3rd Times a Charm Teardown and Rebuild - 2000 Si Coupe
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: East Providence, RI, USA
3rd Times a Charm Teardown and Rebuild - 2000 Si Coupe
3rd Times a Charm Teardown and Rebuild - 2000 Si Coupe
Well, here we go again. Some people know the story, others don't. Here's a REALLY quick recap.
Bought a 2000 Si about 4 Years ago. Not more then a Year later, the Timing Belt snapped after a new one was poorly installed by a know-it-all Mechanic.Within the next 6 Months, I built a New Motor consisting of the B16 Head and a GSR Block. Obviously there were a lot of other mods included in that build which helped me on the dyno achieve 190whp and 145 lbs. of tq. About 6 Months later, on the way to my first Auto-X Event, the Motor died on me again. This time it was due to the Timing Belt skipping a few teeth and bending some Valves. New Valves were installed and the Car ran fine for 2+ Years. Until about 2 Months ago, when the latest disaster occurred. This was due to a schmuck that helped me build the Motor hacking things up.
So here we are. The 3rd time building a damn Motor for this Car. This time will be quite difficult. I'm living on my own. I have a 2 Year old Daughter, I'm low on Cash, and quite honestly, I'm not too much into the game as I used to be.
I'm aiming for a simple build. Something reliable. And doesn't even need to be powerful. I just want to drive the Car an not have any worries.
This should be interesting.
The Motor and Trans have been removed from the Bay. I also removed the GSR Full Length Radiator and Slim Fans. The Radiator will eventually be replaced with a new one. After that was done, I gave it a pretty good wash considering all the grease/oil build-up that accumulated over the years. The Bay could use some more cleaning, but I'll wait until the Car is brought to its new Home for the next 6-7 Months.
I also took apart the Trans and painted it Cast Aluminum. Paint looks really good and I plan on Painting the Block and Head this way also. I still have to remove the starter, mask that off in some certain spots, and paint that black along with some misc. brackets. Black of course.
I was also able to do a very small wire tuck on the Headlight wiring running along the sides of the engine bay, and cleaned up some of the other exposed wires. Don't want to go to crazy with a wire tuck though.
I also removed all the old Electrical Tape and Wire Loom from the Engine Harness. I re wrapped the Engine Harness with Electrical Tape, and when I get a chance, I'll be ordering some Flexo Self Wrapping Braided Sleeving from www.Wirecare.com, and wrapping over the Black Electrical Tape to freshen up the Harness. Since I'm not doing a full tuck, the harness will be exposed so I want it to look as clean as possible.
The Drivers Side Motor Mount was no good so a few Years ago, we welded it to the Frame. Yea, stupid idea I know. So I had to grind off the welds and remove the old stripped bolts. I was able to remove 2 bolts but I can't get the third one, that's in the back, out. Not sure if its safe to just run the mount with 2 bolts, but when I get access to better tools, I'm going to try to drill it out somehow. I also picked up a brand new OEM Mount off of a friend for $20.
The Red F1Spec Bucket Seat was sold along with my Crow Harness. Stock Seat is in, and most likely will remain that way. If I do plan on upgrading the Seats, I will DEFINITELY be going with a Reclinable one. I also decided to trade my Polished Nippon Racing TE-37 Copy Rims for some Silver Konig Heliums. The Rims were FILTHY. A Buddy of mine had them on His Hatch running some Cobalt GT Pads, so there is a **** LOAD of brake dust on the rims. I was able to clean 2 of them so well that you can't even tell they were filthy. The other 2, not so lucky. There is brake dust caked on there to the point where it won't come off. I don't know what to do. I'm going to look into a strong Acid based cleaning agent to get rid of the brake dust.
This is the plan for the new Block Build.
B16 Block
Fresh Hone
Deck the Block
Polish the Crank
Stock B16 Rods or Eagle Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
ACL Main and Rod Bearings
OEM B16 Oil Pump
RS Machine Standard Bore CTR Pistons
ARP B16 Head Studs
OEM B16 Timing Belt
So far I've picked up a Brand New OEM Head Gasket, Water Pump, Timing Belt, and some used USDM ITR Head Studs. Unfortunately, since I'm going with a B16 I have to get rid of the GSR Timing Belt and ITR Head Studs since they can't be used. Tomorrow I should be scoring a bare B16 Block for $75. The hopefully by next Weekend I can have the Car moved to my Girlfriends Mom's House so I can use the Garage and be nice and warm this Winter
Other plans I have for the Car
Convert Fuel Lines to Stainless -6AN Hoses
Custom Gold and Chrome Beauty Washers
Paint Miscellaneous Brackets Black
Paint Header and Wrap It OR Buy a New Header
Remove Front Suspension, Paint Parts, and install with all new hardware
I'm also debating on whether I should sell my Hondata and go with another program to tune the new Motor.
There's a lot of work ahead of me in the upcoming months. And I will be documenting the whole process along with a ton of pics.
For now, this is all I have, but I will try to get pics of my progress up this Weekend.
Ant
Well, here we go again. Some people know the story, others don't. Here's a REALLY quick recap.
Bought a 2000 Si about 4 Years ago. Not more then a Year later, the Timing Belt snapped after a new one was poorly installed by a know-it-all Mechanic.Within the next 6 Months, I built a New Motor consisting of the B16 Head and a GSR Block. Obviously there were a lot of other mods included in that build which helped me on the dyno achieve 190whp and 145 lbs. of tq. About 6 Months later, on the way to my first Auto-X Event, the Motor died on me again. This time it was due to the Timing Belt skipping a few teeth and bending some Valves. New Valves were installed and the Car ran fine for 2+ Years. Until about 2 Months ago, when the latest disaster occurred. This was due to a schmuck that helped me build the Motor hacking things up.
