuning for $400, does this price should about right?)
Should I increase the boost to 10psi tuned with Hondata? or would it be too much for a stock B18C motor? How much whp and trq should I expect when the car is fully tuned @ 9psi? and @ 10psi?
Should I increase the boost to 10psi tuned with Hondata? or would it be too much for a stock B18C motor? How much whp and trq should I expect when the car is fully tuned @ 9psi? and @ 10psi?
Podium has a tuning session on the 10th if your interested, call them. I'll be there. And I'm planning to run around 10 psi on the track with my d16z6 with headstuds and a new oem headgasket and 6 psi daily. 4 hours seems about right considering Gruuvytune said it would take about that long doing street tuning on a wideband and I'm expecting about that much tuning time for my car too.
a word of warning...if you are going to be driving this car on the street, i recommend you have then wideband tune on the street. I do this for a fee of $75 an hour and it takes about 4hrs to get it right. I have had 4 people in the past 2 weeks (not including myself) who have had their cars dyno tuned with a wideband, paid hundreds of dollars, only to find out their car has all sorts of hesitation problems on the street in daily driving. I went the route of doing wideband street tuning because I didn't want to waste any more of my money and because the concept is right. Hondata provides a very effective means of doing this.
If I could be of any help let me know but please think this through before you shell out money for tuning!
Torin
If I could be of any help let me know but please think this through before you shell out money for tuning!
Torin
I actually purchased a base map from Podium for the GReddy GSR setup and I planning to go to them for tuning... (wouldn't Podium be using wideband tuning)
but GruvyTune how far of a drive would it be from Boston, MA?
but GruvyTune how far of a drive would it be from Boston, MA?
Gruvytune is right about the street tuning
Just because it's making the most power in 3000->9000ish rpm dyno pulls doesn't mean it's gonna run well on the street......
I'd suggest 2 hours or so of on-dyno tuning for maximum safe power, and then 2 hours of street tuning to make sure drivability is where it should be.......you shouldn't need more than 2 hours on the dyno for max power if you already have a base map and your tuner knows what they're doing...
At 9lbs, we tuned our shop 'teg (hondata 4b) to make 238 whp in one hour, and that included tuning it for 5 lbs, upping the boost to 7, tuning that, then upping to 9 and tuning that......and drivability was perfect right off the dyno....
It's now running 14lbs and a 35 shot
Stock motor, and the rest of the tuning we've done with a wideband on the street......once the JG intake manifold gets in, it'll go back on the dyno....
BTW, Gruvytunes $75 an hour for street wideband tuning is very reasonable, we charge $80 an hour just FYI....
Brian
Just because it's making the most power in 3000->9000ish rpm dyno pulls doesn't mean it's gonna run well on the street......I'd suggest 2 hours or so of on-dyno tuning for maximum safe power, and then 2 hours of street tuning to make sure drivability is where it should be.......you shouldn't need more than 2 hours on the dyno for max power if you already have a base map and your tuner knows what they're doing...
At 9lbs, we tuned our shop 'teg (hondata 4b) to make 238 whp in one hour, and that included tuning it for 5 lbs, upping the boost to 7, tuning that, then upping to 9 and tuning that......and drivability was perfect right off the dyno....
It's now running 14lbs and a 35 shot
Stock motor, and the rest of the tuning we've done with a wideband on the street......once the JG intake manifold gets in, it'll go back on the dyno....BTW, Gruvytunes $75 an hour for street wideband tuning is very reasonable, we charge $80 an hour just FYI....
Brian
So GruvyTune does street wideband tuning... I should be going to a dyno first and then I should go to Gruvytune for street wideband tuning? or is it reversed?
Where are you located Firedrake?
Where are you located Firedrake?
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We're down in Albuquerque, New Mexico
Sean (lbz34 on here) is willing to fly out to tune Hondata setups, but that gets really expensive really quick, so if you have a local tuner who knows what he's doing, you're better off going that route.
Take it to the dyno first, and tune it for whatever your goal is (a certain amount of boost, certain horsepower level, etc).....you said you want to run 10lbs, so tune it to make the max power at 10lbs with a good a/f ratio....if the car isn't knocking and seems to be doing well, maybe up the boost to 12lbs or so and see how much more power you're getting.....if you like it at 12lbs, tune for that
.....remember to tune your VTEC xover while you're at it (do a pull on all low cam, then all high cam, and set xover to be where the horsepower graphs cross)
After you get done setting the car up for maximum power on the dyno, have it street tuned to tweak all the little settings and make it run smoothly all the time. Play with timing and fuel until you like the way it behaves at various rpm and throttle levels. This is the part where the tuning gets difficult
After that, you're done!
Brian
Sean (lbz34 on here) is willing to fly out to tune Hondata setups, but that gets really expensive really quick, so if you have a local tuner who knows what he's doing, you're better off going that route.Take it to the dyno first, and tune it for whatever your goal is (a certain amount of boost, certain horsepower level, etc).....you said you want to run 10lbs, so tune it to make the max power at 10lbs with a good a/f ratio....if the car isn't knocking and seems to be doing well, maybe up the boost to 12lbs or so and see how much more power you're getting.....if you like it at 12lbs, tune for that
.....remember to tune your VTEC xover while you're at it (do a pull on all low cam, then all high cam, and set xover to be where the horsepower graphs cross)After you get done setting the car up for maximum power on the dyno, have it street tuned to tweak all the little settings and make it run smoothly all the time. Play with timing and fuel until you like the way it behaves at various rpm and throttle levels. This is the part where the tuning gets difficult

