Upper Ball Joint / Camber Kit Install
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From: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
Hi guys,
I was wondering if anyone had installed an Upper Ball Joint camber kit on their 4th gen? (yes i've done a search)
I have heard horror stories of people installing them and having them hit around the shock towers because of the upper nut giving less clearance on the control arm.
I am looking at the SPC Camber kit as I believe it has the least clearance requirement on top of the control arm.

The main reason for wanting these is so I can cheaply replace my upper ball joints. I have not really had camber wear issues in the past and my main concern is the price the stealership wants for a set of control arms (because they wont sell me an upper ball joint seperately).
Thanks,
Steve.
I was wondering if anyone had installed an Upper Ball Joint camber kit on their 4th gen? (yes i've done a search)
I have heard horror stories of people installing them and having them hit around the shock towers because of the upper nut giving less clearance on the control arm.
I am looking at the SPC Camber kit as I believe it has the least clearance requirement on top of the control arm.

The main reason for wanting these is so I can cheaply replace my upper ball joints. I have not really had camber wear issues in the past and my main concern is the price the stealership wants for a set of control arms (because they wont sell me an upper ball joint seperately).
Thanks,
Steve.
how would you get the upper ball joint out? planning on doing this as well because last time i got an alignment i had -3.0 degrees camber all the way around...it wasnt too friendly on my last set of tires.
Thread Starter
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From: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
The upper ball joint presses out of the control arm. SPC provides instructions on how to remove the old ball joint and press in their adjustment plate.
Its basically just a slotted plate which you press in, then bolt the ball joint to it.
Its basically just a slotted plate which you press in, then bolt the ball joint to it.
reason they wont sell you just the ball joint is cuz ur not suppose to take just the ball joint out. its made to be permanent with the control arm. i know ppl have taken just the ball joint out but technically ur not suppose to. when i did my suspension i just replaced all the control arms.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
Just buying the control arms is not really an option when they cost $700 a corner at honda.
I have not found any control arms for sale online or ebay etc.
Interesting note about the bump stops... this could be the reason others have had problems.
I have not found any control arms for sale online or ebay etc.
Interesting note about the bump stops... this could be the reason others have had problems.
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i have the Ingalls ball joints on the front of my 4th gen. It helped fix the camber. Its sitting about -0.8* and the top nut slams against my inner fender well.
Its nothing a little hole saw won't fix.
The nut has slipped once on me causing my camber to go about -3.5* and constantly changing. I just tightened it where it was supposed to be (farthest out) and retorqued it 10fl/lbs higher than ingall's recomended and it hasn't slipped again in well over a year.
Ball joints are replaceable, as long as you get the correct ball joint that fits in the upper control arm
A ball joint service kit is gonna be ur best friend. My kit took me about 40 minutes for both sides and hand tools to install.
Its nothing a little hole saw won't fix.
The nut has slipped once on me causing my camber to go about -3.5* and constantly changing. I just tightened it where it was supposed to be (farthest out) and retorqued it 10fl/lbs higher than ingall's recomended and it hasn't slipped again in well over a year.
Ball joints are replaceable, as long as you get the correct ball joint that fits in the upper control arm
A ball joint service kit is gonna be ur best friend. My kit took me about 40 minutes for both sides and hand tools to install.
So I'm on H and R race springs with my bup stops trimmed quite a bit. I'll have problems with these then?(SPC)
Modified by 92SR4WS at 11:02 PM 10/15/2008
Modified by 92SR4WS at 11:02 PM 10/15/2008
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShoofIsLudin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the Ingalls ball joints on the front of my 4th gen. It helped fix the camber. Its sitting about -0.8* and the top nut slams against my inner fender well.
Its nothing a little hole saw won't fix.
The nut has slipped once on me causing my camber to go about -3.5* and constantly changing. I just tightened it where it was supposed to be (farthest out) and retorqued it 10fl/lbs higher than ingall's recomended and it hasn't slipped again in well over a year.
