No start help - '97 ITR
So I have had my R (CDN '97 #383) for about 4 months now and it has been all around brilliant.
Tonight I stop by my cousins house to chill for a bit, and afterwards get in the car and it will not start.
It will crank all day long, and I am definitely getting fuel and there was no noises of any type that would indicate trouble.
This happened at 12 at night in someone else's driveway with no tools, so I could not diagnose the problem any further.
So what are some common trouble spots with these things? I attempted to search but it seems that usually if these things won't start its either no crank or no fuel, both of which the car is getting.
Is there anything ignition related that will crap out with no symptoms whatsoever? It has new plugs and wires btw.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Carl
Tonight I stop by my cousins house to chill for a bit, and afterwards get in the car and it will not start.

It will crank all day long, and I am definitely getting fuel and there was no noises of any type that would indicate trouble.
This happened at 12 at night in someone else's driveway with no tools, so I could not diagnose the problem any further.
So what are some common trouble spots with these things? I attempted to search but it seems that usually if these things won't start its either no crank or no fuel, both of which the car is getting.
Is there anything ignition related that will crap out with no symptoms whatsoever? It has new plugs and wires btw.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Carl
My hatch recently started doing the same thing.
Turn the key to the ON position and everything sounds normal and u try to start it but nothing happens and no noises.
Someone suggested that it was my main relay???
I would like to know the answer also
Turn the key to the ON position and everything sounds normal and u try to start it but nothing happens and no noises.
Someone suggested that it was my main relay???
I would like to know the answer also
I believe that the main relay problem usually involves the fuel pump not working. That may be your problem, but in my case I can a.) hear the fuel pump running after turning the key to on and b.) smell gas if I let it crank too long.
Could it be my ignitor (ICM)?
Carl
Could it be my ignitor (ICM)?
Carl
My fuel pump is turning on from what I can hear...
Not sure.. maybe I'll take a video of it.
If I turn the key a few times or do it once, then try again 10 seconds later, it works.
Sometimes it will start right up.
Not sure.. maybe I'll take a video of it.
If I turn the key a few times or do it once, then try again 10 seconds later, it works.
Sometimes it will start right up.
There's a common problem with other g3 Integras where it seems fine, but when you try to turn it over it just makes a click sound but no crank. What you have to do (assuming this IS the problem) is rebuild the starter. Since Honda doesn't sell starter rebuild kits, you have to buy the parts from an online Toyota dealership (or in person, but online is cheaper.). Here are the part numbers: Toyota Part #:
28226-74070
28226-64370
and what you do is take the starter apart, look where the current contacts are, replace with newer ones and that should fix the problem. You can also clean the inside of the starter while you have it apart. Hope this helps.
28226-74070
28226-64370
and what you do is take the starter apart, look where the current contacts are, replace with newer ones and that should fix the problem. You can also clean the inside of the starter while you have it apart. Hope this helps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by icepack »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe that the main relay problem usually involves the fuel pump not working. That may be your problem, but in my case I can a.) hear the fuel pump running after turning the key to on and b.) smell gas if I let it crank too long.
Could it be my ignitor (ICM)?
Carl</TD></TR></TABLE>
Remember what the main relay controls: fuel pump, ignition. A main relay is relatively cheap, about $40. Its simply replacement so is worth a try. Try one from OReillys etc, if it works good. If not, take it back.
Could it be my ignitor (ICM)?