After that, you're done!
Brian
It's definately a street car... daily driven.
So what after my dyno session I'll be coming straight to Gruvytune for street tuning. I'll probably be setting up a dyno session with Podium in two weeks.
So what after my dyno session I'll be coming straight to Gruvytune for street tuning. I'll probably be setting up a dyno session with Podium in two weeks.
I would recommend wide band street tuning first. This way you get 80% of the tuning done in the environment in which the car will be run. Later you can go to the dyno to adjust the vtec crossover point and make slight alterations to the ignition timing.
This way you know the car will be running well on the street during the time period between your street tuning and dyno tuning. Where as the car may not be running as well with strictly a dyno tuning session.
Check out the Hondata website, Doug has a lot to say about tuning and especially the merits of wideband street tuning.
[Modified by LEON, 12:36 PM 8/1/2002]
This way you know the car will be running well on the street during the time period between your street tuning and dyno tuning. Where as the car may not be running as well with strictly a dyno tuning session.
Check out the Hondata website, Doug has a lot to say about tuning and especially the merits of wideband street tuning.
[Modified by LEON, 12:36 PM 8/1/2002]
GRRRR....no!!!
if you street tune you don't need the dyno. save yer money!! use any extra money and buy a used J&S safeguard for that extra insurance. i just got one myself!
use the dyno AFTER the street tune to fine tune the WOT tuning in boost and fine tune the timing and cam gears.
PLEASE!! dont take my word about this. ask people who learned the hard way. I am not out to steal your money. I don't want people to make the same mistakes as I did.
if you street tune you don't need the dyno. save yer money!! use any extra money and buy a used J&S safeguard for that extra insurance. i just got one myself!
use the dyno AFTER the street tune to fine tune the WOT tuning in boost and fine tune the timing and cam gears.
PLEASE!! dont take my word about this. ask people who learned the hard way. I am not out to steal your money. I don't want people to make the same mistakes as I did.
I agree that do the street tuning and you should not need the dyno tune, unless you want to verify HP and TQ reading. Also, I would go one step further by using the J&S during the street wideband tuning to identify any knock condition. Having the J&S allows you to further fine tune the A/F and timing.
Here is a sample of street tuning result using a FJO setup. This run was done in third gear at about 2k rpm.

[Modified by JT, 11:31 PM 8/1/2002]
Here is a sample of street tuning result using a FJO setup. This run was done in third gear at about 2k rpm.

[Modified by JT, 11:31 PM 8/1/2002]
I still stand by my opinion of doing max power dyno tuning first, then doing street tuning. This way, you tune the car to the most power it'll make at the dyno (and you actually know how much power it was making pre-dyno-tuning and when you're done), and then change necessary stuff for drivability during street tuning (making less power than the dyno numbers you put up) but this way you know you're making the most street drivable power possible......just make sure your dyno is putting a LOT of fans/air on the intercooler to avoid heatsoak....
If you street tune first, you'll get the car running well with safe A/F ratios, but you'll have no idea how much power you're making while you're tuning on the street. Then you can take it to the dyno and put down some numbers, but if you change stuff on the dyno it could affect your drivability and you'll need to tune again on the street......
Besides, everyone I know likes to have pre-tuning dyno #'s anyways.....
Brian
If you street tune first, you'll get the car running well with safe A/F ratios, but you'll have no idea how much power you're making while you're tuning on the street. Then you can take it to the dyno and put down some numbers, but if you change stuff on the dyno it could affect your drivability and you'll need to tune again on the street......
Besides, everyone I know likes to have pre-tuning dyno #'s anyways.....
Brian
So which one is it... dyno tune first and then fine tune with Gruvytune?
btw I have the MSD SCI ignition, do I even need this....? should I remove it?
btw I have the MSD SCI ignition, do I even need this....? should I remove it?
ok, listen....why would you want to first take it to the dyno and then street tune it? You want to get your initial wideband accomplished on the part throttle so you will get a flat wideband curve as you ramp up on the dyno to full throttle. anyway with good street tuning you will have your full throttle runs pretty much nailed down anyway. you will only add or subtract at the dyno in the boost regions to see if you can extract more power at the high end by fine tuning there. why would you want to do it backwards?
anyway, i'm done with arguing this point. logistically it makes no sense to street tune after dyno tuning. If steve at sgt is going to provide street tuning then that is awesome because from what I have heard he is a very knowledgeable and fine tuner.
[Modified by GruvyTune, 9:10 PM 8/1/2002]
anyway, i'm done with arguing this point. logistically it makes no sense to street tune after dyno tuning. If steve at sgt is going to provide street tuning then that is awesome because from what I have heard he is a very knowledgeable and fine tuner.
[Modified by GruvyTune, 9:10 PM 8/1/2002]
Does anyone know of a good tuner in the lower southeastern region. Say in the Knoxville, TN to Atlanta, GA area.
wow! get a hondata manifold gasket on that intake mani! thats some hot air going in.