Ball joints are replaceable, as long as you get the correct ball joint that fits in the upper control arm
A ball joint service kit is gonna be ur best friend. My kit took me about 40 minutes for both sides and hand tools to install.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What spring / shock combo are you running? How much lower than stock is it?
What bump stops are you running?
I've heard Ingalls sits a bit higher than SPC.
Its nothing a little hole saw won't fix.
The nut has slipped once on me causing my camber to go about -3.5* and constantly changing. I just tightened it where it was supposed to be (farthest out) and retorqued it 10fl/lbs higher than ingall's recomended and it hasn't slipped again in well over a year.
Ball joints are replaceable, as long as you get the correct ball joint that fits in the upper control arm
A ball joint service kit is gonna be ur best friend. My kit took me about 40 minutes for both sides and hand tools to install.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What spring / shock combo are you running? How much lower than stock is it?
What bump stops are you running?
I've heard Ingalls sits a bit higher than SPC.
I installed upper ball joints from o'reilly's. They're like $53 a side and they
come with instructions on how to set the camber. It takes like a half an hour
a side at the most. I have had no issues with them hitting the shock tower
or anything else.
come with instructions on how to set the camber. It takes like a half an hour
a side at the most. I have had no issues with them hitting the shock tower
or anything else.
Just some FYI i forgot to mention before and don't know if u guys know, but my ingalls didn't have to be pressed in the UCA...the plate below the nut holds them in the hole just fine when its all torqued.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AdReNaLiN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What spring / shock combo are you running? How much lower than stock is it?
What bump stops are you running?
I've heard Ingalls sits a bit higher than SPC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm on skunk2 springs and stock shocks....its a horrible setup. The rear tires are pretty much tucked and the front has maybe a half inch of fender gap. One of my shocks is blown....but surprisingly its not as bouncy as coilovers. My bump stops are most likely compressed to holy hell and are completely and utterly useless.
I don't know if ingalls' for sure sit higher than SPC's, but from the engine bay i can see where the ball joint bolts are trying to say
I've gotten used to the noise, and about once a week i check to make sure the bolts are slipping out of place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I installed upper ball joints from o'reilly's. They're like $53 a side and they
come with instructions on how to set the camber. It takes like a half an hour
a side at the most. I have had no issues with them hitting the shock tower
or anything else. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that $53 just for A ball joint or for front and back? do they have grease fittings or are they sealed units?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AdReNaLiN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What spring / shock combo are you running? How much lower than stock is it?
What bump stops are you running?
I've heard Ingalls sits a bit higher than SPC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm on skunk2 springs and stock shocks....its a horrible setup. The rear tires are pretty much tucked and the front has maybe a half inch of fender gap. One of my shocks is blown....but surprisingly its not as bouncy as coilovers. My bump stops are most likely compressed to holy hell and are completely and utterly useless.
I don't know if ingalls' for sure sit higher than SPC's, but from the engine bay i can see where the ball joint bolts are trying to say
I've gotten used to the noise, and about once a week i check to make sure the bolts are slipping out of place.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I installed upper ball joints from o'reilly's. They're like $53 a side and they
come with instructions on how to set the camber. It takes like a half an hour
a side at the most. I have had no issues with them hitting the shock tower
or anything else. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that $53 just for A ball joint or for front and back? do they have grease fittings or are they sealed units?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 631
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From: Brisbane, QLD, Australia
So it seems that if you have alright suspension then you should be ok to run these adj ball joints...
I'm running Koni Shocks/Tanabe Springs/ES Poly Bump Stops...
Konis are on the lowest setting. The tyres probably just tuck under the guards all the way round and I'm running 16in wheels.
Perhaps I'll take the chance.
I'm running Koni Shocks/Tanabe Springs/ES Poly Bump Stops...
Konis are on the lowest setting. The tyres probably just tuck under the guards all the way round and I'm running 16in wheels.
Perhaps I'll take the chance.
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