lower balljoint WON"T come out
spent about all afternoon on it too. My usual method is with a two gear puller and a bandy tie to keep the jaws on the ledge. tightened it harder than ever and blow torch heated the control arm hotter than ever and nothing. Tried everything else too, like wedged a long barbell bar in there and pryed, crow bar, air hammer, real hammer, car jack, three gear puller...no budge. The other side popped right off.
I'm thinking of just pulling my engine anyway and pulling the axel out that way. Any other tricks tho, it would suck to pull off the whole suspension so i can take the sledge to it out back.
d
I'm thinking of just pulling my engine anyway and pulling the axel out that way. Any other tricks tho, it would suck to pull off the whole suspension so i can take the sledge to it out back.
d
lol
just take off the LCA and leave it attached to the lower ball joint. just make sure you secure the lcs to somthing so it isnt hanging from the ball joint.
then just pull the hub away from the axle.
just take off the LCA and leave it attached to the lower ball joint. just make sure you secure the lcs to somthing so it isnt hanging from the ball joint.
then just pull the hub away from the axle.
ya, i started to take off the LCA, then got stuck on some bolts that i couldn't get my breaker bar around then i got side tracked with another bright idea.
I think i'll try fartsrocket's plan first, then go with your plan.
thanks dudes,
d
I think i'll try fartsrocket's plan first, then go with your plan.
thanks dudes,
d
sorry about that, left over frustration from spending 4 HOURS this aft on ONE BOLT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Only to LOSE the battle....could have had the b20 in by NOW
sorry about that, left over frustration from spending 4 HOURS this aft on ONE BOLT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Only to LOSE the battle....could have had the b20 in by NOW
thats how we got mine off.
lots of wd40 should help
its probably rusted to high hell.
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the "nut" is off, its just the pressed fit bolt that won't come out mister. The impact wrench won'ta fix it.
A pickle fork? Not yet, not yet. An option, but that woulk mean tuesday and money money.
A pickle fork? Not yet, not yet. An option, but that woulk mean tuesday and money money.
have you put some oil on it ? if not try some wd40 or similar and let it soak then try prying down with a prybar while someone whacks it (the lower joint on the lca) with a bfh.
no jack and hammer yet, rocketman, tomorrow when i'm fresh and chipper
nice one Auston Minime, the oil. I was kicking myself today (no...yesterday) thati forgot to pick up some more oil when i had a car to drive. All i have is some silicone lubricant spray...?? It hasn't done "stink" all. Will get some oil tomorrow and i'm confident that all these blessings will help me pop that badboy out like a fartrocket
d
have you put some oil on it ? if not try some wd40 or similar and let it soak then try prying down with a prybar while someone whacks it (the lower joint on the lca) with a bfh.
d
get a ball joint separater (pickle fork), punch it in there good so it stays w/o you having to hold it, then take a sledge hammer to it. it'll tear the boot but it'll get it out.
jacl that side of the car up, get some bricks stack them about 2 or 3 high right under neath the little piece of metal that sticks through, put a piece of sheet metal on that, than lower the car onto the bricks. Your using the cars weight to ur advantage.
jacl that side of the car up, get some bricks stack them about 2 or 3 high right under neath the little piece of metal that sticks through, put a piece of sheet metal on that, than lower the car onto the bricks. Your using the cars weight to ur advantage.
- i successfully got hte bit out, but destroyed its thread in hte process, leave a nut (not a castle nut) on the end...
t...
I once used an air hammer on the end of the bolt (different car) and bent the bolt and widened it at the same time. It was a real bugger to fix that one...
I don't have much car weight anymore to try this new trick guys. I took the engine out already. The balljoint is still in place and the axel is hanging in there too. Just jacked the engine up some and popped the axel out from the engine side when i had the slack.
I first tried the jack and hammer trick that barnrocket suggested but it didn't workout. I then tried to take the whole LCA but the bolts are siezed on enough so that my cheap sockets start to splay.
Hopefully i won't have to put it back in that same way, tho, 'cause i'm borrowing a pitman arm puller tomorrow, whatever that is...
All told i've spent a good 7-8 hours on just that balljoint bolt. It took 2 days to get the engine out as a result
. But its out and i finally have my 2000lbs car- full interior!!
I don't have much car weight anymore to try this new trick guys. I took the engine out already. The balljoint is still in place and the axel is hanging in there too. Just jacked the engine up some and popped the axel out from the engine side when i had the slack.
I first tried the jack and hammer trick that barnrocket suggested but it didn't workout. I then tried to take the whole LCA but the bolts are siezed on enough so that my cheap sockets start to splay.
Hopefully i won't have to put it back in that same way, tho, 'cause i'm borrowing a pitman arm puller tomorrow, whatever that is...
All told i've spent a good 7-8 hours on just that balljoint bolt. It took 2 days to get the engine out as a result
. But its out and i finally have my 2000lbs car- full interior!!
ya this is the right side, dont' think i've ever had this one off before, took the left side off a while back to do the alternator tho. I think it was a real bugger then too, but not like this. Whoever did my cv boots (waaay back) torked them back on like mad.
well, i learned somthing about the quality and design of pullers tonight.
I'm not sure if it was a putman puller, but i borrowed this heavier duty one and it took no more than 5 minutes to get it off. I think the oil i sprayed in there (rust check brand) may have soaked in tho, 'cause i didn't put near as much twist on it this time.
This 2 jaw puller has a single pivot between the two jaws right in line with the screw bolt. This is way better than the multi pivot "wide base" pullers because it will pull the clampers in as it tightens instead of OUT like the wide based ones with extra joints that just lend to crookedness.
did least part of that make sense?
I'm not sure if it was a putman puller, but i borrowed this heavier duty one and it took no more than 5 minutes to get it off. I think the oil i sprayed in there (rust check brand) may have soaked in tho, 'cause i didn't put near as much twist on it this time.
This 2 jaw puller has a single pivot between the two jaws right in line with the screw bolt. This is way better than the multi pivot "wide base" pullers because it will pull the clampers in as it tightens instead of OUT like the wide based ones with extra joints that just lend to crookedness.
did least part of that make sense?
maaate! good work!
(i think that tool is called a pully puller...at least down-under)
did it just go "POP"
and you were like - WOW!
they arent all ease and simplicity though, i have struggled a many hour with a cheap one
now, on with the show!!!
t..
(i think that tool is called a pully puller...at least down-under)
did it just go "POP"
and you were like - WOW!
they arent all ease and simplicity though, i have struggled a many hour with a cheap one
now, on with the show!!!
t..
it popped soo hard and loud that i thought i broke either the pulley or the LCA.
Man tho, 8 hours spent on 5 minutes work (if i had had the right tool)
Man tho, 8 hours spent on 5 minutes work (if i had had the right tool)
I usually just pull the front inside bolt on the lower control arm. Then it will swing to whatever angle you need if the strut is out. The last time I busted a ball joint apart to pull an axle I was a minor. 6 years. My trick works for me everytime, garrunteed.


