Hey guys, just to start things off, I do not have an ITR. I have a 97 EK with 5-lug, and I figured that this would be the fastest way to get a quick/accurate response regarding my problem.

My car needed new front pads, so I went and got some, and while putting them on, I ran into an issue. While trying to compress the piston back into the caliper, it wouldn't budge. No big deal right? I simply loosened the bleeder screw and the piston moved in easily. The same thing happened on the other side, did it over there too, and I knew that I had to bleed the brakes.

Enlisting the help of my dad, we bled the two front brakes. The brake pedal builds pressure fine while the car is off, but when I start it, the pedal falls nearly to the floor. So we try bleeding all of the brakes. Same thing. Try a one-man bleeder. Same thing. I am beginning to think something is wrong. But what? Is the master cylinder bad? Is it the brake booster? If so, do I buy the parts for an ITR or for a Civic?

Thanks a lot guys.

 

You didn't list this in something you did, but you might have when you where compressing the piston did you take the cap off the fluid reservoir? It won't help you much now, but just a suggestion for the next time. If you kept on bleeding the brakes did air keep coming out of the lines?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Frator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You didn't list this in something you did, but you might have when you where compressing the piston did you take the cap off the fluid reservoir? It won't help you much now, but just a suggestion for the next time. If you kept on bleeding the brakes did air keep coming out of the lines?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes I did remove the cap. I did everything you are supposed to do when changing pads.

I did still get a bit of air each time, but I can't seem to find anywhere that it is leaking.

 

I always just use a C clamp and one of the pads I have just taken off to compress the piston in with. I'm guessing a Master cylinder is your problem. Did you take the brake pedal to the floor when you where bleeding?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always just use a C clamp and one of the pads I have just taken off to compress the piston in with. I'm guessing a Master cylinder is your problem. Did you take the brake pedal to the floor when you where bleeding?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I did. I was told by a brake specialist that it could be the master cylinder as well, so I'm going to try that.

So be that as it may, do I buy a master cylinder for an ITR?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by . a d a m &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


So be that as it may, do I buy a master cylinder for an ITR?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, get it for whatever type of car you have.

 

Just an FYI. Bleeding would be one way to set the piston back in but the correct and easy way is to use a C-clamp (bleeding process is not necessary). By bleeding to press the piston in, your releasing pressure out and may build up air bubbles in the lines if you dont pay attention to the amount brake fluids your draining from the reservoir. Once everything is re-installed, you would have to bleed weather you think theres air bubbles or not. Here is just some info when doing so... keep filling up the reservoir with brake fluids once its 1/2 or 3/4 empty. Before tightening the bleeding screw, make sure you have someone floor and hold down the brake pedal. After bleeding a few times, the brake pedal should tighten up. Before starting the car, make sure theres no sign of leakage anywhere from the booster/cylinder to the calipers. Then start the car and check again for any sign of leakage. If done correctly with no leakage, the brake pedal should feel tight. If not, it may be the booster, master cylinder or even the calipers. If your planning to replace the booster/cylinder, i suggest you stick with OEM wether new or in working condition. Same thing with the calipers, but it would'nt hurt to upgrade. Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, get it for whatever type of car you have.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is not accurate. If .adam have 5 lug then he must have the ITR calipers which I would seriously recommend you do not get the MC for your 97 Civic. Instead go get a MC for the ITR or the GSR(98+) with the 1" MC. It's a direct Fit and will give you better brake feel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by . a d a m &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes I did. I was told by a brake specialist that it could be the master cylinder as well, so I'm going to try that.

So be that as it may, do I buy a master cylinder for an ITR?</TD></TR></TABLE>

theres your problem, you night try making sure the master cylinder is level cause air can get trapped at the very tip if you have just the front jacked way up...its not likely but it is possible.