contemplating killing my honda
alright so if you've seen my threads before then you probably are thinking, why do you still have it? this car is straight up bi polar and has a major jealousy problem
so my idle problem just became a dilemma, i have 2 options: waste my money on a bunch of little things like a new iacv, the sensor(rivited on) or an expensive complete throttle body assy.
the issue: now if you have been reading my threads, you know that my car use to run at a really low rpm, now it randomly changed to a high one...also it use to, when parked, rev on its own from 700-1500, now its from 1200-2500....thats been a reoccuring problem, now the new problem...when im driving around and then i stop at a light sometimes it will start revving, WHEN IN D4...wtf, thats just like retarted...but when i take my foot off the break it stops.
well i called my friend and he told my get a new iacv for 30-40$ at a junkyard or order it online used for like 45$...he also said that it could be some sort of black air sensor located on the rear of the throttle body but he said it is rivetted on
please give me some more insight, my friend told me but i dont remember anything unless its written down...
also, if you were I, would you take into concideration bringing the car to a honda dealership and pay them to actually tell hey son its your _______ and itll cost you ______. and then just do it with the help of someone that knows there way around honda engines.
so my idle problem just became a dilemma, i have 2 options: waste my money on a bunch of little things like a new iacv, the sensor(rivited on) or an expensive complete throttle body assy.
the issue: now if you have been reading my threads, you know that my car use to run at a really low rpm, now it randomly changed to a high one...also it use to, when parked, rev on its own from 700-1500, now its from 1200-2500....thats been a reoccuring problem, now the new problem...when im driving around and then i stop at a light sometimes it will start revving, WHEN IN D4...wtf, thats just like retarted...but when i take my foot off the break it stops.
well i called my friend and he told my get a new iacv for 30-40$ at a junkyard or order it online used for like 45$...he also said that it could be some sort of black air sensor located on the rear of the throttle body but he said it is rivetted on
please give me some more insight, my friend told me but i dont remember anything unless its written down...
also, if you were I, would you take into concideration bringing the car to a honda dealership and pay them to actually tell hey son its your _______ and itll cost you ______. and then just do it with the help of someone that knows there way around honda engines.
yes, try tightening the iacv, clean it, if that doesnt work...
then the black thing you are refering to is called a tps or throttle position sensor.
doubtful thats your issue but you can check!
i would lean towards iacv being loose, depending on motor i may or may not be able to guide you through repair.
f22 is by im and has 3 screws, remove top, you will see a valve inside.
h22 is ficv under the tb.
take a big flat head and press down and tighten till it wont any further without stripping. the rotate loose a 1/8th of a turn or so to allow some fluctuation.
report back
then the black thing you are refering to is called a tps or throttle position sensor.
doubtful thats your issue but you can check!
i would lean towards iacv being loose, depending on motor i may or may not be able to guide you through repair.
f22 is by im and has 3 screws, remove top, you will see a valve inside.
h22 is ficv under the tb.
take a big flat head and press down and tighten till it wont any further without stripping. the rotate loose a 1/8th of a turn or so to allow some fluctuation.
report back
You may have an issue with your brake booster.
Disconnect the heavy vacuum hose to it, brock off the hose to the engine and start the car. If it idles better - there's your problem.
A warning here. IF this is the problem, then a question must be asked.
Has the Master Cylinder ever been replaced or inspected recently?
Why?
A fluid leak from the Master Cylinder can damage the diaphram in the brake booster (causing a vacume leak when the brake is applied)
P
Disconnect the heavy vacuum hose to it, brock off the hose to the engine and start the car. If it idles better - there's your problem.
A warning here. IF this is the problem, then a question must be asked.
Has the Master Cylinder ever been replaced or inspected recently?
Why?
