Best front brake pads and rear shoes for turbo civic ?
For reference, the car is a 93 Civic EG, Turbo H22A with about 300Whp right now and currently has Brembo drilled and slotted rotors with Tom's racing pads (straight from Japan - JDM!!) in the front and stock drums and brake shoes in the rear...
I am wondering if you guys can suggest which would be the BEST brake pads and shoes for my 93 Civic considering my modifications. Car is also aggressively driven on most days which means lots of hard stopping
...
I am wondering if you guys can suggest which would be the BEST brake pads and shoes for my 93 Civic considering my modifications. Car is also aggressively driven on most days which means lots of hard stopping
...
sigh, im not even gonna get into your title lol but,
dont waste ur money on dumb brake shoes, buy a disc swap if u want stopping power...and get a set of hawk pads for the front...its the best bang for the buck,
but since judging by your car so far your pockets dont look nervous.... maybe u should look into spoon calipers ;-) not very economical....but great stopping power
dont waste ur money on dumb brake shoes, buy a disc swap if u want stopping power...and get a set of hawk pads for the front...its the best bang for the buck,
but since judging by your car so far your pockets dont look nervous.... maybe u should look into spoon calipers ;-) not very economical....but great stopping power
as soon as i seen the title REAR SHOES... lol and then i read further... turbo h22 swap... and u still rocking rear drums homie. spend the 200 bux and convert to rear disks. then grab some lifetime autozone pads...
Man if your pulling 300whp then get a 00SI or GS-R rear disk brakes!
that mess will stop your ride in no time!
that mess will stop your ride in no time!
Just go to a junkyard, and get some DA, GSR, or Si rear calipers, new rotors, pads, and to do it right get the prop valve, bigger master cyc, and the brake booster as well to compliment the rear calipers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pcguy760 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For reference, the car is a 93 Civic EG, Turbo H22A with about 300Whp right now and currently has Brembo drilled and slotted rotors with Tom's racing pads (straight from Japan - JDM!!) in the front and stock drums and brake shoes in the rear...
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I hope you realize that you got fake Brembo rotors. Brembo only makes blank rotors, cross-drilled rotors, or slotted rotors. They do not make a cross-drilled and slotted rotor from the factory. So someone took a Brembo slotted rotor and cross-drilled it themselves, and sold it to you as such. If you don't believe me, go to Brembo's website itself, look in their applications catalog and find me the part number for your cross-drilled and slotted rotor. You can even call Brembo and they will tell you exactly what I told you.
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I hope you realize that you got fake Brembo rotors. Brembo only makes blank rotors, cross-drilled rotors, or slotted rotors. They do not make a cross-drilled and slotted rotor from the factory. So someone took a Brembo slotted rotor and cross-drilled it themselves, and sold it to you as such. If you don't believe me, go to Brembo's website itself, look in their applications catalog and find me the part number for your cross-drilled and slotted rotor. You can even call Brembo and they will tell you exactly what I told you.
I agree.
Keep your current pads and just swap out your drums for some rear discs. It will improve your stopping power.
I personnaly love the idea of NSX calipers in the front.
Search for it, someone did a build thread on how to do it...It's pretty straight foward...Then you'll be stopping on dimes.
Keep your current pads and just swap out your drums for some rear discs. It will improve your stopping power.
I personnaly love the idea of NSX calipers in the front.
Search for it, someone did a build thread on how to do it...It's pretty straight foward...Then you'll be stopping on dimes.
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your front brakes do 80% of your braking
save the money you would spend on rear disc conversion NONSENSE and buy some upgraded rotors and calipers for the front.
save the money you would spend on rear disc conversion NONSENSE and buy some upgraded rotors and calipers for the front.
Damn guys!!! Now I am all confused!!!
LOL, Keep the opinions coming - that's what its all about hehe. I would aprecciate info from people with actual setups on turbo EG Civic's as well
Thanks!!!
Mo
Thanks!!!
Mo
Censurebush is correct for the most part. I think it's more like 60% - 40% but regardless of that, he's right... It's cheaper to upgrade your front rotors and pads...rather than convert. However, your question was what is the BEST not cheapest right? I would say that if you've really got brembo disks than Hawk pads are among the best for the cost. A better setup would be upgrading to 4 or even 6 piston calipes but let's face it, for street driving with the odd track day thrown in, that's not a must. If you want to swap the rear drums to disks then go for it... It is definately better than drums in back otherwise why would manufacturers even bother? There must a be a reason (cost?) because some companies still use rear drums knowing they are not as reliable as disks. My personal set up is Baer dimpled and slotted rotors with EBC Green pads. I don't track my car and so far I can't complain. They're quiet, they break well especially once they get warm but let's face it, green EBC is an entry level perf. pad. If you went EBC I would say to go with reds based on how you drive...BUT Hawk is better and cheaper from what I understand. It's up to you, do your homework and read through all the tech threads, people have covered this many times before. GL
there was an article in grassroots motorsports where a very experienced NASA racer was quoted saying swapping to rear discs is not needed.
The fronts do about 80% of the braking. Make sure you have a good set up in front and just check the rears. Maybe the rears are worn down and you just need to replace them.