So here we are. The 3rd time building a damn Motor for this Car. This time will be quite difficult. I'm living on my own. I have a 2 Year old Daughter, I'm low on Cash, and quite honestly, I'm not too much into the game as I used to be.
I'm aiming for a simple build. Something reliable. And doesn't even need to be powerful. I just want to drive the Car an not have any worries.
This should be interesting.
The Motor and Trans have been removed from the Bay. I also removed the GSR Full Length Radiator and Slim Fans. The Radiator will eventually be replaced with a new one. After that was done, I gave it a pretty good wash considering all the grease/oil build-up that accumulated over the years. The Bay could use some more cleaning, but I'll wait until the Car is brought to its new Home for the next 6-7 Months.
I also took apart the Trans and painted it Cast Aluminum. Paint looks really good and I plan on Painting the Block and Head this way also. I still have to remove the starter, mask that off in some certain spots, and paint that black along with some misc. brackets. Black of course.
I was also able to do a very small wire tuck on the Headlight wiring running along the sides of the engine bay, and cleaned up some of the other exposed wires. Don't want to go to crazy with a wire tuck though.
I also removed all the old Electrical Tape and Wire Loom from the Engine Harness. I re wrapped the Engine Harness with Electrical Tape, and when I get a chance, I'll be ordering some Flexo Self Wrapping Braided Sleeving from www.Wirecare.com, and wrapping over the Black Electrical Tape to freshen up the Harness. Since I'm not doing a full tuck, the harness will be exposed so I want it to look as clean as possible.
The Drivers Side Motor Mount was no good so a few Years ago, we welded it to the Frame. Yea, stupid idea I know. So I had to grind off the welds and remove the old stripped bolts. I was able to remove 2 bolts but I can't get the third one, that's in the back, out. Not sure if its safe to just run the mount with 2 bolts, but when I get access to better tools, I'm going to try to drill it out somehow. I also picked up a brand new OEM Mount off of a friend for $20.
The Red F1Spec Bucket Seat was sold along with my Crow Harness. Stock Seat is in, and most likely will remain that way. If I do plan on upgrading the Seats, I will DEFINITELY be going with a Reclinable one. I also decided to trade my Polished Nippon Racing TE-37 Copy Rims for some Silver Konig Heliums. The Rims were FILTHY. A Buddy of mine had them on His Hatch running some Cobalt GT Pads, so there is a **** LOAD of brake dust on the rims. I was able to clean 2 of them so well that you can't even tell they were filthy. The other 2, not so lucky. There is brake dust caked on there to the point where it won't come off. I don't know what to do. I'm going to look into a strong Acid based cleaning agent to get rid of the brake dust.
This is the plan for the new Block Build.
B16 Block
Fresh Hone
Deck the Block
Polish the Crank
Stock B16 Rods or Eagle Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
ACL Main and Rod Bearings
OEM B16 Oil Pump
RS Machine Standard Bore CTR Pistons
ARP B16 Head Studs
OEM B16 Timing Belt
So far I've picked up a Brand New OEM Head Gasket, Water Pump, Timing Belt, and some used USDM ITR Head Studs. Unfortunately, since I'm going with a B16 I have to get rid of the GSR Timing Belt and ITR Head Studs since they can't be used. Tomorrow I should be scoring a bare B16 Block for $75. The hopefully by next Weekend I can have the Car moved to my Girlfriends Mom's House so I can use the Garage and be nice and warm this Winter
Other plans I have for the Car
Convert Fuel Lines to Stainless -6AN Hoses
Custom Gold and Chrome Beauty Washers
Paint Miscellaneous Brackets Black
Paint Header and Wrap It OR Buy a New Header
Remove Front Suspension, Paint Parts, and install with all new hardware
I'm also debating on whether I should sell my Hondata and go with another program to tune the new Motor.
There's a lot of work ahead of me in the upcoming months. And I will be documenting the whole process along with a ton of pics.
For now, this is all I have, but I will try to get pics of my progress up this Weekend.
Ant
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: East Providence, RI, USA
Picked up the Block this past Weekend. From what I can see, everything looks like its in good condition. Just missing Pistons and Rods and Oil Pump which is fine since those would all be replaced anyways.
The Block is a JDM B16. Comes with a factory oil cooler which is pretty cool.
Other then that, there has been no progress. Car will be moved this Weekend to its resting place for the winter.
Don't know for sure if I will be keeping the Car though. I owe over $1500 on the Car Payment for being so late. If I don't pay it by this Friday, the repo man will be coming. I can hide the Car till I come up with the Money, but that will take at least 3 Weeks. I donno if tha'ts gonna be good.
Anyone ever deal with a repo before? What happens if you hide the Car? I know there will be obvious fees. But what can I expect if I hide the Car?
Time are real hard for me and my family right now and this is just the tip of the iceburg. Hopefully I can pull through.
The Block is a JDM B16. Comes with a factory oil cooler which is pretty cool.
Other then that, there has been no progress. Car will be moved this Weekend to its resting place for the winter.
Don't know for sure if I will be keeping the Car though. I owe over $1500 on the Car Payment for being so late. If I don't pay it by this Friday, the repo man will be coming. I can hide the Car till I come up with the Money, but that will take at least 3 Weeks. I donno if tha'ts gonna be good.
Anyone ever deal with a repo before? What happens if you hide the Car? I know there will be obvious fees. But what can I expect if I hide the Car?
Time are real hard for me and my family right now and this is just the tip of the iceburg. Hopefully I can pull through.
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