I went to the dyno yesterday and got my AF tuned. That went well. Max Power was only 182 with 135 ft/lbs. I was on a mustang dyno w/ 50" drums. I know they read low, but the car feels like its way too low.

Setup:
USDM B18C5
81.5mm 11.5:1 JE's (head and block have both been shaved) Compression test was 290 on all 4
Pro1s
Pro Gears
310's
SMSP Header
2.5" exhaust
Skunk2 Intake mani
ICEMAN CAI
Stock head

I went to the track on 22's. Leaving the line @ 6k. with 12 psi in slicks. bogged
r/t .094
60' 1.9
1/8th 8.72
mph 79.70
1/4 13.79
mph 95.49

I lost my second pass slip but I left @ 6600 and it still fell on its face at the line and was 13.9 @ 95

Third pass I bumped the FTL up to 7500 and left hard. The car stayed up and didnt flatten out but it didnt run well at all.
r/t .130
60' 1.85
1/8th 5.64
mph 77.88
1/4 13.85
mph 97.74

Im very confused about this setup. Ive been racing since 2003 and all of these passes felt fast, but they werent.

The only thing that I can think thats holding me back right now is not having a PCV system and the nipples on the back of the block are looped since im waiting on my catch can to get welded up.

Is there anythign else that could be holding me up? Could it be the tune?

Any and all input would be great. Thanks!




Modified by slambedcivic at 1:23 PM 10/6/2008

 

maybe a new 3" intake with velocity stack and some headwork will put you where u want to be. numbers arent terrible

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe a new 3" intake with velocity stack and some headwork will put you where u want to be. numbers arent terrible</TD></TR></TABLE>

Iceman 3" intake. Ive got a Ram air headlight, but I forgot it today.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slambedcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went to the dyno yesterday and got my AF tuned. That went well. Max Power was only 182 with 135 ft/lbs. I was on a mustang dyno w/ 50" drums. I know they read low, but the car feels like its way too low.

Setup:
USDM B18C5
81.5mm 11.5:1 JE's
Pro1s
Pro Gears
310's
SMSP Header
2.5" exhaust
Skunk2 Intake mani
ICEMAN CAI
Stock head

I went to the track on 22's. Leaving the line @ 6k. with 12 psi in slicks. bogged
r/t .094
60' 1.9
1/8th 8.72
mph 79.70
1/4 13.79
mph 95.49

I lost my second pass slip but I left @ 6600 and it still fell on its face at the line and was 13.9 @ 95

Third pass I bumped the FTL up to 7500 and left hard. The car stayed up and didnt flatten out but it didnt run well at all.
r/t .130
60' 1.85
1/8th 5.64
mph 77.88
1/4 13.85
mph 97.74

Im very confused about this setup. Ive been racing since 2003 and all of these passes felt fast, but they werent.

The only thing that I can think thats holding me back right now is not having a PCV system and the nipples on the back of the block are looped since im waiting on my catch can to get welded up.

Is there anythign else that could be holding me up? Could it be the tune?

Any and all input would be great. Thanks!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds weird, although for some low numbers you are running good times, To show dyno numbers dont mean everything.. for that amount your putting down some good track numbers..
D-rob had a 190whp civic with a semi built ls/vtec and he was running around 13.1
I believe your exhaust is holding you back.. as its not a "true" 2.5'' Measure it, it'll come out 2.38''
Also i believe possible your "iceman" is another reason.. Ditch it, get a REAL 3'' short ram intake.
your 60's are "ok" but i can usually get 2.0 and 1.9's outta my shitty street tires.. maybe the track isn't prepped well.
Degree on the pro1's? Did you degree them in?
Tune, lets see some sheets, AFR? and what type of dyno.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sounds weird, although for some low numbers you are running good times, To show dyno numbers dont mean everything.. for that amount your putting down some good track numbers..
D-rob had a 190whp civic with a semi built ls/vtec and he was running around 13.1
I believe your exhaust is holding you back.. as its not a "true" 2.5'' Measure it, it'll come out 2.38''
Also i believe possible your "iceman" is another reason.. Ditch it, get a REAL 3'' short ram intake.
your 60's are "ok" but i can usually get 2.0 and 1.9's outta my shitty street tires.. maybe the track isn't prepped well.
Degree on the pro1's? Did you degree them in?
Tune, lets see some sheets, AFR? and what type of dyno.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mustang Dyno. Track is prepped fine. The car just doesnt wanna come out. I used to cut 1.70s on these slicks with my stock LS boosted Hatch. The exhaust is a true 2.5" OD Thermal R&D With a 2.5" test pipe. I have another cheapie 3" intake. Ide rather leave the Iceman on there since Im gonna run the ramair headlight next week. Cams are NOT degreed. I made the most power @ 0/0. Im gonna work on degreeing them this week.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slambedcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Mustang Dyno. Track is prepped fine. The car just doesnt wanna come out. I used to cut 1.70s on these slicks with my stock LS boosted Hatch. The exhaust is a true 2.5" OD Thermal R&D With a 2.5" test pipe. I have another cheapie 3" intake. Ide rather leave the Iceman on there since Im gonna run the ramair headlight next week. Cams are NOT degreed. I made the most power @ 0/0. Im gonna work on degreeing them this week.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well
1) Mustang dyno is your problem if its a ball swinging issue Just add around 17% to your numbers and thats what you should make on a dynojet..

