wobbly crank pulley
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built LS i just got running. car runs fine, no "weird" noises or anything like that. when the car is running, the pulley wobbles like its loose, but its not. when i pull on it with two hands i can feel the crank? moving very little, but the pulley doesn't move a all.
what could this be?
what could this be?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i pull on it with two hands i can feel the crank? moving very little, but the pulley doesn't move a all. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Can you be a little more clear on this statement? I suggest that you don't run the car hard at all, because any significant imbalance at the crank pulley can certainly destroy bearings, as well as annihilate the oil pump.
Can you be a little more clear on this statement? I suggest that you don't run the car hard at all, because any significant imbalance at the crank pulley can certainly destroy bearings, as well as annihilate the oil pump.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">built LS i just got running. car runs fine, no "weird" noises or anything like that. when the car is running, the pulley wobbles like its loose, but its not. when i pull on it with two hands i can feel the crank? moving very little, but the pulley doesn't move a all.
what could this be?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Has the crank pulley ever been heated?
I had a set of cam gears installed in my first Honda (b16a2) by someone and they heated the crank pulley with a torch in order to make the crank pulley bolt easier to crack. This in turn burned the rubber harmonic balancing material in the pulley causing it to deteriorate rapidly and eventually separate the sections of the pulley, making a mess. I replaced it, and now 6 years later I keep that crank pulley on my dresser to remind me every day that if you want something done right, do it yourself
Get a new crank pulley
what could this be?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Has the crank pulley ever been heated?
I had a set of cam gears installed in my first Honda (b16a2) by someone and they heated the crank pulley with a torch in order to make the crank pulley bolt easier to crack. This in turn burned the rubber harmonic balancing material in the pulley causing it to deteriorate rapidly and eventually separate the sections of the pulley, making a mess. I replaced it, and now 6 years later I keep that crank pulley on my dresser to remind me every day that if you want something done right, do it yourself

Get a new crank pulley
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thanks for the reply..
ill try....when we saw that the pulley was dancing i told my friend, the owner, to try and move the pulley with his hand but he couldn't. we then got the car off the ground and i moved it in and out and i could feel the crank moving very slightly, but enough to hear the metal to metal contact.
i never built a motor so idk how much movement should there be if any.
we put 7 miles on the motor. its not going anywhere until we figure out wtf is the problem.
ill try....when we saw that the pulley was dancing i told my friend, the owner, to try and move the pulley with his hand but he couldn't. we then got the car off the ground and i moved it in and out and i could feel the crank moving very slightly, but enough to hear the metal to metal contact.
i never built a motor so idk how much movement should there be if any.
we put 7 miles on the motor. its not going anywhere until we figure out wtf is the problem.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pwrofdrm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Has the crank pulley ever been heated?
I had a set of cam gears installed in my first Honda (b16a2) by someone and they heated the crank pulley with a torch in order to make the crank pulley bolt easier to crack. This in turn burned the rubber harmonic balancing material in the pulley causing it to deteriorate rapidly and eventually separate the sections of the pulley, making a mess. I replaced it, and now 6 years later I keep that crank pulley on my dresser to remind me every day that if you want something done right, do it yourself
Get a new crank pulley
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i had someone else say the same thing. ill try putting on the one from my car. thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HeikDiesel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">worn out thrust washers on the crankshaft?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its freshly rebuilt.
Has the crank pulley ever been heated?
