does rubbing compound destroy clear coat?
im in the process of painting my itr lip and I was following a diy on here on how to paint the lip. I finished painting and clear coating, but i am stuck at the compound part. When i starting rubbing the compund on the lip, the paint starts coming off very slowly. Im not pressing down hard on it and i let it dry a whole day before i even started with the compund. please, someone help
if used correctly no.
It will simply do a light sanding effect like 1000 grit wet paper would do. But it is very easy to get aggressive with a machine applying the compound and end up burning through it.
It will simply do a light sanding effect like 1000 grit wet paper would do. But it is very easy to get aggressive with a machine applying the compound and end up burning through it.
1. What kind of plastic primer did you use?
2. The stuff from a spray can is not clear coat.
A real plastic primer or 'adhesion promoter' is like a liquid that etches the surface of the plastic so the paint will stick. It has to be top coated soon (15-30 minutes usually) before the stuff dries and the plastic goes back to normal. I am just assuming that by 2 coats of plastic primer you used something from the auto parts store that you sprayed on a couple coats and let dry like a normal metal or wood primer?
I have used SEM 39863 PLASTIC ADHESION PROMOTER with great success.
Spray can clear coat is incredibly soft and weak compared to real car paint, especially only after one day.
2. The stuff from a spray can is not clear coat.
A real plastic primer or 'adhesion promoter' is like a liquid that etches the surface of the plastic so the paint will stick. It has to be top coated soon (15-30 minutes usually) before the stuff dries and the plastic goes back to normal. I am just assuming that by 2 coats of plastic primer you used something from the auto parts store that you sprayed on a couple coats and let dry like a normal metal or wood primer?
I have used SEM 39863 PLASTIC ADHESION PROMOTER with great success.
Spray can clear coat is incredibly soft and weak compared to real car paint, especially only after one day.
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1) spray can painting comes out very thin, you pretty much need to use as much paint as you can (I'm guessing you didn't use enough, since 2 coats is NOTHING)
2) why would you use something as abrasive as rubbing compound? you should be using like a fine polish, and use a lot finer sandpaper
3) you need more than 1 day drying time. try to let it dry in dry-warm locations
2) why would you use something as abrasive as rubbing compound? you should be using like a fine polish, and use a lot finer sandpaper
3) you need more than 1 day drying time. try to let it dry in dry-warm locations
Rubbing compound is made for hi-solid clears. you shouldnt be using it on a spray can clear, like others have mentioned its way too soft, way too thin and will not tolerate any type of torque put on it without damaging the topcoat.
Also,just checking, when you sprayed your primer, did you happen to sand it after it dried ? once primer is dried it needs to be sanded with a finer grit paper before applying color and clearcoat. A sealer should be used if you prime stuff, but seeing as your using spray can stuff , nevermind.
Also,just checking, when you sprayed your primer, did you happen to sand it after it dried ? once primer is dried it needs to be sanded with a finer grit paper before applying color and clearcoat. A sealer should be used if you prime stuff, but seeing as your using spray can stuff , nevermind.
Thanks for the tips u had given..... going to paint myself....
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