My h22a wont go past 2k rpm and ive even try an s300 and still the same thing all it does when i start the engine with the s200 it starts fine but like 7sec later it starts dying on me slowly untill it shuts off and when i try to rev it all it does is backfire and like shoking wanting to shutdown.
Heres my set up:

Hondata S200
Fully built H22a
Built head(everything aftermarket)
After market piston, rods, crank ect...
Gt40R
Custom Turbo Manifold
3" IC Pipes
3" Exhaust
Tial WG(40mm) and BOV
Big front Mount intercooler(biggest you can fit on a EG6)
Precision 1000cc
AEM Fuel Rail
Custom Throthle body(3.5")
Custom Intake Manifold(3.5")
AEM 3.5 Bar map sensor
and for the wire harness i used a Type-R some one please help!!!!


I also decided to do a hondalog on my car and heres what it came up to be: i got 4 error codes Crank Angle Sensor, Throthle Position Sensor, Intake Air Temp, Idle Control can any one please PLEASE help me fix all of this problems im new to hondas and hondata and my car wont go past 2k rpm does any one think that all those errors are causing my car not rev past 2k rpm? well i attached the file so any one could look at it, any suggestions are welcome, Thanx in advance!

This is what i recorded when i started the car and it just shut of, heres a link to the file:

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=4E1NTNJI

sorry for the megaupload stuff i dont know another way how to get it to you, its simple all you do is enter all the 3 letters to where it says "Here" and then click "Download" and then it will ask you to wait 25sec and then you click on "Free Download", if you have any questions on how to get the file let me know.

PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by colocho19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My h22a wont go past 2k rpm and ive even try an s300 and still the same thing all it does when i start the engine with the s200 it starts fine but like 7sec later it starts dying on me slowly untill it shuts off and when i try to rev it all it does is backfire and like shoking wanting to shutdown.
Heres my set up:

Hondata S200
Fully built H22a
Built head(everything aftermarket)
After market piston, rods, crank ect...
Gt40R
Custom Turbo Manifold
3" IC Pipes
3" Exhaust
Tial WG(40mm) and BOV
Big front Mount intercooler(biggest you can fit on a EG6)
Precision 1000cc
AEM Fuel Rail
Custom Throthle body(3.5")
Custom Intake Manifold(3.5")
AEM 3.5 Bar map sensor
and for the wire harness i used a Type-R some one please help!!!!


I also decided to do a hondalog on my car and heres what it came up to be: i got 4 error codes Crank Angle Sensor, Throthle Position Sensor, Intake Air Temp, Idle Control can any one please PLEASE help me fix all of this problems im new to hondas and hondata and my car wont go past 2k rpm does any one think that all those errors are causing my car not rev past 2k rpm? well i attached the file so any one could look at it, any suggestions are welcome, Thanx in advance!

This is what i recorded when i started the car and it just shut of, heres a link to the file:

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=4E1NTNJI

sorry for the megaupload stuff i dont know another way how to get it to you, its simple all you do is enter all the 3 letters to where it says "Here" and then click "Download" and then it will ask you to wait 25sec and then you click on "Free Download", if you have any questions on how to get the file let me know.

PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!



</TD></TR></TABLE>

there are two crank angle sensors. Find out which one it is. CKP is on the oil pump, CYP is in the distributor. That is why your engine will not run. You need to fix all the codes you have.
and being that you have 1000CC injectors, its most likely not going to run well to begin with if this is just a basemap you are running.

What year engine are you using? OBD1 distributor or OBD2?

 

Well when I did the hondalogger it says is Number:4 Code:CKP Description: Crank Angle Sensor, and the engine is 98 and i think the destributor is OBD2 im not shure how would i find out? And on the map thing well my buddy let me borrow the s200 and he told me that its tuned for 1000cc with a 3bar map sensor but the only difference is that he has a B-series motor and my is a H-series, thanx for you help man i really want to fix all the problems before tuning it cause im tryna take it to MIR(Maryland International Raceway) on Nov. 9 for the last track day of 2008 Season.

