Due to my compulsive nature, I acquired this setup, which now I am trying to actually figure out. First off, I have an '88 STD Hatch I am going to work on. The setup consists of: D15B7 block, PM3-12 Head (from D16A6?), Y1 transmission Correction: transmission type is S1 not Y1 and some (2-stage?) clutch kit. There was some work done to the hole thing that includes 3-angle valve job, some performance pieces, cam upgrade, etc. <U>After researching it</U> it was obvious that this was not a mini me swap, but what kind of a swap is it? According to the guy I got it from it is supped to be fairly potent. Do you guys think it will work in current setup. Is it poor man's mini-me? Can I proceed just like with D16A6 swap? Thanks in advance.

Also, the tranny is supposed to have LSD in it (aftermarket - not original) - possible or hoax? How can I tell?



Modified by radex7 at 11:25 PM 10/11/2008


Modified by radex7 at 8:27 PM 10/12/2008

 

it sounds like you got hoodwinked because all this is just a bit too crazy BUT as long as there is not a VTEC solenoid on the head then yes treat it as a D16A6. I'm not too sure about the tranny... I guess if you see the bar between the axle holes it's not LSD and if you don't it is LSD....

 

if you have a y1 its a b series tranny it wont work , you need a L3

 

Little correction, ladies and gents, the transmission is actually an S1 model. Thanks for your input, guys.
One more thing... I feel proud of myself for one reason... I was actually able to lift this darn thing and carry it from my truck to the garage!


Modified by radex7 at 9:46 PM 10/11/2008

 

pics?

 

Pics? Sure thing, a bunch of them...




And here is the rest:

http://radekonline.com/downloa...4.jpg
http://radekonline.com/downloa...6.jpg
http://radekonline.com/downloa...7.jpg
http://radekonline.com/downloa...0.jpg
http://radekonline.com/downloa...3.jpg
http://radekonline.com/downloa...4.jpg
http://radekonline.com/downloa...5.jpg
http://radekonline.com/downloa...6.jpg
http://radekonline.com/downloa...7.jpg
http://radekonline.com/downloa...8.jpg
http://radekonline.com/downloa...9.jpg
http://radekonline.com/downloa...2.jpg

 

thats a jdm B series trans
i cant rally see in the trans can ya see a like 1/2 inch pin inside it when ya look?

 

You mean this?

 

ok i can see the pin its non lsd jdm b sereis trans it wont work on your d series

 

Yeah, I figured that... it is still worth some money, tough.... Thanks. Additional input on the combo still welcome.

 

as for the "mini me" its usally consest of a block like you have then you put a d16z6 or d1y8 vtec head on it.
What ya have is almost a standard SI motor

did the guy say what cam he put in it?

 

its pretty damn clean under that valve cover heh also if i may ask how much did you buy all of this for..

 

yea i'm curious as well. in good news it looks like the head has been redone in one way or another. looks so clean. probably one of the cleanest a6 cylinder heads i've ever seen lol. looks about as clean as the d16y8 head i used to have for my old mini-me swap.

 

if ya look threw where the distributor goes ya might see a maker stamp on the can end or maybe not. but a after market cam will have a stamp on it somewhere lol

 

OK, I will take a look at it tomorrow and let you know. Is it worth the effort to take the head off and see what is happening down there? I will try to rewrite the e-mail exchange I had with this guy, but I am not sure about a few technical terms cause he typed really fast and and my English is kinda... second language, but here it goes (my comments in parenthesis):

The engine (head) has been ported and polished including 3 angle raceing valves and springs , shaved head , stage 2 cam gear and shaft, block has been board over 1 and the pistons have been upgraded same as cank shaft all racing bearings and seals
(This would be something I might questions cause I noticed there was no valve cover gasket there so I probably should check for other missed items).

(It)... has a new water pump and also new timeing belt and tensor pully it will be way stronger than stock its way strong than an ls it will pull low 12s if not better. ... I will also throw in a trany and clutch kit (and he did, I got it all, I just have to make sure it all matches, ... tranny did not...).

Price-wise - 400.00 for the whole thing. I absolutely not complaining about that, the S1 tranny might be worth half of it... And like I mentioned in the beginning my compulsive nature will take a beating every time I pick up a new hobby.

Techie question, what does it mean - head bored/boarded/bored over? Just re-drilled with a big-*** drill?

 

did ya hear the motor run? prob not since the trans wasnt on, the cam gear looks like its from a integra. does the cam gear look like a wheel with spokes or is it flat?it should have some numbers and letters on it. Im only guessing he just threw some stuff together to sell it. Only guessing though. springs and retainers look stock also

im gonna say the guy was kinda shady. the belt looks old also.If it were me i would take the head off and see whats going on inside, also check for the new water pump.
the trans is deff worth half what ya paid for it, that is if its a good trans. ya like ya said see if the clutch disk fits the trans. also i would take the oil pan off to see whats in there also.

to bore a block is to make the cylinder walls bigger to accept a bigger pistion.


take it apart and takes some pics

 

I just came across this topic on crx community forum:
http://crxcommunity.com/viewto...art=0

It looks like the guy sports exactly the same setup and it actually works (pretty well, too). I will try to get a hold of him and pick his brain, too. Later

 

That's a nice CRX, euro power antenna

 

All right, I took the head off, pistons look remarkably well, new almost. Valves, on the other hand look slightly - baked. But they are much cleaner on the inside. He might have run some cleaner/diesel through the whole thing to clean up that gunk. Can I clean those valves with carb cleaner/engine cleaner/or any other solvent? Also, I did not see a stamp on my camshaft so cannot tell you where it is from. But shouldn't I be able to turn the cam with my hand? Cause right now this thing is unbelievably tight.

I think I am going to turn this into a slow build thread. Thanks for your input, guys.

And I have some pictures.

 

thats kinda what i thoughts all stock
PM3 piston are stock for the d15, all though they look new.unless he bought oversizd pistons there stock ones
i cant make out the cam gear code but its either a integra or a newer civc one like a y7 or y8. by the looks its a integra by the rustyness of it.
as for the head, i see some rust, i would take it in and get it hot tanked.
the valves look good though new or maybe recondtioned.

How did inside the oil pan look?

 

Will get to it tomorrow, anything in particular I should be paying attention to? THX

 

rust, loose bolts missing bolts, chunks of brass, or aluminum.bent rods, ect..
from the looks of the block it looks like it hasnt been ran in a long while.

o and on the head been hard to turn, i would pop of the cam jounals to see whats up on the cam rails.

 

Looks greasy, but no damage or missing pieces. Somewhat reassuring... sleepingciv, I am sorry, I am not ignoring your IM's I just don't get them until the next day... It may be my pop-up blocker or something. The whole thing spins fine, although I wouldn't know as I have no reference or the expertise...

 

run some CLR threw that head and the rust and lime and crud will be gone for the bottem id clean it with a nice tooth brush get the sluge off

 

by the looks of the pistons, you have 0.8 over sized pistons.
if you have aftermarket camshaft, you should be able to tell by stampings on the side of the camshaft(dizzy side)
heres an example of my d16a6 aftermarket camshaft
upper portion says "WEBCAM"
lower portion indicates the model "15 273"