I was removing my passenger axles (for a clutch job) when I saw quite a bit of grease around a leaking and torn boot. I believe it's called the outboard boot.

Do I just need to replace the rubber boot? Easy as that?

Here are some pics since I don't know what the hell I'm doing. I'm pretty sure it's #26 where the boot is torn.

 

Buy a new axle !

 

buying a new boot and replacing it is an option but it would be better for you to just replace the axle. the question is....why did your boot bust?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Girlzcn2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buying a new boot and replacing it is an option but it would be better for you to just replace the axle. the question is....why did your boot bust? </TD></TR></TABLE>\
And are the rest about done?

 

I've replaced a boot before. I believe you can get a boot replacement kit from Acura for 30-40 bucks. You do need a special banding tool to reinstall the metal band though. I didn't have this and settled with holding the band in place with zip-ties...a bit ghetto I know but it's held up for over 5 years now.

 

i gotta reband my inner, spittin grease out the side

 

This happened to me not too long ago, you can get an axle from autozone for $70-80 I believe, replacing the boot can get pretty messy, I went with replacing the axle. Plus if you do just replace the boot, there could already be damage to the cv joint and you just don't know it yet so you might be replacing the axle down the road anyway.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eva01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've replaced a boot before. I believe you can get a boot replacement kit from Acura for 30-40 bucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i did this too about a year and a half ago. funny thing was that the acura parts guy gave me the wrong side. apparently the boots are unique. it's been holding up so far though so i can't complain. ...yeah, if i recall, it was about $30-$40...

kepani

 

Replacing the boot is an option, but some have had mixed results. A brand new axle(not reman'd) from Autozone is $59.99 with a two year warranty. I feel this is a better investment.

 

If i just noticed the tear and the cv joint feels good i usually replace the boot, but if its been awhile and it feels loose i replace the whole axle, but as stated above 59.00 for an axle is the best route to go saves you the hassle.

 

get a boot replacement kit + hose clamp or ziptie or buy a reman'd axle.

You are prolly better off just replacing the boot and keeping your OEM axle unless you hear clicking when you are making a sharp u-turn (left or right, try both ways)

 

i'd vote for a new axle. then you don't have to clean the old one off in case any rocks or **** got in there, or regrease it, plus its not that much more than a new boot replacement kit.

 

Think I'll get this:

 

I just replace them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dk127 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd vote for a new axle. then you don't have to clean the old one off in case any rocks or **** got in there, or regrease it, plus its not that much more than a new boot replacement kit. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I'd rather keep the OEM made in japan bearings vs whatever chinese bearings are used in the reman'd units if possible.

If the bearings are fine, why replace them?

I would also use an OEM boot kit, they will last much longer vs aftermarket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I'd rather keep the OEM made in japan bearings vs whatever chinese bearings are used in the reman'd units if possible.

If the bearings are fine, why replace them?

I would also use an OEM boot kit, they will last much longer vs aftermarket.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know some people differ, but my reman axles from auto zone have been going strong for about 10k. And in my old car with a clutch type diff, over 40k.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I know some people differ, but my reman axles from auto zone have been going strong for about 10k. And in my old car with a clutch type diff, over 40k.</TD></TR></TABLE>


no doubt... but how many miles before honda bearings wear out on axles?

if he only needs to spend 10-40 bucks on a new boot, why should he spend 60+ bucks on a reman'd axle?

Makes no sense to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by irev210 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


no doubt... but how many miles before honda bearings wear out on axles?

if he only needs to spend 10-40 bucks on a new boot, why should he spend 60+ bucks on a reman'd axle?

Makes no sense to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Who knows, but if they are factory axles then they have a decent amount of miles and years. And if the boot has been open then you could possibly have sand/dirt/grit in there which will make it go eventually anyways.

Replacing is just my opinion.

 

What exactly goes bad in axles anyways?

Does dirt end up grinding the rollers and the spider until they're no longer smooth? I've just never had a grip on what it means for bearings to go bad (hell aren't they just steel *****?)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by erikiksaz1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What exactly goes bad in axles anyways?

Does dirt end up grinding the rollers and the spider until they're no longer smooth? I've just never had a grip on what it means for bearings to go bad (hell aren't they just steel *****?)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, depending on the bearing type... a lot can go wrong.

Poor quality steel, poor quality manufacturing, poor quality design, etc.

1) Poor quality steel
- inconsistent, pitting, poorly manufactured raw material

2) poor quality manufacturing
- bearings are out of spec

3) poor quality design
- incorrect bearing for application, not strong enough, too small, cant take the force, etc
- Not properly lubricated, bearings heat up, expand, freeze up and destroy themselves
- Dirt can scratch the bearing surface, making imperfections, causing heat, expanding and freezing up

It is EXTREMELY difficult to make "just steel *****" (or whatever that particular bearing is made of)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Girlzcn2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buying a new boot and replacing it is an option but it would be better for you to just replace the axle. the question is....why did your boot bust? </TD></TR></TABLE> Looks like it was leaking for awhile, get a new axle. if there was not that much build up, i'd say replace just the boot.

 

replace the axle...

 

replace the axle...

 

I'd just remove the axle, clean it off and inspect it for any damage or heavy internal pitting. If it's bad, then get the autozone axles (which seem to be a hit or miss depending on your luck). And btw, you can borrow the band tightening tool at Autozone.

One of my boots tore and after inspection everything looked and spun freely, so I just reused the OEM axles. Problem is that I didn't tighten one of the boots enough so the grease started to leak.

 

What a coincidence, my inner boot is busted and spew grease everywhere.

You guys have a part number for the OEM kit?

I have the JDM 36mm axles.