A/C ?????
1991 Teal Civic DX hatch
My A/C is not blowing cold and here's what my mechanic recommended:
He found the AC system had no charge due to leaks from a few O rings. He replaced the O rings, charged the system, but when he checked the system, the high side pressure spiked and blew the pressure valve on the compressor. There's debris in the lines and he recommends replacing the AC compressor, receiver dryer, expansion valve and flushing the AC lines. Price for parts and labor = $804.24 Btw, the same mechanic convert the OEM system with the new atmosphere-friendly stuff about 2 years ago.
Where can I buy a good used compressor so I only have to pay for the labor? Is it as easy as pulling one from a Pic-n-Pull yard? I have a strict budget right now so I'd really appreciate any feedback. Thanks, EFers.
My A/C is not blowing cold and here's what my mechanic recommended:
He found the AC system had no charge due to leaks from a few O rings. He replaced the O rings, charged the system, but when he checked the system, the high side pressure spiked and blew the pressure valve on the compressor. There's debris in the lines and he recommends replacing the AC compressor, receiver dryer, expansion valve and flushing the AC lines. Price for parts and labor = $804.24 Btw, the same mechanic convert the OEM system with the new atmosphere-friendly stuff about 2 years ago.
Where can I buy a good used compressor so I only have to pay for the labor? Is it as easy as pulling one from a Pic-n-Pull yard? I have a strict budget right now so I'd really appreciate any feedback. Thanks, EFers.
You should be able to just replace the high pressure relief valve. Can order from any OEM honda place. It is just a pipe plug style relief, unscrew the old and screw in the new. Believe there is a plastic cover in the way of replacing, so compressor unmounting is required (if i remember right). Replace the drier also. Then put system into a deep vacuum. Then recharge with refrigerant and oil.
Sounds to me like the 'mechanic' did not put the system into a vacuum before adding the new refrigerant. This is a big no-no and would gurantee blowing the relief valve quite quickly, the noncondensibles of air and moisture would make the head pressure sky rocket. You're lucky the relief blew. Not to mention it is dangerous, basically a pipe bomb at this point. It also promotes turning the oil in the system into acid (this acid (or atleast the fumes from burning this acid) would have extremely similar characteristics to Mustard Gas)
If he did not flush and change the compressor oil when changing over to 134a, then there is a slim chance that is what caused the problem, if the compressor locked up, but it is unlikely. Both refrigerants are suppose to use very dissimilar oils. It can be argued it is better to use the 22 oil in the 134a retrofit, as the 134a oil does not tolerate the residues from the 22 (such as higher levels of chlorides).
134A runs at a slightly lower pressures than r-22, so the refrigerant change over is not the problem; directly.
The receiver dryer should have been changed out the first time it was converted, but sounds like the job was flim-flammed, so unlikely that happened either.
I wouldn't replace the hoses unless there is a recurrent leak, or you just want to.
Only reason to change out the expansion device would be if Honda makes an r-22 to 134a conversion expansion device... would make it control superheat better (it will cool better and be more efficient). Or if it is leaking.
Sounds to me like the 'mechanic' did not put the system into a vacuum before adding the new refrigerant. This is a big no-no and would gurantee blowing the relief valve quite quickly, the noncondensibles of air and moisture would make the head pressure sky rocket. You're lucky the relief blew. Not to mention it is dangerous, basically a pipe bomb at this point. It also promotes turning the oil in the system into acid (this acid (or atleast the fumes from burning this acid) would have extremely similar characteristics to Mustard Gas)
If he did not flush and change the compressor oil when changing over to 134a, then there is a slim chance that is what caused the problem, if the compressor locked up, but it is unlikely. Both refrigerants are suppose to use very dissimilar oils. It can be argued it is better to use the 22 oil in the 134a retrofit, as the 134a oil does not tolerate the residues from the 22 (such as higher levels of chlorides).
134A runs at a slightly lower pressures than r-22, so the refrigerant change over is not the problem; directly.
The receiver dryer should have been changed out the first time it was converted, but sounds like the job was flim-flammed, so unlikely that happened either.
I wouldn't replace the hoses unless there is a recurrent leak, or you just want to.
Only reason to change out the expansion device would be if Honda makes an r-22 to 134a conversion expansion device... would make it control superheat better (it will cool better and be more efficient). Or if it is leaking.
Let me get this right. You're saying, my mechanic did me no favor about 2 years ago when he changed the AC to the atmosphere-friendly system, in that, he did a lousy job, and that's why my AC, after only 2 years was not blowing cold? It's funny 'cause his orignal estimate was around $200 for recharging the system. Later that day, he called and told me that I need a new compressor and the cost will be $800. I told him to put everything back 'cause I can't afford it and he did. I just finished changing the timing belt, water pump, belts and gasket seals, so is this something I can do myself or is it safer to take it to a AC repair shop? Thanks alot for your help.
you could source all of the parts you need, but without access to a refrigerant recovery machine that's capable of drawing your system into a vacuum for at least 30 min, it would be pointless. additionally, if you do buy any new a/c components...leave all the plugs on them until you're ready to install/vacuum/recharge. a/c no likey moisture.
Ehhh, if it ran fine for 2 years then it's not his fault at all.
I thought you said "He replaced the O rings, charged the system, but when he checked the system, the high side pressure spiked and blew the pressure valve on the compressor." so i'm a bit confused.
Did you a big favor switching to 134a... saved you loads of money (r-12 is verrry expensive now).
But if he made a repair, then charged it, then it blew the plug... it's his fault.
He should have stopped the compressor when he saw the pressure spiking.
Actually.... i'd have to check the schematic, but there should be some sort of 'high pressure cutout switch' that would have disabled the compressor before it blew the plug. I'd check into getting a new cutout switch if i were you... or installing an aftermarket one.
Take it to a reputable a/c repair facility... or atleast a chain, so they can pay to fix it when they screw it up. But yah, it's not going to be inexpensive. Personally i'd put a new relief plug in the compressor (i'd even make it look dirty), then bring it back; and act completely clueless as to why it is not working. Any other components, ESPecialLY the drier... don't install until just before pulling a vacuum and charging.
Or i'd bring it back to the first mechanic, tell him he screwed it up, and insist he pay to fix it.
gl
I thought you said "He replaced the O rings, charged the system, but when he checked the system, the high side pressure spiked and blew the pressure valve on the compressor." so i'm a bit confused.
Did you a big favor switching to 134a... saved you loads of money (r-12 is verrry expensive now).
But if he made a repair, then charged it, then it blew the plug... it's his fault.
He should have stopped the compressor when he saw the pressure spiking.
Actually.... i'd have to check the schematic, but there should be some sort of 'high pressure cutout switch' that would have disabled the compressor before it blew the plug. I'd check into getting a new cutout switch if i were you... or installing an aftermarket one.
Take it to a reputable a/c repair facility... or atleast a chain, so they can pay to fix it when they screw it up. But yah, it's not going to be inexpensive. Personally i'd put a new relief plug in the compressor (i'd even make it look dirty), then bring it back; and act completely clueless as to why it is not working. Any other components, ESPecialLY the drier... don't install until just before pulling a vacuum and charging.
Or i'd bring it back to the first mechanic, tell him he screwed it up, and insist he pay to fix it.
gl
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