TO set the timing @ 16 deg i had to advance the dizzy at its max point , (full advance)

This sure inst normal, can some one share this kind of experience or the problem resulting in this situation





Modified by salman at 2:11 AM 10/16/2008

 

 

You might be 1 tooth off on your cam gear.

 

Going to check that Now!.
will update in 2 hours or so

 

I had this problem, just fixed it yesterday. Turns out my itming was right but my dizzy was bad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordaffair &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had this problem, just fixed it yesterday. Turns out my itming was right but my dizzy was bad</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, dose ur car had any other symptoms other then i have?
above mentioned is the only problem.
NO starting problem
No engine checks,

If its dizzy, will it be some were related to ign coil inside the dizzy?

 

I had no starting problems, it ran poorly and idled somewhat poorly. I had a CEL, code 9, BUT all the testing on the dizzy actually checked out good.

It could be a number of pieces at fault in the dizzy I imagine....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordaffair &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had no starting problems, it ran poorly and idled somewhat poorly. I had a CEL, code 9, BUT all the testing on the dizzy actually checked out good.

It could be a number of pieces at fault in the dizzy I imagine....</TD></TR></TABLE>

My car idels smooth, starts ok and no engine checks related to dizzy.,..

 

Did you check your timing already by lining up the amrks on the crank pulley and cam gear?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordaffair &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you check your timing already by lining up the amrks on the crank pulley and cam gear?</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are not perfectly straight, they are half tooth out..

 

well i will start off with the easiest way to hardest ways to check this.

start by jumping the code plug so your timing doesn't jump around while your car idle's. ( i have done timing with this jumped and not jumped so it works both ways but i just say jump it)

1: i'm guessing you have a timing advance timing light so this refers to using one. now set it up like you normaly do, then check base timing at 0* on the timing light. then once that is set properly go and set your timing light to 16*. now with the dizzy bolts slightly loose turn the dizzy till it lines up at 16* on the crank. (middle out of the 3 dashes but them self) If it doesn't then your machanical timing is off.

2. set crank at tdc and check the cams, if they don't both say up at the top and the notches don't line up it is off. ( just so you know they don't go level with the ground, but level with the head. i use the spot where the valvecover gasket sits to reference.) now i always set the intake cam first then put a wrench on it and hold it in place while a buddy turns the crank counter clockwise to put tension on the timing belt while i slide it on the exhaust cam. once on he holds the tension and i tighten the tensioner. that is about it for the timing, this has served me well in the past.

it should not be off if you do this right. if the timing is still off then you probally have a bad timing light or timed it wrong

thats about all i can think of

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91jdmhatchback &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i will start off with the easiest way to hardest ways to check this.

start by jumping the code plug so your timing doesn't jump around while your car idle's. ( i have done timing with this jumped and not jumped so it works both ways but i just say jump it)

1: i'm guessing you have a timing advance timing light so this refers to using one. now set it up like you normaly do, then check base timing at 0*

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, but i dont know how to check base timing at 0*.

What i did..
Warmed up the car,
Jumped the timming connector,
installed the timing Gun, on cyln 1,
Had remarked(painted white) the middle mark on crank pully.
lose the dizzy bolts and advanced the ign till it Aligns with 16* mark..

thats about it...

 

Dizzy



Cams marks

Alittle out.






When properly alings the cam this much crank timing is off.




I rotated the crank 3 times.



I dont think there is any mechanical issue, ill ask a friend to check my timing with his gun, Tonight..

 

Well dose it got any thing to do with Cams, As i am running crower stg.2 cams??

 

Isn't that mark supposed to be on the white line?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civiccross &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Isn't that mark supposed to be on the white line?</TD></TR></TABLE>

YEa from factory, the mark is white, but the paint drained off, current white mark is the 16deg @crank

 

actually that all looks pretty good to me...but are the marks on the cam gears level with the head? I can't tell that close up

And the point on the pulley isn't always 100% lined up, but you'll know if you move your cam gears one tooth the mark on the pulley will move further in either direction...

 

wht do u mean by level with Head?

the picture of cam gears was taken when crank pully was in level with the mark at timing belt cover, cam the cam gears were not perfectly in level of each other.

after that i leveled the cam gears and the difference which resulted can be seen at the crank pully picture. at that level cam gear were matching with each both center level line as wwelll as out line, both are on cam cover,

I dont know how to level cams with head..

 

I was looking at the dohc repair manual, never mind the level with the head part, thats just for sohc's apparently, it seems like you're doing it right

The marks in the cam gears point to a mark between them

http://media.honda.co.uk/car/o...5.pdf

 

thats the way i have installed the Timming belt, the only difference is that i didnt used cam shaft stopers pins..

 

if it's all lined up proper you may need either a new dizzy or a new ecu...

I'll see if anyone else can chime in with something else

 

Looks like your timing is correct. The dash on the crank which is away from the other 3 is tdc. The 3 other marks are for if you have a timing gun which does not have timing advance feature(**** to adjust timing). The center dash is 16* the others are 14 and 18*.

 

i believe when milling your head or block that will change your timing. esp the closer the head is to the block. so if the motor has been milled alot might need to get adj cam gears. just a thought of what could be happening

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grant97teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe when milling your head or block that will change your timing. esp the closer the head is to the block. so if the motor has been milled alot might need to get adj cam gears. just a thought of what could be happening</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am using SIMGLE layer head gaskit. =.5mm milled... i forgot to mention that..

 

You may need aftermarket cam gears!