A fluid leak from the Master Cylinder can damage the diaphram in the brake booster (causing a vacume leak when the brake is applied)
P
yeah but i have no idea what the brake booster is. my friend told me i could have a vacuum leak so im guessing he knows what to do, but would you mind telling me what to do...last night, seriously, i was fixing to drive it to a dealership and take a kick in the nuts bc it was pissing me off so much...my friend said that if its my iacv then its not hurting anything but its just annoying and he said he replaced his and it stopped but he didnt have it happening when he was in drive, stopped
your friend also said it could be "a black air sensor on the rear of the throttle body" so yea that speaks for itself...but heres a plan if you want to keep this car(for your benefit)...invest in a repair manual as this will save you money and just do work on it yourself...alot of times parts just need to be cleaned...there are the occasions it will need to be replaced, but it sounds like the classic iacv idle surge issue so try that first
ay i just went to my buddys house, its not the brake booster hoses...we check everything and we came to the conclusion its the iacv, id do that but if i fukkk it up then i have no ride to work so id rather not take any chances and just wait till i get another one, that or go to the junkyard and find a 94 accord and take that thing out!
I wasn't pointing at the hose as the culprit, but the booster itself.
I suggested disconnecting the hose and then blocking the HOSE off. If the idle improved with the hose sealed, then that would have pointed to ...
the booster.
P
I suggested disconnecting the hose and then blocking the HOSE off. If the idle improved with the hose sealed, then that would have pointed to ...
the booster.
P
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P_Adams- I checked the booster it still has the idle issue.
Checking out the car in person today i came to the conclusion that its def the iavc. Kevin just cant describe himself well, disregard his silly wording. I'm not that dumb.
dikhead haha, like i said i forget things immediately so when you told me dude, 10 minutes later i was like wait was is 25rkfiu94 or ansgiu4 hahaha when really it was iacv...im just not honda savvy, i know more than the average human but im no P_Adams XD
but IMO this isn't going to completely solve your idle problem, cleaning your FITV will, ocated on the intake manifold. Just take it out and give it a good cleaning. Leave us posted on you're results.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A%2A-how-%2A%2A%2A-clean-your-fitv-aka-fast-idle-thermo-valve-1564019/
if it isn'tthe iavc, check your thermostat andcoolant level. I've own many honda/acuras over the years and low coolant levels can cause the idle to surge like that. also check all the vacuum lines and make sure there all in their proper places. sometimes the coolant line goingto the throttle body get pluged up and cause the surginging issues. thy that if the iavc isn't the problem
Tell u wat, those accords can except h22s and h23 non-vtecs on the stock 5-speeds and automatics. I've done those swaps with the H23 non vtec and that can was a screamer. I had alot of weight reduction and suspension goodies but you also can do alot with a hatch or a coupe to man. I know I get these problems and I just keep on it until its all good. Its all in wat u like u know man
haha yeah i wish i could do a manual swap, all ive heard is how much work and the clutch...its just a lot easier to buy an eg or ef and just have it all ready for me...i just need to find someone with the heart for an accord
Yeah you really gotta know wat your doin to swap to a 5-speed. With the way gas is in some places( right now its down to 1.95/reg in western Pa 2.29/93octane) you will find someone to buy that car for a good price. Like you said get it runnin flawlessly clean it up real good interior and exterior and someone will take. Like my dad tells me when we sell cars "Try to catch a fool!" hahaha meaning find someone thats stupid enough to pay top dollar. I've sold rust bucket 88-89 Prelude Si out here I'd get for 200 bucks, drop in a 300 dollar motor and get 1800 bucks making a total of 1300 out of the deal. If you can get wat you paid or even a little less consider that you got your moneys worth. Besides egs, whether hatch, coupe, 4dr, or del sol handle great and aftermarket parts are gettin cheap and there is way more swap options. I thinks it will all work out in the end bud
to mugen92acintls yeah i know man, im starting to love these gas prices and also...a turbo on ebay is ****** cheap! i could get an teg and get a 6 psi boost and id be at like 200whp, it would be fast as all hellll
anyone in florida that knows someone looking for a blank canvas accord to make amazing? since ive gotten it when i payed $2200 for it and put $1400 and ive already put ads in the paper for 2700$ so im basically taking a kick in the sack id love to keep it but ive been saving and im trying to get enough for this so that the money i have and the money i get from selling it will get me a running integra or just something speedy with a 5 speed