 

Make sure the cam timing is correct

inspect crank sensor on oil pump and make sure it is plugged in (may have to replace it)


you know, if you are going to eventually want to mess with the cam gears, you are going to need to use an OBD1 timing setup. The OBD2 distributor is locked and unadjustable and if you try and move the exhaust cam gear, you will get a CYP check engine light.

 

ill check the timing tonight and ill check the CKP, i have a concern ive read on another forum that the JDM H22 does not have a CKP im not really shure about that till i check tonight cause my engine is also a JDM, ill let you know tonight and thanx for the help but what about the other errors you think they are also making my engine run bad and do you have any suggestions on them?

 

hey ive just checked the motor one more time and theres no crank sensor! so what would you suggest i do about that code?

 

morning bump!

 

someone told me that i need to change my obd2 dizzy to and obd1 dizzy and said that Obd1 the crank sensor is in your distributor...
obd2 the cranks sensor is behind the crank pulley... if you are running a obd1 ecu.... you need to run a obd1 distributor and rewire for the crank sensors in the dizzy....

 

if the oil pump does not have a crank sensor on it then the cheapest way would be to get an OBD1 distributor and convert the wiring:

http://bbmoto.net/wiki/index.p...rsion

 

Cool thanx, just wondering is there a way how i could make my OBD2 dizzy and make it a OBD1 dizzy? and if thats not possible when i get the OBD1 dizzy and i do the wiring you think that might fix my problem with the car not rev. more than 2000rpm?

 

Sup, I wanted to say thanx for all your sugestions I come to realize that the motor and engine harness are both obd2, the problem with the crank sensor is now solved :D the only problem with it was a single wire let me repeat a SINGLE wire that was not hook up right it was in the wrong place and that wire was blue RPM wire it was hook up to the Crank negative wire or positive cant remenber but once I removed it and place it with just the blue wire of the resister box it was just like the engine took a big deep breath and relaxed! so two error codes went away that was the CKP(crank angle sensor) and the TPS(throttle position sensor) now I only have two error codes left they are the Intake Air Temp. and Idle Control, so my question to you is should I worry about those two error codes?

Now I still havent Rev. my car at all cause its night time cant really make loud exhaust noise, so far good things I noticed is that the car starts smoothly and its stays on untill I shut it of, before that car would not turn on easy and like 7 sec later it would shut of but it self.

 

you probably have the wires backwards on the IAT and IAC, they are the same connector, two wire circle connector...

 

Sup guys im having a new problem with the car if noticed that cylinder #3 is not firing at all, what can cause that cylinder not to be working?

Heres what if done and tested:

1. Changed the distributor cap and the inside of the distributor
2. Brand spark plug wires
3. Brand new Spark plugs
4. Ive noticed theres not a constant spark on the cylinder #3 spark plug wire like cylinder #2 spark plug wire.
5. When the car is on i swap the wire from #2(wich is working fine) to #3 and still not firing.
6. Ive changed spark plug on cilynder #3 again and still no go.

So at this point im thinking some possibilities that ive read on another forum and its the injector may not be working, or i might not have enough ground since i only have 2 and read that on h22 should be 3 grounds. Please i need some help on this one im kind of runing out of options.

 

if your not getting "spark" on cyl 3 than its a spark problem not a injector problem. which 99.9% of the time is a wiring problem.

yes you need to fix the codes for IAC and IAT before having the car tuned.

triple check your resistor box wiring, thats where most people make mistakes.

 

oh ok i did not do the wiring of the resistor box, do you happen to know of a thread for wiring a resistor box?

As for the intake air temp. ill add that to the throttle body? and for the idle control im kind of lost cause i have a aftermarket throttle body and theres only one sensor that hooks up and thats the one with tells the ecu how much open is the throttle body butterfly, so i need help on that ill take some pics and post them up tomorrow to show you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by colocho19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ok i did not do the wiring of the resistor box, do you happen to know of a thread for wiring a resistor box?

