PB on Bronze Mugen/Volk Finish?
Heard peanut butter is good method to clean up bronze wheels and bring the finish back to life? Even saw a pic of one lathered/covered in it once? True?
If not, whats the best method for cleaning my Bronze MF8s? Not horribly faded or anything that need extensive care and work, but just want to know what to do with them when I detail the whole car to get them looking as good as they can?
Also just want to know how to take care of them now that I have them to make they last and stay in good condition as long as possible
So far just cleaned them with wipes when I first got them cause they were filthy, and so far have just waxed them with paste and microfiber clothes and look good so far...just looking for something better and what a "pro" would do
Reason why I asked specific tips for the mugen/volk bronze finish is that I figured the method would be different from white wheels and also they have the two different bronze finishes/textures: dull/rough on the faces/spokes/body but have a different shiny/smooth finish on the lip...not sure if I'd should do something different for each?
Thanks in advance...
pics of the wheels in case not everyone knows what I'm talking about or my description is unclear...
again not bad, but just want to them looking the full potential out of them...



you can see the difference in the lip here:
If not, whats the best method for cleaning my Bronze MF8s? Not horribly faded or anything that need extensive care and work, but just want to know what to do with them when I detail the whole car to get them looking as good as they can?
Also just want to know how to take care of them now that I have them to make they last and stay in good condition as long as possible
So far just cleaned them with wipes when I first got them cause they were filthy, and so far have just waxed them with paste and microfiber clothes and look good so far...just looking for something better and what a "pro" would do
Reason why I asked specific tips for the mugen/volk bronze finish is that I figured the method would be different from white wheels and also they have the two different bronze finishes/textures: dull/rough on the faces/spokes/body but have a different shiny/smooth finish on the lip...not sure if I'd should do something different for each?
Thanks in advance...
pics of the wheels in case not everyone knows what I'm talking about or my description is unclear...
again not bad, but just want to them looking the full potential out of them...



you can see the difference in the lip here:
ya thats what I've been trying to figure out lol
Guess there is some truth in it seems as people have heard of it at least and not just imagining or making it up...
But is it just that its an archaic method and much better products/compounds out there to do the job better?
Guess there is some truth in it seems as people have heard of it at least and not just imagining or making it up...
But is it just that its an archaic method and much better products/compounds out there to do the job better?
hmm...
painted rough texture...
personally, i'd spray the wheel with a powerful non-caustic cleaner. i use optimum powerclean full strength 1:1 through a foaming sprayer. i'd let that sit for a while, then take warm water and my mitt with dawn and wash the entire wheel. i'd double check all crevices and assure they were clean. i'd then spray it with a solvent rich quick detailer, clay the dang thing, wash it with my car wash and i'd apply 2-3 applications of opti-seal. if the lips are indeed cleared smooth texture, before the sealant application i'd gauge the quality of the clear and hit it with with my machine using a small foam orange pad and some polish or poli-seal...or compound- depends on how shitty of a condition the clear is in.
a machine obviously would not be able to hit the inner part of the outer lip so i'd to the best i could by hand using the poliseal and orange pad by hand. buff, then his with opti-seal.
painted rough texture...
personally, i'd spray the wheel with a powerful non-caustic cleaner. i use optimum powerclean full strength 1:1 through a foaming sprayer. i'd let that sit for a while, then take warm water and my mitt with dawn and wash the entire wheel. i'd double check all crevices and assure they were clean. i'd then spray it with a solvent rich quick detailer, clay the dang thing, wash it with my car wash and i'd apply 2-3 applications of opti-seal. if the lips are indeed cleared smooth texture, before the sealant application i'd gauge the quality of the clear and hit it with with my machine using a small foam orange pad and some polish or poli-seal...or compound- depends on how shitty of a condition the clear is in.
a machine obviously would not be able to hit the inner part of the outer lip so i'd to the best i could by hand using the poliseal and orange pad by hand. buff, then his with opti-seal.
hmm...
painted rough texture...
personally, i'd spray the wheel with a powerful non-caustic cleaner. i use optimum powerclean full strength 1:1 through a foaming sprayer. i'd let that sit for a while, then take warm water and my mitt with dawn and wash the entire wheel. i'd double check all crevices and assure they were clean. i'd then spray it with a solvent rich quick detailer, clay the dang thing, wash it with my car wash and i'd apply 2-3 applications of opti-seal. if the lips are indeed cleared smooth texture, before the sealant application i'd gauge the quality of the clear and hit it with with my machine using a small foam orange pad and some polish or poli-seal...or compound- depends on how shitty of a condition the clear is in.
a machine obviously would not be able to hit the inner part of the outer lip so i'd to the best i could by hand using the poliseal and orange pad by hand. buff, then his with opti-seal.
painted rough texture...
personally, i'd spray the wheel with a powerful non-caustic cleaner. i use optimum powerclean full strength 1:1 through a foaming sprayer. i'd let that sit for a while, then take warm water and my mitt with dawn and wash the entire wheel. i'd double check all crevices and assure they were clean. i'd then spray it with a solvent rich quick detailer, clay the dang thing, wash it with my car wash and i'd apply 2-3 applications of opti-seal. if the lips are indeed cleared smooth texture, before the sealant application i'd gauge the quality of the clear and hit it with with my machine using a small foam orange pad and some polish or poli-seal...or compound- depends on how shitty of a condition the clear is in.
a machine obviously would not be able to hit the inner part of the outer lip so i'd to the best i could by hand using the poliseal and orange pad by hand. buff, then his with opti-seal.
i'm going to have to look into a few of those products I don't have and then tackle the process asap
put it high on my detailing priority list along with refinishing my headlights and another claybar

the clear on the lip isn't peeling or anything so wouldn't say its bad at all, but might use the polish or compound anyways to see if I can get it to look any better than it does now...really would like to see it shine and set it apart from the rest of the wheel...
thanks again man...really appreciate it
I might pm you when i actually go through with it if thats alright, but your description was pretty concise,clear, and logical so i don't see how i could go wrong...

p.s. i tried a little spot inside the wheel with PB just because I had it and I was bored, didn't impress me so figured I'd wait to use a "real" method...
I agree with what BuiltHatch said, I would also advise you to check out a product from Poorboys called simply wheel sealant, it is specifically made to be used on wheels only and in my experience works very well.
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atomicarmy
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