I'm really unhappy with my polyurethane lower shock mounts and inner pivots on my lower control arms, and all signs I can gather point towards getting the Suja motoring hard rubber kit available from PIC. Who has this kit, or the ridiculously priced mugen equivalent (not bashing it, I just don't have $800 for bushings), and what are your feelings on it? Quieter than poly? Still stiff? Happy/unhappy?

And also, do you use any kind of lube once they are in or no?

thanks

 

where's the $800 price range come from????

just buy new OEM bushings individually. especially if its just the lower control arms.

id keep the poly in the shock bushing, and just get 2 new bushings for the inside and have them pressed in. that will be all the difference there. just torque the bushing bolts with the weight of the car.

 

If you are planning on replacing all the bushings on the arm then consider buying a new pair of OEM control arms. They are not expensive.

That way you don't have to worry about pressing the bushings in either. Plus you get new control arms.

 

Well i thought hard rubber would be a good compromise, a bit stiffer then the oem pieces and still don't have the binding tendencies that poly does.

Also, kingmotorsports.com is where i priced the mugen stuff....maybe not $800 but pricey **** nonetheless.

 

I think that the hard rubber bushings would be a nice compromise if they are indeed harder then the stock OEM bushings.

However, there seems to be much debate over if the hard rubber bushings are really any harder then OEM, or if they are the same.

In my opinion, they are probably not worth the extra cost considering they might be the same as the OEM bushings.

You are right about the Mugen bushings, they are super expensive. If you decide to get the hard rubber bushings I would get the Suja1 instead.

 

theres no debate about mugen hard rubber being harder than stock. if you had any in your hand you would know.

the ONLY point of controversy is the trailing arm bushings. mugen first came out with stiffer rear trailing arm bushings. then OEM updated their bushing to match the spec or similar because the stock was too soft and failed easily.

if you get the mugen bushings individually, and as you need them, theyre not expensive.

but just get individual stock bushings as you need. stock bushings are good. they last long, and if you torque them right, theyll be fine for years longer than poly.

 

You're right, the only controversy I heard was over if the Mugen trailing arm bushings were harder then the stock bushings.

I still think the Mugen bushings are overpriced considering that each bushing is at least twice the price of the OEM part. Anyway, at that price they still aren't really expensive.

I might have to try some myself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres no debate about mugen hard rubber being harder than stock. if you had any in your hand you would know.

the ONLY point of controversy is the trailing arm bushings. mugen first came out with stiffer rear trailing arm bushings. then OEM updated their bushing to match the spec or similar because the stock was too soft and failed easily.

if you get the mugen bushings individually, and as you need them, theyre not expensive.

but just get individual stock bushings as you need. stock bushings are good. they last long, and if you torque them right, theyll be fine for years longer than poly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I do remember reading about the TA bushings being the same as a ots OEM one.

I originally threw the polys in to replace some bad ones, and some more have gotten... lets say unsatisfactory. My car is going to be very much apart over the next 4-6 weeks for a bunch of work (thank heavens for heated garages), but if i'm going to have some of the suspension off and i have a couple to replace, why not go for the full gambit?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bsmith100 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You're right, the only controversy I heard was over if the Mugen trailing arm bushings were harder then the stock bushings.

I still think the Mugen bushings are overpriced considering that each bushing is at least twice the price of the OEM part. Anyway, at that price they still aren't really expensive.

I might have to try some myself.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

just remember mugen had trailing arm bushings available and set priced before honda ever came out with them. there was no choice before.

now that you can buy them with an OEM part number separately, youd be foolish not to just get the OEM part.

but it doesnt make mugen "over priced". they come out with quality parts and most of the time, worth the money if youre looking for real performance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComeOnKip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but if i'm going to have some of the suspension off and i have a couple to replace, why not go for the full gambit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

because you dont HAVE to get ALL the bushings replaced. you can buy whole OEM arms with new bushings, or aftermarket arms with sphericals or whatever. use a little discernment, figure out whats important or not to replace. look at whats already failed and make a decision what the best alternative would be.

everyone knows i dont care for poly in the suspension. but in certain places, where its just axial rotation, it works fine. i think lower shock bushings are fine. upper a arms are fine. swaybar bushings ok. just not places like inner and outer control arms that articulate in more than 1 axis.

and why should completely rebuilding your suspension be cheap anyway. you get waht you pay for right? you paid $125 i bet for that ES poly kit and now look what you got... crap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

because you dont HAVE to get ALL the bushings replaced. you can buy whole OEM arms with new bushings, or aftermarket arms with sphericals or whatever. use a little discernment, figure out whats important or not to replace. look at whats already failed and make a decision what the best alternative would be.

everyone knows i dont care for poly in the suspension. but in certain places, where its just axial rotation, it works fine. i think lower shock bushings are fine. upper a arms are fine. swaybar bushings ok. just not places like inner and outer control arms that articulate in more than 1 axis.

and why should completely rebuilding your suspension be cheap anyway. you get waht you pay for right? you paid $125 i bet for that ES poly kit and now look what you got... crap. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point. Thankfully I didn't pay full price for the Prothane pieces I used ( I used to be a rep for them) or else I'd be more pissed. I wasn't looking for it to be cheap necessarily, i just think FWIW, the mugen pieces are a bit high priced. So i'm going to order the complete Suja kit by the end of the day. Thanks again for the help.

Just so i can rest easy... no lubricants when installing correct? just proper torque values?



Modified by ComeOnKip at 3:04 PM 10/29/2008

 

whats the suja kit price come out to?

you dont use lubricants with rubber.

 

250 w/o shipping. Not too shabby.

Thanks for the help tyson

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but in certain places, where its just axial rotation, it works fine. i think lower shock bushings are fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Rear lower shock bushings have plenty of non-axial movement