2) Degreeing, as in degree wheel, did you do that or no? "When" you installed the cams for the first time.

3) Pro cams do NOT make the most power at 0/0 Contact Donf for some ideas on this..but pro cams need to be moved around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well
1) Mustang dyno is your problem if its a ball swinging issue Just add around 17% to your numbers and thats what you should make on a dynojet..

2) Degreeing, as in degree wheel, did you do that or no? "When" you installed the cams for the first time.

3) Pro cams do NOT make the most power at 0/0 Contact Donf for some ideas on this..but pro cams need to be moved around.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know the the Mustang Dyno doesnt read like the dynojet.

I know what degreeing is lol. No I didnt degree them. Ive gotta machine shop right next door to my house and Im gonna swing over there tomorrow and grab his wheel and degree them.

My head and block have both been milled. And personally, I dont thing that the dyno lied. When I move them around mos of the time I only make LOW 170s. I did do 14 pulls on the dyno in 2 hours.

 

What management are you on?
I recently tuned a similar setup but with an ITR header and made more power than that. (no offense)
But we did degree the cams before tuning. I also use a mustang dyno. I would say degree the cams and retune. It should make a world of difference. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

 

outta curiousity , i understand that degreeing cams are very important and that alot of the bigger cams come with specs for you to degree with. But in the end , degreeing a cam with a degree wheel is still jus moving the cams around to sync it correctly with the crank. wouldnt moving around the cam gears at one point reach that same spot on the dyno ? Or it wouldnt because the degree wheel is much more accurate and the cam gears would move too much ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike@TSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What management are you on?
I recently tuned a similar setup but with an ITR header and made more power than that. (no offense)
But we did degree the cams before tuning. I also use a mustang dyno. I would say degree the cams and retune. It should make a world of difference. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.</TD></TR></TABLE>

crome pro. Im gonna degree the cams tuesday.

 

Moving the gears will yield more power, the only reason they haven't is because the cams weren't degreed in.. and its harder to find a good combo
Like for instances, a pro2 cam will not be set to +5/-5 thats almost an impossible combo because of the lift and ramp and duration..

0/0 is not the optium setting i told you pm DONF for some help.. he will be able to shed some more light on the situation... he's helped me a few times with the cams.
Look into ROCKET(master of the universe) or clean rice

Crome pro is fine too... I use that to tune everyone.
I use eCtune on my person car tho.

 

Damn man, Although the traps look to be right for the power level.

 

this car has been 12.6s on the SAME chassis with less compression, and s2s2's

 

Dude they came out with this new mod................ It's called Driver

 

Its on a Mustang dyno so numbers will be lower. Doesn't matter anyways.

One more compression point than stock (did you actually cc to check your CR?), stock head, cams, header, stock IM. Were you expecting 200whp?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its on a Mustang dyno so numbers will be lower. Doesn't matter anyways.

One more compression point than stock (did you actually cc to check your CR?), stock head, cams, header, stock IM. Were you expecting 200whp?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im not normally an *******... but did you really not read anything at all?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slambedcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im not normally an *******... but did you really not read anything at all?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I did.

You have JE 11.5:1 pistons. You did not state what your compression ratio is. You have a stock head (milling it is not porting or a valve job). You have a stock IM (Skunk2 is a copy of the ITR, if you have the Pro series IM, please say so).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes I did.

You have JE 11.5:1 pistons. You did not state what your compression ratio is. You have a stock head (milling it is not porting or a valve job). You have a stock IM (Skunk2 is a copy of the ITR, if you have the Pro series IM, please say so).

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive not CC'ed anything to check ACTUAL CR. Im well aware that milling isnt porting or a valve job. Its the first gen S2 manifold. This car put down 201@ the wheels and went 12.6 @ 105 with s2s2s and less compression (bigger headgasket)

 

I don't see the problem. CR is unknown, head is stock, IM stock. So you have an 11-12.5:1 stock C5 with Pro1 cams and an SMSP header making 182/135 on a Mustang dyno...

Degree the cams in then play with the tuning to get the power more suitable to your RPM range after shifting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't see the problem. CR is unknown, head is stock, IM stock. So you have an 11-12.5:1 stock C5 with Pro1 cams and an SMSP header making 182/135 on a Mustang dyno...

Degree the cams in then play with the tuning to get the power more suitable to your RPM range after shifting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im pretty sure its right around 12.0:1. Im gonna degree the cams tomorrow and go from there. I also need a new throttle body as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Degree the cams in then play with the tuning to get the power more suitable to your RPM range after shifting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2, will most likely help your power issues out.
If need be call S2 for their recomendation, they were very helpful to my friend with degreeing his PRO 2's. Generally their recommended settings work best.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mattb16teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
X2, will most likely help your power issues out.
If need be call S2 for their recomendation, they were very helpful to my friend with degreeing his PRO 2's. Generally their recommended settings work best. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did just that and my car wouldnt idle at all. Im sure it was my fault tho. Ill get it figured out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slambedcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I did just that and my car wouldnt idle at all. Im sure it was my fault tho. Ill get it figured out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you adjust the ign timing and fuel via ems?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did you adjust the ign timing and fuel via ems?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i fiddled with it a little bit in crome.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slambedcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i fiddled with it a little bit in crome. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you mill the head?