HELP!!! Accord Euro R swap in 4th gen Prelude
I have an accord euro r h22a motor sitting on a lift and i can not find a decent parts list for what needs to be done to switch it from and OBD2 to an OBD1 so that it will work with the ecu out of a 95 prelude vtec. Can any one help me with this list of parts???
Your 95 usdm won't operate the engine properly since the EuroR has 1pt higher compression, and different cam timing. Use the ecu that you get with the swap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your 95 usdm won't operate the engine properly since the EuroR has 1pt higher compression, and different cam timing. Use the ecu that you get with the swap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Euro-R ECU would be hard to make work.
Your main issue will be getting the IM stuff hooked up right: throttle cable, fuel rail, and IACV. Probably a good idea to keep your distributor and put it on the new engine.
The Euro-R ECU would be hard to make work.
Your main issue will be getting the IM stuff hooked up right: throttle cable, fuel rail, and IACV. Probably a good idea to keep your distributor and put it on the new engine.
It didnt come with the Euro R ecu.
A Blue Lude- are you saying that it would be easier to use my stock ecu which will have a hondata s300 on it?
A Blue Lude- are you saying that it would be easier to use my stock ecu which will have a hondata s300 on it?
since ur putting this motor into a 95, you'll probably have to change the distributor and oil pump, and ur ECU. There are lots of ppl on here that know exactly what's needed for the obd2-obd1 change over.
The best thing you can probably do is get a p28/p72 and get it socketed and tuned.
The best thing you can probably do is get a p28/p72 and get it socketed and tuned.
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thank you so much, yeah i figured id need those two but im worried about the fine detail stuff going from obd2 to obd1
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by no1knows908 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can't use any Prelude ECU with Hondata S300, must use a P28 or similar Civic/Integra VTEC ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Kind of a BROAD statement......You can use a USDM OBD2 ECU with it(needs at least a vafc to tune, to run right)......but that obviously isn't an option for his OBD1 setup.
Kind of a BROAD statement......You can use a USDM OBD2 ECU with it(needs at least a vafc to tune, to run right)......but that obviously isn't an option for his OBD1 setup.
Yeah it is about 2 and a half hours away from chicagoland. Would they be able to tune a p28 w/s300 ecu and tune the motor if i already had it installed?
Well the motor is finally in. All that is left is exhaust and tune. Most of the things hooked up very easily the only thing that really posed a problem was going from low Ohm injectors to high Ohm injectors on the new motor. Id like to thank you all for your input on all of this swap it really helped out a lot. I am so happy that I took my time, did a lot of research, and had helpful people to make this swap pretty straight forward.
There are a few subtle differences between the Euro-R and H22a1
You must use the Prelude harness because the Euro-R is void of the VTEC oil pressure switch, there is a plug where the oil pressure switch normally bolts up.
There is also NO front crankshaft speed sensor on the Euro-r, so go OBD1
The front motor mount bracket (by the timing cover) has a different bolt pattern, youll have to use the Prelude bracket.
The alternator connector is different than the Prelude connector, youll have to use the Prelude alternator.
The starter cable on the Euro-R is on the other side of the starter, youll either have to get a longer positive battery cable or use the Prelude cable.
If you use the Euro-R intake manifold and injectors, Youll have to by-pass the Prelude injector resistor. This is much easier than getting OBD1 injectors to fit on the Euro-R manifold.
Youll also need an IAC to EACV adapter plate. Blacktrax has them.
I ran a JDM P13 ECU for a few weeks, Ran great.
But now im running a Phearable ECU.
Other than that, the swap was straightforward.
You must use the Prelude harness because the Euro-R is void of the VTEC oil pressure switch, there is a plug where the oil pressure switch normally bolts up.
There is also NO front crankshaft speed sensor on the Euro-r, so go OBD1
The front motor mount bracket (by the timing cover) has a different bolt pattern, youll have to use the Prelude bracket.
The alternator connector is different than the Prelude connector, youll have to use the Prelude alternator.
The starter cable on the Euro-R is on the other side of the starter, youll either have to get a longer positive battery cable or use the Prelude cable.
If you use the Euro-R intake manifold and injectors, Youll have to by-pass the Prelude injector resistor. This is much easier than getting OBD1 injectors to fit on the Euro-R manifold.
Youll also need an IAC to EACV adapter plate. Blacktrax has them.
I ran a JDM P13 ECU for a few weeks, Ran great.
But now im running a Phearable ECU.
Other than that, the swap was straightforward.
I have this in my black prelude, seems to still be running a little crappy and im still trying to figure out some of the buggs
Thanks guys I am really happy with it.
Its a magnaflow universal muffler. I had a custom exhaust put on it. I think it sounds absolutely sick. People tell me it doesnt even sound like a honda, it has a great crawl to it now. If you want ill give you a link to it and how to get an even better price on it.
Its a magnaflow universal muffler. I had a custom exhaust put on it. I think it sounds absolutely sick. People tell me it doesnt even sound like a honda, it has a great crawl to it now. If you want ill give you a link to it and how to get an even better price on it.
Do you have the full motor and trans combo? What exactly do you mean by running crappy. Did you have it tuned? Where did you have it installed at?


























LOL jk