As for the intake air temp. ill add that to the throttle body? and for the idle control im kind of lost cause i have a aftermarket throttle body and theres only one sensor that hooks up and thats the one with tells the ecu how much open is the throttle body butterfly, so i need help on that ill take some pics and post them up tomorrow to show you.</TD></TR></TABLE>


do a search and you can find the resistor box wiring pretty easy. there was a post up this morning i think in forced induction on a resistor box how to.

air temp has nothing to do with the throttle body, air temp is on the intake manifold on an obd1 car, and usually in the air intake on an obd2 car. if its an obd2 set up, use an obd1 air temp sensor and connector and install it in the intake manifold.

the sensor you are talking about with the throttle butteryfly is the throttle position sensor (tps)

the idle air control valve is on the intake manifold as well. if you have a custom intake manifold odds are you do not have an idle air control motor. a decent tuner can work around this, but you loose some control ability for sure. and you can dissable the IACV code in the software. the air temp sensor needs to work though

 

Yes im sorry thats exactly what i was tryna say the intake manifold not the throttle body, ill add the air temp sensor to the intake manifold.

I do have an aftermarket throttle body and intake manifold so the idle control is not an option for me, so by "loose some control ability" what exactly do you mean is that bad not to have how would it helped me if i did? ive seem my friends car and also has the almost the same aftermarket intake manifold and throttle body and only has the sensor for the TPS and it doesnt seem to bother him not having the idle control valve!

 

its just going to depend on your tuner. adding a iacv IS an option, you just have to do some fabricating.


who is tuning the car

 

Im gona tuned like that cause i dont really want to mess up the intake manifold it cost me ALOT of money, and the person who is gona tuned it is Jason Hunt i think thats hes name he races for cobalt and i think before he used to race for honda now he is tunning every day at Mach V here in sterling VA the guy is a real hardcore tuner everyone here go to him and they tell me he is the best for honda, hopefuly hell be able to tuned it with out it hes done it before to that same friend of mine that has almost the same throttle body and intake manifold as me.

 

jason is a good guy, he will be able to work around the no iacv no problem.

 

Oh cool so you know the guy! ive only met him once he gave his e-mail to setup an appointment for the tuning, well is good to know that he would be able to get around that and ill be adding the air temp sensor as soon as i get one, now on cylinder number #3 yesturday i try turning on the car and swaping cylinder #2 spark plug wire and putting it on cylinder #3 and it would still not fire so im guessing that the problem is within cylinder #3 and so i changed the spark plug on that cylinder again and still no go now my last options are to check the wiring on the resitor box, swap the dizzy with a good know dizzy and last is get new known working injector and place it on that cylinder, if none of those things work than i dont know what could be wrong.

 

yes ive known jason for years, he's a good guy. good luck getting it figured out. i assume you have already done compression and leak down tests right?

 

well that is my next step i just havent had time to get the gauge from ma friend, im gona do that tomorrow ill let you know what it came up to be, but the leak down test i cant take it to a shop for now cause i dont have plates for the car yet once i get plates ill do that and depending on that im gona get it tuned.

 

Good news! ive got my car runing straight now it revs fine and sounds mean, the problem with all was that a wire of the injector from cylinder #3 was not getting contact with the ecu so my guessing was that the wire inside the wireharness was cut so now ive ran a straight wire from that injector to the ecu and it worked fine ive also notice that the dizzy was not messed up at all once i fixed the injector and turn on the car it was straight now theres a constant spark on cylinder #3 so the spark plug wire, so dizzy, injectors, resistor box ect... they are all good. Now all i need to do is a compression and leak down test see how that comes out oh yeah and add the air temp sonsor after that add my driveshaft axles and is of to the tuner, thanx for all your help man!

 

glad you figured it out. pretty crazy how 1 bad wire can freak the whole car out huh?