Ok so I will be building my motor once the snow hits the ground and I'm aiming for at least 400whp on pump gas as my everyday car, but would like to keep stock sleeves. I'm almost positive the motor will be ls/vtec with this stuff inside

block:
cp pistons
manly or oliver rods

head: unsure of actual brand valvetrain but will be built. possibly just buying a portflow head from Benson
VictorX IM and all supporting fuel

turbo kit will be a top mount 35r kit. again toss up between AFI and PEAKBOOST


so what I'm asking is, how long do you think the stock sleeves will last? I figure it will see around 20psi to make that kind of power which will be seem everytime the car is driven. all thoughts/comments are welcome. thanks

 

Whats your reason for going with a 35r? A gt30r is much better suited for this setup, a 30r will make more power then the factory sleeves can safely handle. What compression are you going to choose?

 

to be honest there was no reasoning but you are right he 30r would probably be more then enough and ~9.0:1

EDIT: now that I think about it, what would be the downsides to running a 35r instead of a 30r? if its only an extra $200 for most kits to upgrade, I might as well do it now instead of having to spend another $1000+ down the road if I ever want to make more power


Modified by doug118 at 4:32 AM 10/6/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doug118 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EDIT: now that I think about it, what would be the downsides to running a 35r instead of a 30r? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Spool up 30R is good for a touch over 500whp. You will not make more then that on pump gas and you will not make more then that on factory sleeves with any degree of safety.

 

This is a question I’ve pondered, in Europe we run up 99 octane at the pump and 102 in some forecourts, so 99 being widely available, I’m assuming the US octane ratings are the same as Europe?
Based on a GT30 10.1 build what would be considered “safe” tune dependant of course for stock sleeves?
IMO, anything above 300 to 350 used on the road is pointless.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EddieCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a question I’ve pondered, in Europe we run up 99 octane at the pump and 102 in some forecourts, so 99 being widely available, I’m assuming the US octane ratings are the same as Europe?
Based on a GT30 10.1 build what would be considered “safe” tune dependant of course for stock sleeves?
IMO, anything above 300 to 350 used on the road is pointless.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well iirc Europe rates there fuel in RON while US rates it in Octane so i don't think its the same, as far as a safe tune that would be up to the tuner, no 2 motors are identical... i personally have 333whp and i don't think its a waste, i think you can have up to 400whp usable with proper tuning/boost by gear/suspension/etc...

 

A 30R is a bit much for "just" 400whp. A piston/rod 9:1 LS/V with a 30R will make over 400 th the ground with little effort. I've done it with a PoorMan's R. On 93 octane.

That said, that much power to the ground is a little uncontrollable.

Why a topmount though?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EddieCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a question I’ve pondered, in Europe we run up 99 octane at the pump and 102 in some forecourts, so 99 being widely available, I’m assuming the US octane ratings are the same as Europe?
Based on a GT30 10.1 build what would be considered “safe” tune dependant of course for stock sleeves?
IMO, anything above 300 to 350 used on the road is pointless.</TD></TR></TABLE>

NO european fuel grades are not the same as american fuel grades. you 99RON is close to our 91octane iirc.

 

well peakboost and afi bottom mount and top mount kits are around the same price and top mount just seems like its easier to install/removed turbo and such plus all the cool kids are running one

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doug118 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> plus all the cool kids are running one </TD></TR></TABLE>

not true at all.

its all about the front facing sidewinder style manifolds these days

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony413 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

not true at all.

its all about the front facing sidewinder style manifolds these days </TD></TR></TABLE>

mine just got here today

stock sleeves are fine.. see sig

 

how long has/did the motor last at 509?? any more specs on the motor? I just talked to a buddy of mine on here that made 468whp with a bone stock gsr with a 35r setup, 1000cc's, and a victorx manifold. it lasted for a few months before the stock fuel pump **** the bed which blew it up

but like I said, what are the downsides to running a top mount instead of a bottom mount? unless there is a major difference, then I'll just stick with the top mount for ouuu's and ahhhh's

 

stock sleeves are fine. Go simple if this is your first setup. I would say:

piston
rods
arp head studs or whatever

stock head w/ fresh rebuild
valve springs and retainers
GSR cams

affordable but durable turbo manifold
examples

SPA topmount
inline pro
etc.

turbos
57trim t3/t4 .63 back
60 trim t3/t4 .63 back
SC61 if you feel like u will be going for more power in the future

custom 2.5 inter cooler piping (T-bolts on all pressure pipes)
Tial 50mm BOV
Tial 38 WG
ebay intercooler or better

750-1000cc injectors
oem honda resistor box
stock fuel rail
walbro 255
MBC hallman
3 bar map sensor

p28 or p72 ecu socketed
find a good tuner ( That will be the most important thing besides your set up)
drag radials if you are making 350whp+

Might be some more stuff left out. The point is keep it simple and reliable. I would not buy a brand name kit unless I had no clue of what it takes to put a turbo system together.




