94 accord ex 5spdvtech acceleration problem
when the car is cold, just started up it has good power and the vtech kicks in and it has alot of power .but as soon as the engine is warmed up it losses that power and it seems it has no pickup after 3.5 4000 rpms like the vtech is not kicking in...
somebody told me its because i have no cat on it but i wouldn't think y it would run good cold if it was that.
Anyone have any suggestions i have no clue the CEL does not come on all the time but it comes on sumetimes usually when i run it hard cold.
somebody told me its because i have no cat on it but i wouldn't think y it would run good cold if it was that.
Anyone have any suggestions i have no clue the CEL does not come on all the time but it comes on sumetimes usually when i run it hard cold.
I think the VTEC works off of oil pressure, warm engine equals thinner oil, when was the last oil change. I am sure some other good answers will come along, there are tons of info here throughout the site, do a good long search.
i just changed the oil about 1000 miles ago and i'm using 5W-30 castrol
today i took the V-tech selenoid off and cleaned the screen and its still doing it. it wasn't all that cloged up though ..it has to be something that deals with the engine temperature
today i took the V-tech selenoid off and cleaned the screen and its still doing it. it wasn't all that cloged up though ..it has to be something that deals with the engine temperature
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 09metcalf.dylan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when the car is cold, just started up it has good power and the vtech kicks in and it has alot of power .but as soon as the engine is warmed up it losses that power and it seems it has no pickup after 3.5 4000 rpms like the vtech is not kicking in...
somebody told me its because i have no cat on it but i wouldn't think y it would run good cold if it was that.
Anyone have any suggestions i have no clue the CEL does not come on all the time but it comes on sumetimes usually when i run it hard cold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But it does set a check engine light?
If so start there. look in the FAQ forum on how to pull codes, all you need is a paper clip! The catalytic converter will not matter unless it is clogged, if you dont have one that still will not affect it. Once you find your code go from there. It wouldn't hurt to check all the fluids either.
somebody told me its because i have no cat on it but i wouldn't think y it would run good cold if it was that.
Anyone have any suggestions i have no clue the CEL does not come on all the time but it comes on sumetimes usually when i run it hard cold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But it does set a check engine light?
If so start there. look in the FAQ forum on how to pull codes, all you need is a paper clip! The catalytic converter will not matter unless it is clogged, if you dont have one that still will not affect it. Once you find your code go from there. It wouldn't hurt to check all the fluids either.
The MAP sensor voltage on a fully warmed up engine should be just a hair under 1 VOLT DC on the wire going back to the ECU, check it out and let us know. Warm idle that is.
That is interesting! I have a 94 honda accord. I never run the car cold...
But sence I have a cold air intake and in NC it just got cold I noticed a good difference when I hit vtec and even under normal driving.
so how is your air filter???
but its probobly your oil pressure!
check CEL probobly comes on because the engine is not warm enough to opperate that rough.
But sence I have a cold air intake and in NC it just got cold I noticed a good difference when I hit vtec and even under normal driving.
so how is your air filter???
but its probobly your oil pressure!
check CEL probobly comes on because the engine is not warm enough to opperate that rough.
the air filter is clean. the oil pressure has to be good if it runs good cold why would the oil pressure change when it warmed up. the check engine dosnt come on all the time only when i run it hard cold. but the check engine light isnt on all the time, would the code be saved in the memory if the light isn't o
thanks for all ur help.
thanks for all ur help.
There could still be a code in the ECU, go to AutoZone and get it pulled for free and let us know, also was the light on steady or was it flashing?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Duane_in_Japan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There could still be a code in the ECU, go to AutoZone and get it pulled for free and let us know, also was the light on steady or was it flashing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why? You know map sensor voltages but cant explain how to pull codes?
I'm pretty sure 94 will be the same as 93. Remove your passenger kickpanel, there should be a blue two pin harness not plugged to anything. Use a paper clip and jump from one side to the other, then turn the key forward, the check engine light will flash, long flash is a ten digit, short flash is a single digit, and it will tell you your code. like, long-long-long-long-short-short-short would be a 43.
This is all in the FAQ forum!
Why? You know map sensor voltages but cant explain how to pull codes?
I'm pretty sure 94 will be the same as 93. Remove your passenger kickpanel, there should be a blue two pin harness not plugged to anything. Use a paper clip and jump from one side to the other, then turn the key forward, the check engine light will flash, long flash is a ten digit, short flash is a single digit, and it will tell you your code. like, long-long-long-long-short-short-short would be a 43.
This is all in the FAQ forum!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FunnyVictor86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">waste of time ... get a CEL reader</TD></TR></TABLE>
read before you jump to conclusions, it will not Waste your time!
read before you jump to conclusions, it will not Waste your time!
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VTECwalka
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... what oil weight are you using?

