could a coolent temp sensor cel = vtec not working?
ok Ive been looking around and seen a few post about oil and engine temp messin with the vtec but nothing on the coolent temp sens. here what I got
97 prelude base. it keeps throwing a cel for the coolent temp sens, I have replaced it and reset it and it still does it . So my next step it to take it to my mech. and have him flush is out really really good. But my question is could this mess with the vtech if there is something worng with the coolent temp sens.?
97 prelude base. it keeps throwing a cel for the coolent temp sens, I have replaced it and reset it and it still does it . So my next step it to take it to my mech. and have him flush is out really really good. But my question is could this mess with the vtech if there is something worng with the coolent temp sens.?
I checked the ect connection and I dont think it was the sensor now I changed it and and tried to erase it with a obd2 scaner. stuck a paper clip in the connections and it didnt do anything at all!
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ok sorry I should have been more clear. ok here it is, I changed the ect sensor and the cel still keeped coming back up. So I bought a OBD2 scaner and tried to erase the cel with that it still didnt work. So I took a electric meter and tested the conections and got over 13 volts to it, But no Ohms. Not sure if there is suppose to be ohms but thats what I checked. I think that I have a bad conection somewhere between the ecu and the ect sensor but I am not sure were to begin to look for that. I have almost an all stock engine. No upgrade ecu or any electrical upgrades plz help me I am so lost. All I want is the stock vtech power I am losing because of this.
Turn your ignition off.
Disconnect the 16pin PCM connector, Check for continuity between the ECT pin,
red and white wire and a ground. If contunuity exists, you have a short between the ECT
connector and the wire going into the PCM (d2)
If you don't have continuity, substitue a known good pcm and test it again.
Disconnect the 16pin PCM connector, Check for continuity between the ECT pin,
red and white wire and a ground. If contunuity exists, you have a short between the ECT
connector and the wire going into the PCM (d2)
If you don't have continuity, substitue a known good pcm and test it again.
i hope u didn't blow a fuse in ur meter measure Ohms with the circuit not isolated from power.
If u ever measure the resistance of anything, unplug it and isolate it from the electrical circuit. U'll never get the reading ur looking for if ur measuring the whole circuit, especially if it has power.
The PCM(powertrain control module) is also called the ECU (engine control unit)
I'm not too familiar with 5th gen locations...but on the 4th gen (92-96) its down on floor, under the dash, on the passenger side.
If u ever measure the resistance of anything, unplug it and isolate it from the electrical circuit. U'll never get the reading ur looking for if ur measuring the whole circuit, especially if it has power.
The PCM(powertrain control module) is also called the ECU (engine control unit)
I'm not too familiar with 5th gen locations...but on the 4th gen (92-96) its down on floor, under the dash, on the passenger side.
I didnt blow a fure I have a nice meter for work(cable guy) CAn I get a little more info as how to check the connector from the pcm and which one I need to test and how if possible?also I will try and post a pic of my engine I found on the dizzy side of the cams the back came has some grey gasket filler on it but I dont know if it is because Of a leak or what?
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