whats up guys. well I let my buddy rip threw the gears the other day in my R and he miss shifted third and well, now it grinds going into 3rd gear above 3k rpm's.

not that big of a deal since Im a honda technician but was wondering what I should replace when Im in there. complete gear sets are very pricey so I was wondering if I could just get synchro sets or do I need complete gear sets?

also, should I replace my bearings while in there or do you guys typically not see them ever go or get loud?

my plan was to replace all my 1-2, and 3-4 synchros and mainshaft and countershaft bearings. what else should I order while Im in there for replacement. I want to do the job once and once only.

also, is there any parts that are available threw honda since I work at the dealer or do I have to go threw the acura dealer for exclusive R parts.

any info is appreciated, thank you.

heres a pic for the guys who dont know me.

 

I wonder if you can use some pieces from the 99-00 Civic Si?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder if you can use some pieces from the 99-00 Civic Si?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just look at the parts numbers, you'll be able to tell if its a acura part or a honda part.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder if you can use some pieces from the 99-00 Civic Si?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, mostly all parts from the B16 are the same and they are usually a lot cheaper. Ive done this a few times. The clutch housing bearings are the same for the mainshaft and countershafts between ITR and B16. the top bearings on the MS and CS are also the same, and I think the needle bearings are as well but I didnt replace those so Im not 100% sure. USDM B16/USDM ITR gearing is the same as well. If you search around auto parts stores you can even find OEM brand bearings (NTN I believe, such as for the diff) as well or bearings used in NASCARs which should be sufficient for our cars as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes, mostly all parts from the B16 are the same and they are usually a lot cheaper. Ive done this a few times. The clutch housing bearings are the same for the mainshaft and countershafts between ITR and B16. the top bearings on the MS and CS are also the same, and I think the needle bearings are as well but I didnt replace those so Im not 100% sure. USDM B16/USDM ITR gearing is the same as well. If you search around auto parts stores you can even find OEM brand bearings (NTN I believe, such as for the diff) as well or bearings used in NASCARs which should be sufficient for our cars as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

 

yeah yeah, laugh it up dick

I are xpeerencd.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah yeah, laugh it up dick

I are xpeerencd.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey man, just practice

 

do you know if I can get just synchros or do I need a entire gear set for each gear?

 

you shouldnt need any gearing unless the dog teeth on the gears are screwed up. you probably only need synchros, and honda sells synchros as a KIT, not individually.

 

I'd recommend looking closely at the Input Shaft bearing too. They're not difficult to replace if you're already in there and they're not very expensive either. They tend to fail earlier on the R's. Mine went bad at ~70K miles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typer_801 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd recommend looking closely at the Input Shaft bearing too. They're not difficult to replace if you're already in there and they're not very expensive either. They tend to fail earlier on the R's. Mine went bad at ~70K miles. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good advice here, my ISB was gone at 60K. Did it when I did my clutch.

 

Don't forget to replace the diff bearing, and adjust the clearance/preload after you do so. When you change all those syncros and bearing, the mainshaft thrust clearance will most likely need to be adjusted too. All the info you need is in the helms. This write-up is somewhat limited but gives you a very good idea of what you're getting into.

http://www.xm-parts.com/articles/hgear/gear.htm

 

Synchros aren't causing the grind. Its the hub/slider. Replace the assembly. Replace the ISB/seal. If using OEM ISB, you do not need to reshim the mainshaft. Check all the other bearings and replace as needed. If you want to be faster, now is the time to play with your gearing if you don't want to tear the trans apart again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Synchros aren't causing the grind. Its the hub/slider. Replace the assembly. Replace the ISB/seal. If using OEM ISB, you do not need to reshim the mainshaft. Check all the other bearings and replace as needed. If you want to be faster, now is the time to play with your gearing if you don't want to tear the trans apart again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Listen to this man.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
http://www.xm-parts.com/articles/hgear/gear.htm
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wish I had this link when I put my gears/bearings in.

 

Your caR reminds me of Arnold's (Lucky-R) caR.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Synchros aren't causing the grind. Its the hub/slider. Replace the assembly. Replace the ISB/seal. If using OEM ISB, you do not need to reshim the mainshaft. Check all the other bearings and replace as needed. If you want to be faster, now is the time to play with your gearing if you don't want to tear the trans apart again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coolhandluke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Listen to this man. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Jesus saves... transmissions.

 

Oh, this reminds me... Sorry to thread jack the OP's post, but I have a problem that is tranny related.

When I bought the R, every gear shifts up fine. However, when I downshift from 3rd to 2nd, it doesn't go in. It will go into 2nd from 3rd if I push slightly into 1st then back into 2nd.

 

thanks for the info guys. I was planning on replacing bearings but whats this about shims for the diff? Ive never messed with diffs before so its new to me. the main and counter shafts are easy enough but Im scared to mess with the diff.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you want to be faster, now is the time to play with your gearing if you don't want to tear the trans apart again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking about it but these cars suck bad enough on the highway and occasionally I do like to take mine on a decent cruise. The 4.9 final will shorten my gears correct?

does anyone swap out there 5th gear for LS's or anything to get more out of 5th. I dont think ill do it, just curious.

Replacing the assembly includes the actual gears, I think its around $300 a pop. Im almost better off finding another trans.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your caR reminds me of Arnold's (Lucky-R) caR.</TD></TR></TABLE> I love lucky-r's itr. his car inspired me to do mine. guess Im a bitter
and Im like 4000 miles away so its ok

 

First check motor/trans mounts.

 

Unless you replace the diff bearings, you don't need to reshim the diff. Reshimming the mainshaft is harder than reshimming the diff.

4.9 final drive doesn't shorten your gears, just ramps you through each gear quicker. A close gear set shortens your gears and gives a much better RPM drop. citrus is running an MFactory close gear set, R.Kelly is running an MFactory 4.928 final drive. You can talk to either of them to see what they think of their setup. I myself have the MFactory close gear set in my D16. 4,900 RPM at 90mph and I get better mileage than I did when stock. Mileage is all about throttle position. More throttle to mainstain speed at low RPM = more fuel used than higher RPM and less throttle to maintain speed. If you feel uncomfortable doing the work feel free to PM me about rebuilding your trans. If you're not sure what to look for when inspecting to see what is causing your problems, you could end up spending more/less and still have the problem when you put the trans back in.

 

thanks for all the info, very appreciated. Ive done a bunch of gear sets at work so assembly shouldnt be an issue, I was just hoping to just replace what needs to be replaced and not the whole gear set if the gear is fine. I want to get out of this as cheap as possible.

is just synchros available? does anyone have the acura parts catalog already hosted online? maybe someone can post up a picture of the parts blow up screen to see if its available seperately.that would be very nice of someone. please

also, I want to do the diff bearing. whats involved in shimming it? is that shimming in between the diff and the bearing. is it already shimmed?


Modified by BMaDOHC at 10:07 PM 10/28/2008

 

You're asking a lot of questions for being a honda tech, a lot of questions for which the answers are in the helms.

Honda doesn't sell syncro related parts individually.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com has the catalog.

 

As v just stated, synchros are not sold individually.

Quick hot-to shim the diff in this thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2395902

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As v just stated, synchros are not sold individually.

Quick hot-to shim the diff in this thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2395902</TD></TR></TABLE>

How about adding how to check mainshaft thrust clearance without the Honda tool.