Clutch and Flywheel Question!!! (RSX TYPE-S INSIDE!)
Alright im in the process of changing out my clutch and while im at it, im changing out to a lightweight flywheel. Should i go ahead and get a stage 1 or 2 clutch or will a OEM clutch(exedy brand) hold? anybody run with an oem clutch with a lightened flywheel? THANKS AGAIN!
well I guess all of this depends on your power goals. Stock clutch's will hold up to stock power. I just swapped my stock clutch out for the Competition Stage 4 puck clutch. But it feels like a stage 2 in drivability with the 10lbs flywheel.
If anything, I would go with at least a stage2 even if you aren't going for high horespower numbers just to have a stronger clutch since it's out.
If anything, I would go with at least a stage2 even if you aren't going for high horespower numbers just to have a stronger clutch since it's out.
Originally Posted by Type-’S’paz
I just swapped my stock clutch out for the Competition Stage 4 puck clutch. But it feels like a stage 2 in drivability with the 10lbs flywheel.
Just go with an OEM clutch with the OEM flywheel for the easiest driving.
I would go with a lightweight flywheel and a name brand moderate stage two clutch. If lucky you might even just get more life out of it compared to the Honda one? That would make it worth the extra right there. And even if you don't have high horsepower expectations it will take the abuse of driving hard better. I am looking at getting the Type R flywheel whenever I have to change my clutch. Hopefully with 64000 miles that won't be soon!
Keep in mind that any light weight flywheel is going to decrease drivability, Dont know if you know how a lightweight flywheel will change your motor, but it will not hold rpms like a stock flywheel. So when you shift, the rpms are going to drop a lot faster. Also getting going is going to be a little harder as well with a low torque honda. Just letting you know. I would stick to stock flywheel with a DD. And keep in mind if you are going forced induction it is not good to have a lightweight flywheel with a high torque setup.
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Originally Posted by aemciv
Keep in mind that any light weight flywheel is going to decrease drivability, Dont know if you know how a lightweight flywheel will change your motor, but it will not hold rpms like a stock flywheel. So when you shift, the rpms are going to drop a lot faster. Also getting going is going to be a little harder as well with a low torque honda. Just letting you know. I would stick to stock flywheel with a DD. And keep in mind if you are going forced induction it is not good to have a lightweight flywheel with a high torque setup.
i use a custom 9# and a action 6 puck, its easy to drive and reliable from anything bolt on to supercharged at 11#. i was just thru the break in period when my motor popped and light easy driving in downtown was cake..
in fact i have my set up for sale if your interested.
in fact i have my set up for sale if your interested.
Originally Posted by hawaiiancb74
i use a custom 9# and a action 6 puck, its easy to drive and reliable from anything bolt on to supercharged at 11#. i was just thru the break in period when my motor popped and light easy driving in downtown was cake..
in fact i have my set up for sale if your interested.
in fact i have my set up for sale if your interested.
Hahaha Im using the search function. Just thought I would add my .2 just to clear things up. There isn't much difference between a stage 2 pucked or solid disc. The difference would be in wether or not the disc is sprung or un-sprung. A un-sprung clutch is a pita. The spring in the disc are what make a clutch streetable or not. I wouldn't ever street a unsprung clutch Honda with over 200hp. Your would be screeching almost everytime you left a Stop.
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