Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Auto to Manual swap, FI E/M fuse keeps popping

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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 04:32 PM
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Default Auto to Manual swap, FI E/M fuse keeps popping

So I just did a auto to manual swap on a 97 dx y7 and after repinning the ecu (moved a14 to a12 and removed a13) I went to go and fire it up and the battery seemed dead. I had my brother jump it for me and it now turns over but won't fire up. Went and checked the underhood fuses and the f/i was popped. No problem replaced it and as soon as my brother turned the car over I saw a spark come from that exact spot. Any ideas??
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 04:37 PM
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re check all your wires...kinda generic answer but it could be quite a few diffrent things.
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 05:34 PM
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check them for what?
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Old Nov 21, 2008 | 02:20 PM
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to see if they are all connected right.
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Old Nov 26, 2008 | 12:23 PM
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that help is useless. Does anyone have SPECIFIC help?
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 10:14 AM
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well we dont own your car and we didnt do the swap so thre isnst much we can say.
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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 10:24 AM
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I dont know what you mean by the f\i fuse but a better description I can look up some wiring diagrams and try to help you track down the short.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gsrhatch2356
I dont know what you mean by the f\i fuse but a better description I can look up some wiring diagrams and try to help you track down the short.
Fuse 44 under the hood the Fi e/m fuse. Interestingly enough, that fuse is popping as soon as the key goes to the ignition position while the under dash fuse is intact...
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 05:42 PM
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well your pretty lucky, the only thing on that fuse is the main relay so, First thing I would do is unplug relay and see if the fuse still pops while it is removed. if the fuse dosent pop then the relay could be internaly shorted, or fuel pump could be shorted, injectors, computer. pretty much anything that relay supplies power to. the only way to really find out is unplug each thing one at a time and while it is unpluged turn key hot and see if it blows. take in mind if it is a short in the wiring then even if it is unplugged then it still can blow the fuse which at that point then i would remove one power wire at a time at the relay untill I could get it down to one circut. this can get expensive with fuses so before you go out and buy a butt load of fuses I would reconmend that you get whats called a fuse buddy whichs is basicly like a trip breaker that can be reset when it is popped but this will still run like 50-80 bucks depending on where you get it from. let me know
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by gsrhatch2356
well your pretty lucky, the only thing on that fuse is the main relay so, First thing I would do is unplug relay and see if the fuse still pops while it is removed. if the fuse dosent pop then the relay could be internaly shorted, or fuel pump could be shorted, injectors, computer. pretty much anything that relay supplies power to. the only way to really find out is unplug each thing one at a time and while it is unpluged turn key hot and see if it blows. take in mind if it is a short in the wiring then even if it is unplugged then it still can blow the fuse which at that point then i would remove one power wire at a time at the relay untill I could get it down to one circut. this can get expensive with fuses so before you go out and buy a butt load of fuses I would reconmend that you get whats called a fuse buddy whichs is basicly like a trip breaker that can be reset when it is popped but this will still run like 50-80 bucks depending on where you get it from. let me know
Great advice! I didn't read your post in time, but that's what I did. It turned out that #3 injector was being pinched by the fuel rail
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