Modified by VtecCarHauler at 8:36 AM 10/6/2008

 

stock sleeves are fine, just keep it under 25psi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doug118 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how long has/did the motor last at 509?? any more specs on the motor? I just talked to a buddy of mine on here that made 468whp with a bone stock gsr with a 35r setup, 1000cc's, and a victorx manifold. it lasted for a few months before the stock fuel pump **** the bed which blew it up

but like I said, what are the downsides to running a top mount instead of a bottom mount? unless there is a major difference, then I'll just stick with the top mount for ouuu's and ahhhh's</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont buy the fact that your friend made 468whp on a stock fuel pump and injectors. what was his duty cycle ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock sleeves are fine, just keep it under 25psi

</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doug118 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how long has/did the motor last at 509?? any more specs on the motor? I just talked to a buddy of mine on here that made 468whp with a bone stock gsr with a 35r setup, 1000cc's, and a victorx manifold. it lasted for a few months before the stock fuel pump **** the bed which blew it up

but like I said, what are the downsides to running a top mount instead of a bottom mount? unless there is a major difference, then I'll just stick with the top mount for ouuu's and ahhhh's</TD></TR></TABLE>

built ls vtec,

been 8 months so far on a single wally

 

have you driven the car daily at 509whp for 8 months?? if I can get 8-12 months out of the motor I'll be happy


Modified by doug118 at 3:37 PM 10/6/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony413 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i dont buy the fact that your friend made 468whp on a stock fuel pump and injectors. what was his duty cycle ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

240cc injectors don't flow enough fuel for 468whp.

 

it doesn't say anywhere that he made that power on stock injectors. I said he did it with 1000cc's

 

I want to just buy quality parts the first time around instead of getting a cast manifold, ebay intercooler, etc etc.. but out of these 3 kits, which one do you guys think is best?? they end up being the same amount when all the same parts are used (turbo, wg, intercooler) $4300-4500

http://www.synapseturbo.com/mm...bokit

http://www.afiturbo.com/catalo...767dc

http://cheapturbo.stores.yahoo.net/pebtokit.html

 

wow so he thought 1000cc injectors with a stock pump was a smart idea when all he had to do was pay $85 for a walbro 255

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doug118 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well peakboost and afi bottom mount and top mount kits are around the same price and top mount just seems like its easier to install/removed turbo and such plus all the cool kids are running one
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have installed all types of manifolds, there all the same, one is not easier than the other...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doug118 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but like I said, what are the downsides to running a top mount instead of a bottom mount? unless there is a major difference, then I'll just stick with the top mount for ouuu's and ahhhh's</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, spool up, mid range power etc... top mounts make great top end but make less midrange than any other manifold.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock sleeves are fine, just keep it under 25psi</TD></TR></TABLE>

because boost is the end all say all right?

500whp on stock sleeves is not safe, some motors take it, some don't, its not right to just jump on here and say just cause you did it everyone can. Pushing things to the limit is not something everyone can do, and the one guy doing it on here is using motec This is just like the stupid high compression + boost crap when people ask if they can boost there 11.5:1 motors and everybody says yeah no problem its not something everyone can do, or every tuner can do, there are so many variables... OP if you have a second car by all means do what ever the eff you want... I'd also like to know what you all define as "pump" gas...


Modified by blinx9900 at 4:32 PM 10/6/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats your reason for going with a 35r? A gt30r is much better suited for this setup, a 30r will make more power then the factory sleeves can safely handle. What compression are you going to choose? </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

GOOD stock sleeves will be fine...

bad stock sleeves will not... if the motor has been abused its a ticking time bomb and will crack the sleeves.

if you are not planning on race gas at all keep the compression as low as you can, that will keep the stock sleeves happier

the last gt3071r setup we did made ~400 on about 15lbs on pump gas.

also keep in mind that pump gas is kinda scary right now... at least here in the south, getting "real" 93 around here is tough. I'm seeing alot of stations with dirty watery gas.

 

Im running about 505whp on race gas at 20psi. mine is ls/vtec. stock sleeves. but I have a sc61 which takes forever to spool therefore I stay under boost daily driving.