still having the SAME vtec problem since i put the motor in, it doesnt engage

ecu = good
wiring = good
plugged in
oil level = good
solenoid = good
ecu codes = none
water temp = good
speed sensor = good
grounds = good

anyone?


[Modified by r7, 3:21 AM 7/30/2002]

 

what motor? what head? what ecu? CEL?

 

Damn, to bad your not local but there still is hope...

 

First off, WFT is CEL mean?

I'm sure you're referring to MIL code.

Next, to R7

Let's start from the beginning.

1- Engine type and year
2- Vehicle type and year
3- ECU you're using
4- Any MIL codes it's tossing
5- Describe the problem(s)

That'll do for now.

 

CEL = Check Engine Light - in case that was too hard for you to figure out.

 

Go look in your HELMS manual and show me the page that says CEL on it........

 

whats the resistance between the head of the bolt on your valve cover ground to the negative post of your battery? whats the resistance between the head of the bolt on the radiator support ground to the negative terminal of the battery? What about between a throttle body bolt and the battery? take all these measurements with the engine off and key off.

 

also, if you start the car and let it warm up completely, unplug your coolant temp sensor, and measure the resistance between the two terminals of the sensor.

 

OK, R7

here is something we prepared earlier.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=164863

go through it, and make sure the answer is not there...

then you will be able to offer some SERIOUS cash!

t..

PS does your solenoid go CLICK when you give it 12v?

 

Ok Mr. Technicality, - no I don't know what i'm talking about, I was born yesterday and I have no experience working on Hondas.

The general public does not know what MIL means. Why? Because the general public doesn't have the knowledge nor know how to diagnose their problems. What do they normally see when an electrical problem occurs? The glowing yellow text on the gauge cluster that says CHECK ENGINE

So, in order to help these people, most people (that are helpful and actually try to resolve the problem and not go off topic on some stupid technicality) try to speak their language and refer to the indicator light as the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.

Now if you want to be ***** about and refer to it aa MIL then by all means, do so. I won't be the first to point out many times a newbie has asked - "WTF IS AN MIL?" - as you put it. Everyone knows what a freaking Check Engine light is.

 

That was my next suggestion as well... run a 12v signal wire straight from the battery to the VTEC solenoid - the car and be on or off, doesn't matter.

Listen to see if it 'Clicks'.

BTW: Dumb question.. but what leads you to believe that the VTEC isn't working?

 

 

Why is it that newbies don't know what a MIL code means, because we as the veterans of this sport don't tell them, and allow them to think that CEL is an acceptable acronym.

How many times have you seen VTEC misspelled? - And people get pissed
How many times has some newb refer to a hatch as a EG? - And people get pissed.
How many times have you read someone trying to explain where the service connector is, to check the code, and get it wrong?

...or any number of stupid NEWB things that are done here every day......


BTW, mine doesn't say "Check Engine" it just has a little engine symbol on it. So not everyone is the same.
Everyday, we get a new member here, it's our duty to inform them properly.

Just how people get upset at misspelling VTEC, or referring to a USDM hatch as a EG......

.... why can't we just say MIL code? Because it's easier to say CEL right? So everyone's ok if I refer to all hatchbacks as EG's, and not the proper EH vehicle code that it is.




[Modified by B18C-EJ1, 1:10 AM 7/30/2002]

 

You see, that is the difference between you and me.. Yes i see all of those mistakes everyday. The difference is that I don't get upset and spend an extra 2 minutes of my life trying to change the world by posting on message boards about them and losing sleep over it.

Where as you seem to be pretty **** retentive and must correct every person you come across. You know what? Thats great! Good for you - you are always right - you should run for Mayor. :clap:

Honestly, does it really matter? People make mistakes - correct them and move on. There's no point to dwell on it or to get upset over it.

And no - I'm not admitting that I'm wrong.

 

*ahem*

Let's get back on topic for poor r7 who's probably too afraid to post cuz the big guns are blasting away at eachother.....

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=164863
i wrote that
if you fix it from that
i get the $.
99% chance somthing in there is wrong.
i dont care if everything you listed is "ok" check it AGAIN.
go by the guide i posted.
it helped me alot. (freaking oilpan..)

 

meaning 'we' prepared it,

but yeah - KAMiN will defnitly deserve the dough if you fix your VTEC after reading 'his' excellent thread!

KAMiN

t..

 

Also, I believe the Helms uses ECM, and not "ECU" as he put it in the first B18C-EJ1 post.


[Modified by badCRX, 11:51 AM 7/30/2002]

 

OK, thanks for all the replies first of all

now to answer some questions

it is A 1990 B16A with Y1 Transmission, and the PR3 ECU
5000000 series motor

the check engine light doesn't come on (it does work though)

IN 1988 USDM (Canada) Honda CRX Si

PROBLEM: vtec engagement, will engage at 5200 RPM in FIRST gear, than disengage right away (at about 6000 rpm).. has rarely engaged in SECOND, and it will last even shorter in SECOND.. no other gears..


JARED: I will check the resistances, I have checked all grounds, and made sure they are good

I have gotten a code 21 a few times, piston moves freely, have tried a different solenoid, ( a gen. 2 one ) and same problem.. reset ecu, no engine codes, no vtec
the wire to pin A8 is good, no breaks, and the connector is good aswell.

have checked that list and done all of those, I will try all again.

and, I understand both CEL, and MIL. =]

$$$


[Modified by r7, 2:56 AM 8/1/2002]

 

code 21-vtec spool solenoid valve.

on top of the vtec solenoid, there are 3 screws, loosen them. then take the vtec solenoid off the block. then remove the top potion of the vtec solenoid. push the piston down make sure it moves freeley and moves the arm freely.


[Modified by KAMiN, 10:15 PM 7/31/2002]

 

OK, also manually check your oil pressure if you know someone witha oil pressure gauge...

maybe you are not getting enough oil pressure?

(this should have already been checked, so sorry if i missed it...)

t..

 

he SHOULDNT be getting a code 21. at all.

 

very easy!

apply 12 volts to the single wire on the solenoid (not the sensor)
if it works its either electrical, or the computer is not allowing VTEC...
(You can start the car and apply 12volts in the driveway, and you should hear a loud rattling sound under the valve cover if its even trying to engage!)

If it doesn't, check the oil psi at the front of the head near the solenoid,
if the head has been off since the last time it worked, the oil restrictor may have been left out of the block!

If neither of these fix your problem, email me directly, and I guarntee you I will fix your problem ASAP!!!

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=164863

 

ok, i've taken a the whole vtec solenoid assembly off a working vtec gsr, (vtec solenoid, oil pressure switch assembly) bolted it up, and reset the computer.. still the same thing

edit: just took car out for a spin, same deal.. . vtec sometimes in first, engages @ 5200 rpm pulls to about 6000 than cuts out.. . no ecu/ecm code or cel/mil at all

nothing in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th


[Modified by r7, 3:23 AM 8/2/2002]