The fronts do about 80% of the braking. Make sure you have a good set up in front and just check the rears. Maybe the rears are worn down and you just need to replace them.
b16aguy is wrong, no 60/40 with our cars. We have lightass fwd unitbodys crxes is right 80/85% of the braking will be done in the front.
did you know that there are 9 and 10 sec cars with stock drum brakes? more than sufficient. The disc swap is also heavier. Just make sure the hardware and shoes r in correct operating condition then move on.
did you know that there are 9 and 10 sec cars with stock drum brakes? more than sufficient. The disc swap is also heavier. Just make sure the hardware and shoes r in correct operating condition then move on.
i agree with the fornt doing most of the braking but i was just saying upgrade them rear drums kidd b/c thats ***** ghettooooo. then do some nice rotors and pads in the front and stock disks in the back and ur good. i got my stock si brakes all the way around and upgraded rotors and pads on the front and this **** stops on a dime. and i aint got abs
stop all this nonsense. OP, Go into the brake section and look at the stickys up top. PM BRAKEEXPERT cause his name says it all. he really is the brake expert.
EDIT: heres the link you will need! https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1811368
EDIT: heres the link you will need! https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1811368
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b16aguy is wrong, no 60/40 with our cars. We have lightass fwd unitbodys crxes is right 80/85% of the braking will be done in the front.
did you know that there are 9 and 10 sec cars with stock drum brakes? more than sufficient. The disc swap is also heavier. Just make sure the hardware and shoes r in correct operating condition then move on. </TD></TR></TABLE>
darg cars don't need to stop fast they have long run offs, track cars do just going by wha he says how he dirves his car. and also as you said disc's add wight which is bad for drag.
did you know that there are 9 and 10 sec cars with stock drum brakes? more than sufficient. The disc swap is also heavier. Just make sure the hardware and shoes r in correct operating condition then move on. </TD></TR></TABLE>
darg cars don't need to stop fast they have long run offs, track cars do just going by wha he says how he dirves his car. and also as you said disc's add wight which is bad for drag.
As already stated upgrading to rear discs really doesn't do much to improve stopping power. They do look nice though and they are much nicer to work on. Integra front brakes however will make a world of difference, but remember to swap the MC and proportioning valve as well.
Front fixed calipers like Brembo or Spoon would be the next upgrade, but what you have right now should be PLENTY of braking power. Those rotors keep very cool compared to stock blanks. The Tom's pads have a higher coefficient of friction (COF) than the stock Honda ones, which are FF rated, what are the Tom's? Like GG?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by censurebush »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your front brakes do 80% of your braking
save the money you would spend on rear disc conversion NONSENSE and buy some upgraded rotors and calipers for the front.
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there's your answer rite there.
save the money you would spend on rear disc conversion NONSENSE and buy some upgraded rotors and calipers for the front.
</TD></TR></TABLE>there's your answer rite there.
I just spoke to Honda directly and I was indeed incorrect. On a car that comes stock with a disk/drum set up it is 80%-20% on the models that come with disks all around it is 70%-30% from the factory. That being said, swapping to rear disks would be counter productive given the cost and effort involved. (unless you want the bling factor) have you rears checked and resurfaced if necessary. If you still have trouble stopping check the brakes and if it's all good maybe an upgrade to bigger or better disks / calipers / or pads might be in order?
lol thats why when u do a disc swap u need to do the prop valve as well to make it 70-30.....
and btw drums are used on drag cars because there is less friction while brakes are not applied... <--- a little FYI
OEM upsizing the front brakes ( i.e. integra or nsx brakes) and swapping to rear disc looks like your best bet...cuz we all know your car is not a race car... go the cost effective route and enjoy putting your money into something more valuable to you, like a good quality damper setup which will drastically increase your stopping capabilities.
Cheers
-*clicks delete from his subscribed list*
and btw drums are used on drag cars because there is less friction while brakes are not applied... <--- a little FYI
OEM upsizing the front brakes ( i.e. integra or nsx brakes) and swapping to rear disc looks like your best bet...cuz we all know your car is not a race car... go the cost effective route and enjoy putting your money into something more valuable to you, like a good quality damper setup which will drastically increase your stopping capabilities.
Cheers
-*clicks delete from his subscribed list*
Well no matter which good upgrade I do to the brakes, I noticed that almost all of you suggest I have to change to brake proportioning valve. Honestly enough, I hate to say this but when I was having probs with a leak near the valve and was tryin to remove it, we stripped 3 of the bolts on there completely! So basically I just might not be able to remove the valve... Do you guys think that I *just might* be able to still use the stock valve that is on there right now?
Btw, I know this thread I made is about my brake upgrade suggestions and not the prop. valve issue but I thought I would fill in here instead of making a new thread... Thanks for all your input so far guys!
Btw, I know this thread I made is about my brake upgrade suggestions and not the prop. valve issue but I thought I would fill in here instead of making a new thread... Thanks for all your input so far guys!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pcguy760 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you guys think that I *just might* be able to still use the stock valve that is on there right now?</TD></TR></TABLE>'
If you swap to rear discs and don't touch anything else then yes. If you upgrade to larger front rotors i'm more inclinded to say no.
If you swap to rear discs and don't touch anything else then yes. If you upgrade to larger front rotors i'm more inclinded to say no.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">'
If you swap to rear discs and don't touch anything else then yes. If you upgrade to larger front rotors i'm more inclinded to say no.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok that sounds good
maybe I should get some good stock size rotors and pads as well as do the rear disc swap (still kinda confused if I should though - many many mixed opinions on this!) - anyone else care to chime in?
If you swap to rear discs and don't touch anything else then yes. If you upgrade to larger front rotors i'm more inclinded to say no.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok that sounds good
maybe I should get some good stock size rotors and pads as well as do the rear disc swap (still kinda confused if I should though - many many mixed opinions on this!) - anyone else care to chime in?



