...

 

uhhh yeah that's what happens when you install a larger rear bar on those POS stock GS-R sway bar brackets. Why in the HELL Honda decided to space the sway bar out away from the subframe like that is beyond me. But when you install a larger bar, the distance from the subframe applies a torque load at the bracket-subframe connection.

Why did you think you didn't need an ASR brace or at least some kind of subframe reinforcement? These issues are pretty well documented, and I'm guessing you're probably not new to modifying Honda vehicles.

The ASR brace might be okay to run with large washers underneath the bolt heads or the nuts (whatever goes inside the subframe on the back side of those holes). But I'll let others chime in.

Most likely the ASR brace is going to be your only option short of an all new subframe welded in. A Beaks kit would have been okay (I'm assuming this is an Integra, as I've had a Beaks kit myself for 5 years), but now that those holes are like that, there's no way a Beaks kit will be sufficient.

 

Bummer...but it's not as bad as I had imagined. I'm sure if you got an ASR brace you'd be fine to mount that bar back up. The ASR brace has threaded aluminum brackets that go on the inside of the subframe so the bolt goes thru the brace, thru the subframe then the brackets.

 

i didnt think i needed one bc i dont do any auto X or track. My car is just a DD. I guess needed it thought. Will the asr brace slip right over that or will i need to get the subframe welded

 

as Gabe mentioned, the ASR brace has pieces that go inside the subframe, so the subframe metal is sandwiched in between the ASR pieces. You'll probably have to flatten out that metal, but you may not even have to do that, as it'll flatten out as you tighten the ASR pieces together.

 

i would probably sand off that surface rust and shoot some pain on it so you dont end up with bigger hole from it rusting out

 

i had the beaks kit and ripped out a 3x3 inch chunk of my subframe. now im trying to figure out what to do

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourstarcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the beaks kit and ripped out a 3x3 inch chunk of my subframe. now im trying to figure out what to do </TD></TR></TABLE>

92-95 Civic/94-01 Integra or 96-00 Civic?

 

I've had the Beaks kit for.. 6+ years without any issues on my 95 Civic Coupe. It has been auto-xed, HPDE on race tires, and DD all with the ITR rear sway bar.

in the case of the OP, I would put some product that seals rust in, and then look at something like the ASR. As already mentioned, hammer in the metal somewhat so it is flat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourstarcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the beaks kit and ripped out a 3x3 inch chunk of my subframe. now im trying to figure out what to do </TD></TR></TABLE>

willing to bet it's a 96-00 Civic. Those have been known for tearout even with the Beaks kit.

I'm with DavidR, had the Beaks kit for years on my Integra and I've never had any problems.

 

I was thinking of making a modified bsq kit where the bolts go all the way through the subframe and grab onto the sheet metal on the other side (about 4 inches away).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beanbag &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking of making a modified bsq kit where the bolts go all the way through the subframe and grab onto the sheet metal on the other side (about 4 inches away).</TD></TR></TABLE>

You would have to come up with a spacer on your bolt the same length as the clearance inside the subframe to keep from squishing the front and rear sides towards each other.

And then there's the possibility that the whole boxed-in area where the LCA mounts could twist or flex if you set it up like that.

 

I think if you just put an ASR brace on top of that it will rip completely out. The ASR kit just spreads the force but its still the same amount going to the subframe. Id call up some places to see if they will weld it. Then get the ASR kit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphalanos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think if you just put an ASR brace on top of that it will rip completely out. The ASR kit just spreads the force but its still the same amount going to the subframe. Id call up some places to see if they will weld it. Then get the ASR kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

spreading out the forces is what would KEEP it from tearing out. His original setup tore out because the stock brackets applied extra torque on those 2 individual points where the bolts were.

 

I'm still kinda confused on how the ASR brace works. If you don't have a rear swaybar from the factory, does the kit allow you to add one by just putting on the brace kit?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gutted-dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm still kinda confused on how the ASR brace works. If you don't have a rear swaybar from the factory, does the kit allow you to add one by just putting on the brace kit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe it does, but you would probably have to drill some holes in the subframe. Shouldn't be a big deal.

 

Sounds good been wanting to beef up the suspension.

 

I still think with the size of the holes in his subframe it might just tear out again with the brace. But maybe not.

 

best bet is to weld the holes grind it smooth again and get the asr brace.

the bottom hole is way too big.