I had a set of cam gears installed in my first Honda (b16a2) by someone and they heated the crank pulley with a torch in order to make the crank pulley bolt easier to crack. This in turn burned the rubber harmonic balancing material in the pulley causing it to deteriorate rapidly and eventually separate the sections of the pulley, making a mess. I replaced it, and now 6 years later I keep that crank pulley on my dresser to remind me every day that if you want something done right, do it yourself

Get a new crank pulley
</TD></TR></TABLE>i had someone else say the same thing. ill try putting on the one from my car. thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HeikDiesel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">worn out thrust washers on the crankshaft?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its freshly rebuilt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the reply..
ill try....when we saw that the pulley was dancing i told my friend, the owner, to try and move the pulley with his hand but he couldn't. we then got the car off the ground and i moved it in and out and i could feel the crank moving very slightly, but enough to hear the metal to metal contact.
i never built a motor so idk how much movement should there be if any.
we put 7 miles on the motor. its not going anywhere until we figure out wtf is the problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, you definitely should not be able to move the crank in and out. Sounds like someone forgot to put the thrust washers back in.
ill try....when we saw that the pulley was dancing i told my friend, the owner, to try and move the pulley with his hand but he couldn't. we then got the car off the ground and i moved it in and out and i could feel the crank moving very slightly, but enough to hear the metal to metal contact.
i never built a motor so idk how much movement should there be if any.
we put 7 miles on the motor. its not going anywhere until we figure out wtf is the problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, you definitely should not be able to move the crank in and out. Sounds like someone forgot to put the thrust washers back in.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SovXietday »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, you definitely should not be able to move the crank in and out. Sounds like someone forgot to put the thrust washers back in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree...don't waste your time trying a different crank pulley now, that's probably not your problem if you can move your crankshaft back and fourth
No, you definitely should not be able to move the crank in and out. Sounds like someone forgot to put the thrust washers back in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree...don't waste your time trying a different crank pulley now, that's probably not your problem if you can move your crankshaft back and fourth
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">something i was definitively not looking to hear. 
dumb question, whats the easiest way to fix it? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Take a guess.
Oil pan off, oil pickup off, take off the baffling and remove the girdle. I want to say the thrust washer should be on the inside of cyl 4, but the last time I put together a bottom end I had the engine flipped on it's deck. Make sure you have all your torque specs together before you take anything off too.

dumb question, whats the easiest way to fix it? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Take a guess.
Oil pan off, oil pickup off, take off the baffling and remove the girdle. I want to say the thrust washer should be on the inside of cyl 4, but the last time I put together a bottom end I had the engine flipped on it's deck. Make sure you have all your torque specs together before you take anything off too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its freshly rebuilt. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That doesn't mean that they are in there. Like Sov said I'd drop that pan and make sure they are in there
its freshly rebuilt. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That doesn't mean that they are in there. Like Sov said I'd drop that pan and make sure they are in there
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how would you do this while the motor is inside the car? is there enough room between the frame and the crank for the gauge to be mounted??
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...y.php
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...y.php
I would really like to know what causes it to wobble also.. I rebuilt my motor but used all new oem bearings and thrust washers, end play was in check, have had a b16a crank pulley on and noticed abit of wobble. I picked up a new professional products dampener for cheap and still it moves about a mm wobble to it?? Its ran fine for a year now, is my crank bent on the end?
The cranks Honda put in them are twist forged & have been specially hardened. You have to do something MAJOR to noticably ruin the crank.
If you look it up, Honda sells a std and oversize thrust bearing. Since both halves use the 'waste' oil that squirts out of the main bearings between cyls 3&4, it is easy for that to die before any other bearing. Its also a spot not always polished by incompetant shops. Also, very heavy duty pressure plates & riding the clutch can burn it out easily. IDK what Honda specs are, but chances are you aren't allowed more than a few thousanths of movement.
If you look it up, Honda sells a std and oversize thrust bearing. Since both halves use the 'waste' oil that squirts out of the main bearings between cyls 3&4, it is easy for that to die before any other bearing. Its also a spot not always polished by incompetant shops. Also, very heavy duty pressure plates & riding the clutch can burn it out easily. IDK what Honda specs are, but chances are you aren't allowed more than a few thousanths of movement.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cranks Honda put in them are twist forged & have been specially hardened. You have to do something MAJOR to noticably ruin the crank.
