Okay I have asked a few questions about this. Here are some pics. The pieces are for a 93 VX Hatch.





As you can see I have a new down pipe but I am just trying to wait a little while longer on my cat. I got the manifold off, it was tough, but I got lucky. Now the the 3 nuts that held my cat and the pipe together were shot so I had to grind them off. Ive tried everything to get these studs out.

But the pipe that connect to it bolts to the body in two places, and the cat bolts to the manifold which bolts to the head.

So would Jb Weld be doable here? So I don't have to pay a machine shop to get them out on such an old part? The only question is will I be able to use the pipe I just bought again. I just want a temporary fix till I can get a new cat. I want to keep this all OEM for mileage sake.

The other options would be cut the flange off and weld a new one on or have a shop weld it together? It lines up perfect because the studs are still there just broken?

Is the weld easy to break on the JB? Since it isn't holding the weight of the exhaust I think it will be okay here. But I dont want the weld too strong because I want to reuse the pipe but not the cat.

Any advice on this would be great, I'm so sick of dealing with this, I just wish i wasn't broke, and this wasn't broken.

 

either drill the studs out, or cut the flange off and weld a new one to it.

you can just SMAW it for a quick and dirty weld, don't even have to clean it if you don't want.

6013 should do the trick.

 

have you looked into just getting a header?

 

It is going to mess up my o2 readings if i get a header from what I here.

How do you drill out the studs? What kind of bits do you use etc? Ive tried drilling them out before with massive failures. And eazy out no love either. Cut slices into them and tried a flathead with with my big impact, and it broke the bit. I didnt get to try my big punch because no grinder with me to make the slit bigger.

Last time I had the shop take them out it was like 60-80 bucks? How much would a new flang cost and what if they dont weld it right?

 

put the header and get this.
http://www.o2simulator.com

 

JB Weld doesn't work on exhausts and I can't believe there are people who are still running that cat on manifold setup.

 

Well what am I supposed to run instead of us and not throw codes and run like crap because i don't have an o2 sensor. What is the simulator? Does it work?

 

yes it works.. it moves the sensor up a lil bit so that it dose read fully persay.. so it catches only alil bit of the exhuast flow..

 

do a header and then an obx cat. that's what i have and its freaking amazing; it doesn't smell bad or run bad.

 

those studs are like wheel studs, just beat them out with a punch they will come out

 

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

wont hold on for a long time... honda motors have a lot of vibration.. and it will proob. break.. just weld it together or buy a new one.....

 

wtf

 

OH YEAH itll hold alright about till u turn ur car on haha 1.HEAT you know how it gets hot 2. Vibration and jb weld is more for like plastics

 

No they arent. They have threads. They aren't pressed so much information in this post. People giving me bad advice.

Oh really o2 simulator? well i searched and those are for AFTER the cat ONLY.

Ill just cut and weld a new flange no worries.

 

Man, that seems like it might be more trouble than just grining the studs flat and drilling them out. That's what I would do.

Got to watch out for that in this forum. A lot of people don't know WTF they're talking about.

 

Yea I've realized that. I'm not saying I know everything but I've seen some off the wall things said here.

Im gonna drill them out. Read a good article about, finally found one. I tried last time but without left hand cobalt bits.

Got any advice on drilling them out? Other than grind, left hand cobalt bits, reverse the drill?