91' 4dr ignition issue
Problem details-
This problem started sat. and i have a Relay under the hood (behind driver headlight) making a crazy buzzing noise....so i decided to replace it with a couple known good ones with no success....and then soon after my ignition switch has completly failed....it wont register in the "on" position now (dashboard lights will not come on)....it will turn-over but when the key is released it will slide back to the "on" position and immediatly shut-off....i have to hold the the key slighty forward after starting it to keep it running....this poses as a major safety issue as my car is a stick and steering while shifting and holding a key is just really inconveinient and to much work.
Solution-
Okay well as I have just about dismantled this car before (rebuilt my F22 and fixed all known issues at the time of the rebuild) working this issue isnt very hard....I have already dismantled the column and the ignition and removed the ignition switch as this seems to be the source of the problem....i will be pulling a known good one from another accord....i inspected the lock mechanism looks great and tested the switch simply using a screwdriver and still nothing in the on position....once i install the new switch ill post up if the issue is rectified.
input is appreciated.
This problem started sat. and i have a Relay under the hood (behind driver headlight) making a crazy buzzing noise....so i decided to replace it with a couple known good ones with no success....and then soon after my ignition switch has completly failed....it wont register in the "on" position now (dashboard lights will not come on)....it will turn-over but when the key is released it will slide back to the "on" position and immediatly shut-off....i have to hold the the key slighty forward after starting it to keep it running....this poses as a major safety issue as my car is a stick and steering while shifting and holding a key is just really inconveinient and to much work.
Solution-
Okay well as I have just about dismantled this car before (rebuilt my F22 and fixed all known issues at the time of the rebuild) working this issue isnt very hard....I have already dismantled the column and the ignition and removed the ignition switch as this seems to be the source of the problem....i will be pulling a known good one from another accord....i inspected the lock mechanism looks great and tested the switch simply using a screwdriver and still nothing in the on position....once i install the new switch ill post up if the issue is rectified.
input is appreciated.
Usually you can see the solder joint on the back of the switch, either melted or frosty looking from over heat.
Your description of holding the key to keep it running is a classic symptom.
I've limped a few dozen hondas into the shop doing that. LOL
How did ya like those tiny 6mm screws holding the switch in?? Big fun
Your description of holding the key to keep it running is a classic symptom.
I've limped a few dozen hondas into the shop doing that. LOL
How did ya like those tiny 6mm screws holding the switch in?? Big fun
Hondadude is of course, correct, this is one of the common issues with the ignition switch, the second issue is internally, if you disassemble the electrical portion of the switch, you can clean it up and relube it and it may work for you but ultimetly need changed out, which is what you are doing anyways.
You may see burn marks, pieces of the copper trace will be badly pitted not allowing electrical contact and in best case scenario, the old grease will be hard and it alone will prevent electrical contact so cleaning it up may fix you up, use several wedges to disassemble the switch, the tabs break easy, you can even have a friend help with this so you dont have to glue things back together when you are done.
If it is repairable, as a technician, you can hold on to it to diagnose the next guys car that comes along with the same problem, just unplug his, insert yours into the wire harness and start his car with a screwdriver in your switch, keep your good switch and sell him a new OEM unit.
The key here that yours is not making good contact either internally or externally as Hondadude explained is that the idiot lights do no stay on in position II (run). This is a major Honda Pattern Failure issue and you have done a great job troubleshooting.
You may see burn marks, pieces of the copper trace will be badly pitted not allowing electrical contact and in best case scenario, the old grease will be hard and it alone will prevent electrical contact so cleaning it up may fix you up, use several wedges to disassemble the switch, the tabs break easy, you can even have a friend help with this so you dont have to glue things back together when you are done.
If it is repairable, as a technician, you can hold on to it to diagnose the next guys car that comes along with the same problem, just unplug his, insert yours into the wire harness and start his car with a screwdriver in your switch, keep your good switch and sell him a new OEM unit.
The key here that yours is not making good contact either internally or externally as Hondadude explained is that the idiot lights do no stay on in position II (run). This is a major Honda Pattern Failure issue and you have done a great job troubleshooting.
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twinlord1
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Nov 13, 2006 03:09 PM




