ok so i'm trying to replace my d series with another d series engine. my axle nut is rusted on the rotor or axle and i tried everything to take that off but it didn't work so f that.

so i was wondering if i can just take out the engine block and leave the transmission in their, is their anything i need to watch out for ...

car is a 2000 civic dx

 

Bad idea man- are you sure you unstaked the nut?
Worst case scenario, if it still runs take it to a shop, have them blast it off, and then put it back on, drive home and then do the swap-

but again, unstake it,
spray penetrating oil on it, hammer it for 2 minutes, spray again and repeat that about 10 times, then get a torch heat it up, and it should pop right off- there is no reason it wont pop off with a decent breaker bar, or a impact

GL!

 

I did it once without removing the transmission. It was the worst idea ever. I had a problem with a badly damaged axle nut that would not come off. I removed the caliper and rotor and just unbolted the upper and lower control arms and took it all off as an assembly. it was MUCH MUCH easier then leaving the transmission in.

 

just leave the axle in the hub and pull it out of the tranny then pull everything out

 

THNX GUYS I'M GONNa take the axles off as an assembly and pull eveything out

 

i dont even think there is enough room for the clutch/flywheel to clear with the tranny in the car is it? just spray the hell out of the nut with pb blaster get a good breaker bar and go at it.

 

Try to put some heat to the nut with a torch and use a large breaker bar, extend it if you have to.

 

Worst case, just remove the entire spindle assembly with the full axle still attached to it.

 

just get a 10ft breaker bar and three guys..ahahaha

 

x2 Ive had to do this before, its easier than leaving the trans in.

 

Just get a real impact gun and air compressor... and blast the sucker off.

I have NEVER had an axle nut ro crank pulley bolt that would not come off with a 1/2 impact gun.

 

I had a case where I COULD NOT get the crank pulley off. (motor was on a stand, it would just spin the crank) It simply would not go- my dad was a tech for years, so we were using all quality tools, a IR 1/2" and it would not go- tried heat, PB spray, that stuff that you spray and it is super cold, and quite a few other things-

Ended up pulling the head, fabbing up a piston stopper that utilized the head bolts, and with a huge breaker bar, finally came-

Point is, no matter what you can ALWAYS get a bolt out-

OP use heat its your friend

 

sometimes you dont have access to heat or air tools....which he probaly doesn't....it only takes 5 minutes to pull the spindle/hub off

 

I say if you're stuck at the axle nut, then you prolly shouldn't be pulling the motor anyways. Got any mechanically inclined friends?

 

cut the axle tie strap, remove lower and upper ball joints, and tie rod, and pull the axle bearings out.

 

WHAT! ....why would you do that? It just pops out of the trans with a prybar. there is no need to tear apart axles

 

wow..what you could of done was put on two flywheel bolts across from each other and stick a breaker bar between them to hold the crank from moving..then blast the crank pulley bolt....sometimes the simplist things are never thought of...but at least you go it off

 

Why do people remove the axle from the hub when they are not changing to a different style axle or to replace the axle is beyond me!

Do this:

Break lower ball joint free from LCA.
Keep BJ off LCA and pry axle from diff.
Once axle isn't locked into the diff anymore, you can remove the lower fork bolt.
Swing the hub assembly, with axle attached, out of the lower fork and let it hang to the ground. It is clear of the transmission and the axle nut never needs to be removed.

 

SNAP-ON MG725. enough said.

 

What a terrible idea