I got a suspension and i want to go lower but i dont want camber wear or anything
just an even wear .. go lower as in kinda slammed .
what exactly do i need to do? help. thanks!

 

Alignment
Front/rear camber kit

 

An extra front lip and bumper because you are gonna destroy the one have rolling around like that.

 

You are going to want to replace the Lower Baller joints too.

 

"go lower as in kinda slammed" = You are going to throw the whole suspendsion out of it's normal geometry. This means after a while, you have to replace some of the damage suspension components which result from this "go lower as in kinda slammed" abuse.

To answer your question, do what "walker111" already said.

 

Wait... define lower... how much lower?

What kind of suspension did you get?

Camber doesn't wear tires... toe does.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wait... define lower... how much lower?

What kind of suspension did you get?

Camber doesn't wear tires much... toe does.</TD></TR></TABLE>

These are the important questions/statements.

 

True... - 10 degree's will KILL tires...

But what most people don't realize when lowering the car, is not only is the camber changed (and mostly thought to destroy the tires) but the whole geometry is changed.

After lowering, always always ALWAYS get an alignment.

 

Thats what Roll Center Adjusters are for.

&lt;--- who already got his J's Racing RCA and is waiting for the mugen bushings


List of what you might want to look into

Skunk Pro Series Plus front camber kit
Skunk adjustable rear camber kit
Roll Center Adjusters, J's racing, MFactory, Hardrace

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wait... define lower... how much lower?

What kind of suspension did you get?

Camber doesn't wear tires... toe does.</TD></TR></TABLE>what, you dont know the definition of

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR0842 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
go lower as in kinda slammed .
</TD></TR></TABLE>

?

Where the hell is Neo when you need him....

 

Yeah know WTF you're doing before you do it.
Stock sussy on my Evo was so close to the edge, I had to put a roll center kit in just to drop it 0.9"... without the steering mods, it can get downright unstable during high speed manuvers. I also did some other mods, i.e. bump steer reduction that relocates a rear trailing arm about a centimeter and I'm still messing around with rear toe to find something I can live with. Of course your question kinda suggests you are a hard parker and only care about looks.

 

Lower the car and then have it aligned. Have it set to Max Toe In in the front and center in the rear

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soulpwr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lower the car and then have it aligned. Have it set to Max Toe In in the front and center in the rear</TD></TR></TABLE>

WAT?

 

Toe is the difference between the leading edge (or front) and trailing edge (or rear) of the tires. Toe-in is the measurement in fractions-of-an- inch, millimeters or decimal-of-degrees where the tires are closer together in the front than they are in the back. Toe-out is the same measurement, except the tires are further apart in the front than in the rear. An incorrect toe setting is one of the main factors that can cause excessive tire wear.


The camber angle will affect the wear on the inner or outer edge of a tire. Camber is the inclination of the centerline of the wheel from the vertical, as viewed from the front of the vehicle. Camber angle is measured in positive or negative degrees. Positive camber is the outward tilt of the top of the tire. Negative camber is the inward tilt of the tire at the top. If a tire is absolutely vertical, the degree of camber is zero.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR0842 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I got a suspension and i want to go lower but i don't want camber wear or anything
just an even wear .. go lower as in kinda slammed .
what exactly do i need to do? help. thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

So basically what you want to do is, get it to Stock alignment specs. When you have the car on the wheel alignment rack and the guy says (IF) what do you want. Say as close to stock specs as possible. Now if he is good, he will say it won't be close because you are too low. Then ask him what you need to correct it other then lifting it to a normal ride height.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soulpwr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have it set to Max Toe In in the front</TD></TR></TABLE>

LMAO!

 

the stock suspension is great for being stock.
if you can out drive the stock suspension then more power to you,
but slamming the car just for looks is pointless

 

if your planning on lowering the car just for looks. then you will need adjustable camber kits and a factory set alignment.

if your planning on tracking the car, or any type of racing involving turns and bends then your going to need camber kits and other mods (ie. bars, etc) but instead of getting a factory spec alignment which sets everything to zero you will need one where your camber and toe is set differently (negative or positve to a certain degree) depending on the type of racing your doing.

 

OP, do you want your car lower then this?

The reason I ask...
I did not need anything other then the PIC Suspension and a great person to set it up.
I could go lower, about an inch. But I occasionally bottom out on driveways, speed bumps and random other odd incline/declines.
I would love to be lower but replacing the header and other various parts are Not worth going lower.

Something to think about if going lower then where my car currently sits.


Modified by Bbasso at 3:42 AM 10/31/2008

 

For "slammed" look here... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2077238

 

Bbasso loves the slammed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen Mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

LMAO! </TD></TR></TABLE>
By setting it to max toe in it promotes tire wear toward the outside of the wheel. This combats inner tire wear from camber and toe. You obviously dont know about that though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soulpwr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
By setting it to max toe in it promotes tire wear toward the outside of the wheel. This combats inner tire wear from camber and toe. You obviously dont know about that though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So rather than have inner tire wear, you want to promote outer tire wear?

I'll bet turn-in would fantastic with the front tires set to max toe in, too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bbasso loves the slammed. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well...

Also... If you really want to get the car low, you will have to adress two more issuses.
1- In the front the wheel well has a seem that would have to be smashed smooth. My tires have hit them lighty already, no damage luckily but saved by stiff spring rates.
2- I have encountered this problem too... The Upper control arms will hit and cause damage. both to the UCA and the wheel well/engine bay.
If you want I could get pictures.
Like I said, going lower = PIA.

 

I've been driving around with no finger gap all around for quite a while now. Some things that I wish I would have done earlier:

1) Gone with higher spring rates than what GC offers OTS.
2) Completely bend the wheel well seam that Bbasso was talking about.
3) Flop my tires to the opposite side of the car every other oil change

I've been driving on Kumho SPT's for almost about 25k miles and I've been fighting off excessive wear by getting an alignment every year. It also helps to have one of the best aligning my car (Darrin from West End).

BUUUTTT, and this is a huge but, I delayed flopping my tires from left to right for the whole time that I've owned these tires. Because of this, I've had the two driver's side tires wear a little too much on the unsafe side of things to warrant replacing. If I would have flopped them 5k miles ago, I have no doubt I'd be sitting on the same tires for at least another 10k.

Your issues might not be as bad as mine though. I asked Darrin why I was getting more excessive camber wear on the driver's side and he found that the geometry of my car was not perfect, translating to a degree's worth more camber on the driver's side than the passenger side.