If you look it up, Honda sells a std and oversize thrust bearing. Since both halves use the 'waste' oil that squirts out of the main bearings between cyls 3&4, it is easy for that to die before any other bearing. Its also a spot not always polished by incompetant shops. Also, very heavy duty pressure plates & riding the clutch can burn it out easily. IDK what Honda specs are, but chances are you aren't allowed more than a few thousanths of movement.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so what do you think i should have him do? car has been sitting in front of my house since i posted this thread. lol
If you look it up, Honda sells a std and oversize thrust bearing. Since both halves use the 'waste' oil that squirts out of the main bearings between cyls 3&4, it is easy for that to die before any other bearing. Its also a spot not always polished by incompetant shops. Also, very heavy duty pressure plates & riding the clutch can burn it out easily. IDK what Honda specs are, but chances are you aren't allowed more than a few thousanths of movement.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so what do you think i should have him do? car has been sitting in front of my house since i posted this thread. lol
Well if DSM's are any indication, don't run it much until you fix it. Crank walk can really ruin your day. Being an LS, I think you just have to remove the windage tray, oil pickup, and maincap #4. You can usually slip them out, especially if you have extra play. Inspect the crank's surface and if it looks chewed up, you may have to replace it.
An LS that's been rolled 2+ times could qualify for a bent snout.
An LS that's been rolled 2+ times could qualify for a bent snout.
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we opened the bottom end up today and to our surprise the thrust washers were there.
i even put on a different pulley and it still wobbles. the owner is treating to set the car on fire. lol
anyone have any other ideas?
i cant seem to do this http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...y.php because there is no room while the motor is inside the car.
ps. anyone have a stock ls for sale? ha
i even put on a different pulley and it still wobbles. the owner is treating to set the car on fire. lol
anyone have any other ideas?
i cant seem to do this http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...y.php because there is no room while the motor is inside the car.

ps. anyone have a stock ls for sale? ha
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we opened the bottom end up today and to our surprise the thrust washers were there.
i even put on a different pulley and it still wobbles. the owner is treating to set the car on fire. lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You didn't happen to try and move the crank when that was open did you? like hi profile said above, even if they're there they can still be severely worn and have the same problem.
i even put on a different pulley and it still wobbles. the owner is treating to set the car on fire. lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You didn't happen to try and move the crank when that was open did you? like hi profile said above, even if they're there they can still be severely worn and have the same problem.
Could you have somebody push the clutch in and then see if you can still make it move?
Wouldn't this pretty much narrow it down to a thrust bearing or pulley problem?
Next thing to do is check runout on the snout.
Wouldn't this pretty much narrow it down to a thrust bearing or pulley problem?
Next thing to do is check runout on the snout.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SovXietday »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You didn't happen to try and move the crank when that was open did you? like hi profile said above, even if they're there they can still be severely worn and have the same problem. </TD></TR></TABLE> i told myself not to forget and do that but me being an idiot i got sidetracked and forgot to do it. we did however compare the new thrust washers to the ones in the motor and the thicknesses was the same.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evile140 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could you have somebody push the clutch in and then see if you can still make it move?
Wouldn't this pretty much narrow it down to a thrust bearing or pulley problem?
Next thing to do is check runout on the snout.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
we'll work on it tomorrow again and ill give that a shot. thanks..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evile140 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could you have somebody push the clutch in and then see if you can still make it move?
Wouldn't this pretty much narrow it down to a thrust bearing or pulley problem?
Next thing to do is check runout on the snout.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
we'll work on it tomorrow again and ill give that a shot. thanks..
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evile140 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could you have somebody push the clutch in and then see if you can still make it move?
Wouldn't this pretty much narrow it down to a thrust bearing or pulley problem?
Next thing to do is check runout on the snout.
</TD></TR></TABLE> i tried that today and i couldn't seem to move it at all.
Wouldn't this pretty much narrow it down to a thrust bearing or pulley problem?
Next thing to do is check runout on the snout.
</TD></TR></TABLE> i tried that today and i couldn't seem to move it at all.



