while im driving during highway speed my engine would shut off by itself and turn back on instantly....very scary. i went to the dealer today to see if it was the recall on the electrical switch but their computer already shows it's already been replaced. could it be the main efi relay? any help is appreciated thanks!

is this the part?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.....html

 

Quick rule of thumb:
If you loose everything (Lights, Instruments etc) it could be (once again) the electrical portion of the switch.
If it just quits but everything else works, then we have to start looking elsewhere.
Does this car restart without problems, or do you have to futz with it?

Oh, by the way... Model and year please.

P

 

The warranty/recall replacement of the original switch doesn't have to mean that Honda installed a BETTER part.

The replacements were the exact same unit that was going bad in the first place.

Good Move Honda !!

 

its a 1998 accord 4dr dx
i didnt have to touch anything when the engine started again. i was driving highway speed and then all of a sudden the engine went out, rpm and temp gauge went to zero , but headlights and radio were still working. the key indicator started blinking but the car suddenly started again.

also a few months ago i had trouble starting the car in the mornings...it would just crank forever...so i just waited a few minutes and then the car would start

 

Was this issue resolved?

My 94 accord ex m/t has started doing this. While driving, it would just cut off. Once, it restarted itself. The other 3 times, I had to put in the clutch and crank. It started back w/o issue.

This morning after sitting all night, it had trouble cranking. Battery and alternator are new, no loose wires. I am wondering if it's the EFI relay.

Main relay issues seems to be hot start related. I have not had that issue.

Thank you in advance.

Chris

Hmm dumb question alert! Are the "main relay" and "EFI main relay" the same thing?

 

further searching suggested it could be the ignition switch.

I found this page http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignit...ch.html#Repair

Once I can check into this further, I will report back my findings.

If any of you have any other suggestions, I'm listening (In my best Frasier voice)

 

Chris:

... well, at least we have evidence that the search function works. You did find this thread from last year

Anyway, what do you mean by "trouble cranking"?
Slow cranking?
Extended cranking?
Crank / no start?

P

 

Hey,

it will begin the crank cycle and then it's dead; kind of like what happended while I was driving - suddenly nothing (like something was unplugged).

 

I would definitely suspect the ignition switch.
It is serviced separately. It is not required that you replace the steering lock that it's mounted to. It is (however) retained by two (2) specialty screws (retainers) which are required to remount the new switch. (you have to drill out the old screws to remove the crapped out old switch)

P

 

Two separate problems.

That's caused by a bad ignition switch contact assembly.

Even if it was already replaced once by Honda under the recall, it can fail again. The only difference is that Honda doesn't cover it the second time, so you'll be paying.

That's caused by a bad main fuel injection relay.

Common problem on all fuel injected Hondas, and a very easy fix for '98-02 Accords.

 

I've replaced Main relays to fix stalling issues. I've also replaced ignition switches as well. Both are common on your car. Also, my dealer is replacing recalled switches that have already been done at no charge. Yours might too...

 

I removed the ignition switch. I'm not sure if this is the cause but there are several spots on the contact area that's worn through the silver into the copper. I snapped a photo. You can see the copper areas on the larger silver things.

Does this look to be the cause of my intermitent stalls/no start conditions? I am replacing the switch anyway, just want to confirm the issue is fixed before I stall on a train track or something.

TIA

 

it all sounds exactly like what happened to my 99 with its ignition switch. it was also done before and i ended up doing it again. the corrosion on the prongs is what causes it, so yea, that was most likely your problem.

 

Well, I bought a replacement switch from Autozone for $55. Getting to the switch just involved taking off a couple of covers. I tried to change the switch without taking the ignition assy off, but that was not going to happen.

I was able to remove the bracket bolts without drilling them. With a punch and hammer, I tapped them CC until they came out. The assy dropped off into my hand and I was back in business.

It's been two days and no more cut-outs. Thanks for all the advice and hope this info is useful to others.