Carl</TD></TR></TABLE>
Remember what the main relay controls: fuel pump, ignition. A main relay is relatively cheap, about $40. Its simply replacement so is worth a try. Try one from OReillys etc, if it works good. If not, take it back.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thtguybryan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's a common problem with other g3 Integras where it seems fine, but when you try to turn it over it just makes a click sound but no crank. What you have to do (assuming this IS the problem) is rebuild the starter. Since Honda doesn't sell starter rebuild kits, you have to buy the parts from an online Toyota dealership (or in person, but online is cheaper.). Here are the part numbers: Toyota Part #:
28226-74070
28226-64370
and what you do is take the starter apart, look where the current contacts are, replace with newer ones and that should fix the problem. You can also clean the inside of the starter while you have it apart. Hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually if it was the starter...the ignition would not even turn or make a clicking noise when trying to start it. I would start with your dizzy..take ur ignition coil out and get it checked out for free at autozone or something. check your rotor and your main cap also because its much cheaper. but if it is the ignition coil then yeah it be $75 plus out of your wallet. and another thing is check your timing just incase...you never know what can happen with these Honda's
28226-74070
28226-64370
and what you do is take the starter apart, look where the current contacts are, replace with newer ones and that should fix the problem. You can also clean the inside of the starter while you have it apart. Hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually if it was the starter...the ignition would not even turn or make a clicking noise when trying to start it. I would start with your dizzy..take ur ignition coil out and get it checked out for free at autozone or something. check your rotor and your main cap also because its much cheaper. but if it is the ignition coil then yeah it be $75 plus out of your wallet. and another thing is check your timing just incase...you never know what can happen with these Honda's
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coolhandluke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Remember what the main relay controls: fuel pump, ignition. A main relay is relatively cheap, about $40. Its simply replacement so is worth a try. Try one from OReillys etc, if it works good. If not, take it back.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But a main relay generally will either work or not work, not much in between. The main relay is also very easy to test, if you can feel/hear it click three times at the proper points, then it's working fine.
I'm assuming you meant that the motor will turn over via the starter forever (or until you overheat the starter or drain the battery of course), so it's not a starter issue. Are you getting spark? You need three basic things for the motor to start/run (exluding others such as compression
): spark, fuel and proper timing.
If you are getting fuel (which it sounds like you are), then see if you are getting spark, lots of easy ways to test, I'd pull one plug wire at a time and use a screw driver to almost ground it, you should see the spark jump from the screw driver to a ground source (bolt, hood latch [minus paint], etc), if that's happening then check timing. The dist rotor screw may have backed out and the rotor could be have rotated some.
It's unlikely to be a more severe timing related issue (past the dist I mean) - it's unlikely the timing belt skipped. If you have adjustable cam gears, check them as well.
Pull the plugs, even if the problem is fixed, badly fouled plugs aren't going to work very well. Replace them, or clean them.
Report back after some more testing..
Remember what the main relay controls: fuel pump, ignition. A main relay is relatively cheap, about $40. Its simply replacement so is worth a try. Try one from OReillys etc, if it works good. If not, take it back.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But a main relay generally will either work or not work, not much in between. The main relay is also very easy to test, if you can feel/hear it click three times at the proper points, then it's working fine.
I'm assuming you meant that the motor will turn over via the starter forever (or until you overheat the starter or drain the battery of course), so it's not a starter issue. Are you getting spark? You need three basic things for the motor to start/run (exluding others such as compression
): spark, fuel and proper timing. If you are getting fuel (which it sounds like you are), then see if you are getting spark, lots of easy ways to test, I'd pull one plug wire at a time and use a screw driver to almost ground it, you should see the spark jump from the screw driver to a ground source (bolt, hood latch [minus paint], etc), if that's happening then check timing. The dist rotor screw may have backed out and the rotor could be have rotated some.
It's unlikely to be a more severe timing related issue (past the dist I mean) - it's unlikely the timing belt skipped. If you have adjustable cam gears, check them as well.
Pull the plugs, even if the problem is fixed, badly fouled plugs aren't going to work very well. Replace them, or clean them.
Report back after some more testing..
So after a little bit of an adventure, I have a somewhat rough diagnosis.
I had assumed that because I was hearing the fuel pump when I turned the key to on that it was good but after establishing that I was getting spark and the cams were spinning, fuel was the next thing to check.
Pulled the lower dash, finagled the PGM-FI (main) relay out and proceeded to go through the testing procedure outlined in the Helms.
Turns out that it failed the third test of the three, and needs to be replaced. Given that is it a statutory holiday here in Canada today all of the parts stores and stealerships are closed but I have a main relay on order.
Thanks for the suggestions and I will update this when the relay gets here.
I had assumed that because I was hearing the fuel pump when I turned the key to on that it was good but after establishing that I was getting spark and the cams were spinning, fuel was the next thing to check.
Pulled the lower dash, finagled the PGM-FI (main) relay out and proceeded to go through the testing procedure outlined in the Helms.
Turns out that it failed the third test of the three, and needs to be replaced. Given that is it a statutory holiday here in Canada today all of the parts stores and stealerships are closed but I have a main relay on order.
Thanks for the suggestions and I will update this when the relay gets here.
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