id like to see what some people are running for this set up. I have 13inch rotors with 4 piston KVR's up front. My 16's just clear as it is. I'd like to see anyone running a 24 inch slick on 15's or 16's with a similar setup.

Im aware you reduce your options when you have a big brake upgrade.. so show me whatcha got.


TIA

 

I got the same issue with my wilwood brakes 16's barely clear, I'll probably just switch to stock for track days. Or you can try running big spacers

 

I think this thread will have no pictures at all to be honest.

A lot of us stop at a GSR caliper on a properly spaced wheel.

I know run a big CNC 4 piston caliper on a good sized rotor but it's still not huge but it fits unter a 15" wheel.

Sadly, it's something you'll have to try by borrowing some wheels and seeing what you can get to work.

 

Ya i knew it would be a shot in the dark. I had a gsr setup before this with a 14inch rim and 22 inch slick. But when I upgraded the internals, the brakes wouldn't hold up to the power. thanks for your input.

 

No problem! What chassis are you running?

I know my stock EG sized si stuff was awesome with a brembo rotor and Axxis ultimate pads, but it was also a light car and I didn't mind locking up a little trying to stop for the next light

 

lots of 800hp+ cars stop on GSR brakes. I dont really feel theres a need for big brake upgrades. It wouldnt hurt, but your going to have to deal with a bigger rim size.

Keep in mind that most slicks are in a 13 and 15" wheel.

 

Eh chassis, stripped..

I dunno man, having the feeling of not being able to stop in time, or your brakes over heating and failing scares me to no end. Like I said, I had a gsr setup with drilled and slotted rotors and it was great before the turbo, but not so great afterwords. keep in mind this is a dual purpose track/street car.

 

at 400hp with stock brakes, there shouldn't be any issues stopping

 

if that was the case i wouldnt of made this thread, or upgraded in the first place.

 

i think i seen a few 5 lug hatches this weekend at mir that had itr swaps and the stock rotor is 11.10 on them one of them was white and very clean sombody should have pics

 

i have a set of wilwoods on my car with a 12.1 rotor, and only 15 i can run is a bogart wheel, and if its still a tight fit im going to downgrade to a 11.75 rotor and make a new bracket

 

interesting. Im willing to make a new bracket and turn down the rotor even more then I already have. but what a PITA..

 

look, listen to what the racers in this thread have said. you dont NEED huge brakes to stop. whether its a track car, street car, or both, just make sure your brake components arent cheap and are maintained and you should have no problems stopping.

You're making this much more difficult than it has to be.

 

dood read my thread again. The deed is done. I have the brake upgrade on the car. So going back to stock brakes is

A) not going to happen

&

B) not going to happen.

Hence why im asking for alternatives..

but thanks for your input.

 

Unfortunately, you won't be able to put slicks on your car in an efficient fashion then. But you'll def have to just start trying things out with borrowed wheels.

 

yeah i hear ya.. DAMNIT!!!!!!!!!

 

do you still have the stock r brakes on your car ? jw

 

i think your going to have to just figure out what your maximum diameter of your caliper is along with your caliper offset and start calling wheel manufactures, i know if your caliper offset is positive off your brake rotor you cant run welds, ive been threw all this crap with my car and its a pain in the ***, almost not worth the big brakes imo, but my stockers are 10" and brake fadded like crazy. gl

 

this was my exact issue.. thanks for the info!!

 

nope. I actually downgraded to civic DX brakes in the front and rear. Yes, i have drums on the rear of my car. lighter than discs and STILL PROVIDE AMPLE STOPPING POWER from 120MPH.

Must be the only set of drums out there to be able to stop a racecar. or....they could just be installed, adjusted, and maintained correctly with decent parts...

 

if that was a dig towards me, im sorry but you fail. This is not a dedicated race car. It's dual purpose. And trust me bro, all my **** is installed correctly, adjusted correctly and of quality parts..

If you have no real suggestions to the reality of MY ACTUAL situation then please move on.

 

I was thinking, you may be able to ask the Road Race guys what they are running for a wheel. Then convert their offset into the drag wheel offset in order to see what they find works.

From there you can see what slicks will work on that wheel, if any.

 

already on it. LOL I sent a message to a friend who's been road racing hondas since the 70's.. Im sure we'll come up with something.

thanks again bro

 

damn not what i wanted to hear lol thanks for the info tho

 

good advice!

but on the subject of fading
on my budget trackday e30 316i i ran thin stock small non ventilated front discs and factory small non ventilated rear discs from a 318is.

a perfect recepy for fading isn't?

just a set of front ferodo 3000's and stock rear pads, good dot 5.1 fluid netted me hours and hours of racing without a hint of fading in anyway. i'm talking of 2hours+ racing on the edge and braking like a crazy **** because i did not have the power to keep up with the rest of the 325i's and had to make up with late *** braking

good pads and fluid > big brakes with "oke" pads and dot4 fluid

just my 02 cts, good luck finding rims that fit your setup