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removing white haze???

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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 08:45 AM
  #1  
dj-t's Avatar
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From: middle cali, ca, ca
Default removing white haze???

I have a black civic that I did but know I have a white all over. This is the steps that I did.

1.Wash with meguiars Cali gold car wash with new terry cloth towel.
2.Clay it with the turtle wax ice liquid clay bar.
3.Washed it again with step one.
4.Dry it using new micro fiber cloths.

Using a Porter Cable 7424 with Lake country foam pads.

5.Used meguiars mirror glaze fine cut cleaner wipe clean with new micro cloth (used orange foam pad).
6.Used meguiars deep crystal polish wipe clean with new micro cloth (used white foam pad).
7.Used meguiars mirror glaze show car glaze wipe clean with new micro cloth (used white foam pad).
8.Used meguiars mirror glaze synthetic sealant 2.0 wipe clean with new micro cloth (used blue foam pad).
9.Used meguiars gold class wax wipe clean with new micro cloth (used grey foam pad).

I didn't realize the haze until a couple of days later. How would I go about removing this.
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 07:25 AM
  #2  
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Default Re: removing white haze??? (dj-t)

hmm....

any way to get a pic of it?
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 09:46 AM
  #3  
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Default Re: removing white haze??? (builthatch)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm....

any way to get a pic of it?</TD></TR></TABLE>



I havent noticed any haze from M21 but when I use NXT 2.0 sometimes It doesnt want to wipe down clean.
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 01:03 PM
  #4  
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Default

quite possible you burned the paint.
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 02:09 PM
  #5  
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Default Re: (SoCal EJ1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoCal EJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quite possible you burned the paint.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL with a PC?
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 02:17 PM
  #6  
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Default Re: (E-Rok)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LOL with a PC?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A high end shop managed to burn the clear over most of my friend's car that they just painted.
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 03:13 PM
  #7  
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Default Re: (SoCal EJ1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoCal EJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A high end shop managed to burn the clear over most of my friend's car that they just painted. </TD></TR></TABLE>

with a PC???!
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 03:22 PM
  #8  
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Default Re: (builthatch)

I doubt the paint is burned, but you could have worked the products in wrong?? I dont know what your experience is and I havent really used those exact meguairs products..can you give more details to your exact procedure with the PC?
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 05:14 AM
  #9  
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Default Re: (SoCal EJ1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoCal EJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A high end shop managed to burn the clear over most of my friend's car that they just painted. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont think I could burn paint with my PC if I tried
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 06:42 AM
  #10  
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From: middle cali, ca, ca
Default Re: (E-Rok)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Presidential_Detail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I doubt the paint is burned, but you could have worked the products in wrong?? I dont know what your experience is and I havent really used those exact meguairs products..can you give more details to your exact procedure with the PC?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I put some product on the pad about a spoon full give or take then smear it on the section that I going to work on. Set the speed at 3 spread the product on section and then set the speed to 5/5.5 and work it in until the product starts to disappear and then let it sit for a while or until it turns a little white and then wipe off with a micro cloth.

Also before applying the product to the pad since the pad is brand new I spray a little water on it to moisten it. The water I use is from a reverse osmosis filter that is use for drinking water I rinse the spray bottle pretty good to before using it.

My experience is pretty much just washing and waxing by hand before. This is the first time I have ever use a machine buffer/polisher on any car.
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 07:45 AM
  #11  
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Default Re: (dj-t)

well you dont need to let polish dry to a haze. only wax/sealant.
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 12:10 PM
  #12  
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Default Re: (dj-t)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dj-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well I put some product on the pad about a spoon full give or take then smear it on the section that I going to work on. Set the speed at 3 spread the product on section and then set the speed to 5/5.5 and work it in until the product starts to disappear and then let it sit for a while or until it turns a little white and then wipe off with a micro cloth.

Also before applying the product to the pad since the pad is brand new I spray a little water on it to moisten it. The water I use is from a reverse osmosis filter that is use for drinking water I rinse the spray bottle pretty good to before using it.

My experience is pretty much just washing and waxing by hand before. This is the first time I have ever use a machine buffer/polisher on any car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i don't see anything glaring here that would cause an issue. pics are necessary for this one i think.
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 12:22 PM
  #13  
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Default Re: (dj-t)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dj-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well I put some product on the pad about a spoon full give or take then smear it on the section that I going to work on. Set the speed at 3 spread the product on section and then set the speed to 5/5.5 and work it in until the product starts to disappear and then let it sit for a while or until it turns a little white and then wipe off with a micro cloth.

Also before applying the product to the pad since the pad is brand new I spray a little water on it to moisten it. The water I use is from a reverse osmosis filter that is use for drinking water I rinse the spray bottle pretty good to before using it.

My experience is pretty much just washing and waxing by hand before. This is the first time I have ever use a machine buffer/polisher on any car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

-Try putting 4 pea sized dots on the pad, no more than that. work only a small 18x18 section at a time(half fender-half door, etc)
-Do not mist the pad with any water, just take your pad with the 4 dots and smear it on the panel you intend to work, then turn the machine on speed one, spread the polish up once-down, left right once.
-Then turn the machine to your setting 5, work until the polish is broken down or nearly invisible(I would say about 6 or 7 passes both up-down and left-right)
-Now turn your machine down to low setting and do a couple more passes.
-The polish should be worked in enough by this point, no need to wait for a haze just wipe off.
-Continue the rest of the car.

Let me know if this helps, i dont think I left anything out..its going to take practice either way!
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 10:23 PM
  #14  
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From: middle cali, ca, ca
Default Re: (Presidential_Detail)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Presidential_Detail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

-Try putting 4 pea sized dots on the pad, no more than that. work only a small 18x18 section at a time(half fender-half door, etc)
-Do not mist the pad with any water, just take your pad with the 4 dots and smear it on the panel you intend to work, then turn the machine on speed one, spread the polish up once-down, left right once.
-Then turn the machine to your setting 5, work until the polish is broken down or nearly invisible(I would say about 6 or 7 passes both up-down and left-right)
-Now turn your machine down to low setting and do a couple more passes.
-The polish should be worked in enough by this point, no need to wait for a haze just wipe off.
-Continue the rest of the car.

Let me know if this helps, i dont think I left anything out..its going to take practice either way!</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I didn't mist the pad it seems like the product is not going onto the car and is just being absorb into the pad. I didn't let the polish dry I wiped it off right away cause that's what the instructions on the back of the bottle says. I read the instructions on each bottle so maybe I just need more experience.

You guys think it might be the compound that I used, think it might be too aggressive. Or did I just polished it incorrectly.

I worked the polished in for about 3-4 minutes and it seems like it broke down. Do I need some finishing polish or swirl remover to take away the haze? If you guys know any product out there that may take care of the haze in the paint I greatly appreciate it if you share what product it is.
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 03:36 AM
  #15  
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Default Re: (dj-t)

Hop onto Autopia.net and do look around there for a while, you will learn alot in a little bit of time just browsing through it.

If you put 4 dots of polish onto the pad, it will be plenty enough polish on the pad so you wont have to mist it. Also sometime the misting product can make your polish act funny. I know Menzerna does not like water or any other products mixed in with it. And once youve done a panel or two, you can actually bump down to two pea sized dots and it should still be plenty enough polish...

And if you are using a aggresive polish, you will need an intermediate step and sometime a finishing polish such as Menzerna 106ff(intermediate on white pad) and final finish(finishing step on black or blue pad). Hope this helps.
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